Seiko 7005-2000

[BUSAKAZ]

Hi all, does anyone know how to remove the main spring out of the barrel as I need to replace it.

thanks kaz

[rogart63]

Yepp. You need a sharp knife. Like a breakable knife?

 

Edited March 17, 2017 by rogart63

[BUSAKAZ]

1 hour ago, rogart63 said:

Yepp. You need a sharp knife. Like a breakable knife?

 

Thanks rogart63 I'm looking forward to this then, NOT

i must say this forum is the best why bother going on others,the chaps are so helpful, knowledge of 1000 years oldhippy has most of them 

[jdm]

On 3/17/2017 at 4:31 PM, BUSAKAZ said:

Hi all, does anyone know how to remove the main spring out of the barrel as I need to replace it.

Please tell, how do you know that you need to replace the mainspring? It has broken?

[BUSAKAZ]

1 hour ago, jdm said:

Please tell, how do you know that you need to replace the mainspring? It has broken?

I just wanted to check that it wasn't broken in fact it looks pretty clean no gunge inside a dog to open though.

[jdm]

Just now, BUSAKAZ said:

I just wanted to check that it wasn't broken in fact it looks pretty clean no gunge inside a dog to open though.

That's because Seiko barrels are not meant to be opened or the mainspring replace, and if not broken are better left alone.

[BUSAKAZ]

33 minutes ago, jdm said:

That's because Seiko barrels are not meant to be opened or the mainspring replace, and if not broken are better left alone.

Yes but you still have to check them through 

[jdm]

Just now, BUSAKAZ said:

Yes but you still have to check them through 

Actually there are better ways, first is looking at the timegrapher amplitude and pattern.

 

[BUSAKAZ]

18 hours ago, jdm said:

Actually there are better ways, first is looking at the timegrapher amplitude and pattern.

 

The watch wasn't working elts I would have done that first.

[jdm]

44 minutes ago, BUSAKAZ said:

The watch wasn't working elts I would have done that first.

To check if barrell / mainspring are OK just remove the pallet fork and click. With one or two turns of the ratchet, the train must spin fast. No need to open the barrel.

[Pip]

To check if barrell / mainspring are OK just remove the pallet fork and click. With one or two turns of the ratchet, the train must spin fast. No need to open the barrel.

Is that just newer models or something? In my limited tinkering I've opened a few barrels up to have a look, and am currently hunting down a mainspring winder so that I can get the mainspring out and clean and oil them and put them back without knackering them! I know Seiko don't recommend it but for a vintage piece I had kind of gathered that it was part of doing a proper service.

 

*Edit: the 7005 is not a new movement so I'm honestly interested to hear what the verdict is

[emoji848]

 

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[jdm]

Just now, Pip said:

Is that just newer models or something? In my limited tinkering I've opened a few barrels up to have a look, and am currently hunting down a mainspring winder so that I can get the mainspring out and clean and oil them and put them back without knackering them! I know Seiko don't recommend it but for a vintage piece I had kind of gathered that it was part of doing a proper service.

I believe Seiko has been using "sealed for life" barrels since many decades. Beside that is debatable if mainsprings needs to be greased (certainly not oiled), that applies to mov.ts with barrels and mainsprings designed to be opened and replaced. Seiko doesn't fall into this category. You will also have trouble finding a winder that fits well with Seiko mainsprings.

[Pip]

I believe Seiko has been using "sealed for life" barrels since many decades. Beside that is debatable if mainsprings needs to be greased (certainly not oiled), that applies to mov.ts with barrels and mainsprings designed to be opened and replaced. Seiko doesn't fall into this category. You will also have trouble finding a winder that fits well with Seiko mainsprings.

Standard thing that I've seen is (and what I'm planning to do):
Open barrel and remove mainspring, clean in some (? Can't recall) in some watchmakers paper and clean barrel and arbor in US. Put a dab of graphite grease on barrel wall. Use Bergeon No.7 (10.8mm I think?) winder, most are RH but some movements are LH and replace ms and arbor in barrel. Put three drops of (?) on top of ms, seal barrel and Bob's your Auntie's live in lover.

I would guess that this is fairly common practice with other movements too?


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[jdm]

1 minute ago, Pip said:

I would guess that this is fairly common practice with other movements too?

That's the point exactly, what you would do with other movements  is not needed with sealed Seiko barrels, you don't gain anything messing with them. If you are looking to address a real problem and a way to increase amplitude on low ends Seiko look at the non-jeweled barrel bushings (just holes in the plates) which gets ovali with time.

[BUSAKAZ]

1 hour ago, Pip said:

the 7005 is not a new movement so I'm honestly interested to hear what the verdict is

Pip I will let you know, I just think not checking the mainspring is like doing a service on a car and not changing the oil, maybe mark could put us right......

[Geo]

If you're not cannot for any reason source a new sealed replacement barrel as recommended by Seiko, open it up, clean it out, replace the mainspring if you can source one, then luricate  and reassemble the barrel.  As alluded to above, I would not refurbish a car engine and run it, with old contaminated oil when it could have been changed.

[BUSAKAZ]

17 minutes ago, Geo said:

If you're not cannot for any reason source a new sealed replacement barrel as recommended by Seiko, open it up, clean it out, replace the mainspring if you can source one, then luricate  and reassemble the barrel.  As alluded to above, I would not refurbish a car engine and run it, with old contaminated oil when it could have been changed.

Thanks Geo I thought I was going mad

[jdm]

36 minutes ago, Geo said:

If you're not cannot for any reason source a new sealed replacement barrel as recommended by Seiko, open it up, clean it out, replace the mainspring if you can source one, then luricate  and reassemble the barrel.

But in 99% of the cases that's not needed with sealed Seiko barrels, and if done with bare hands or even gloves that will just introduce debris into it. I speak from the direct experience of many hours and tries backed up by timegrapher testing. If a entry level Seiko doesn't run good, be reassured it's not the mainspring fault.

[Geo]

1 hour ago, BUSAKAZ said:

Pip I will let you know, I just think not checking the mainspring is like doing a service on a car and not changing the oil, maybe mark could put us right......

Have a read of this thread Kaz and make up your own mind.

 

[BUSAKAZ]

6 minutes ago, Geo said:

Have a read of this thread Kaz and make up your own mind.

 

Thanks Geo, looks like jdm has been down this road already and mark said you need to open them to check  

[rogart63]

A barrel with mainspring from the newer 7s26 would work fine if you don't want to take the mainspring out? 

 

[BUSAKAZ]

12 minutes ago, rogart63 said:

A barrel with mainspring from the newer 7s26 would work fine if you don't want to take the mainspring out? 

 

Thanks, it looks ok visually I'm going to put it together tomorrow and give it a whirl....

[jdm]

Christan also replaces 7S26 MS
http://watchguy.co.uk/service-seiko-7s26-0200-scuba-divers-watch/

In that case he restored amplitude and pattern. But when I tried the same or even a brand new barrel, it didn't help.  Of course, there is an ocean of difference between respective abilities.