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Changing cannon pinion height ETA 2824

italiansub

By italiansub
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italiansub Member

italiansub

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I'm trying to determine if I should try to tackle this myself, or send some movements to my watchsmith.

I've learned that the most intricate part of this job is changing the seconds wheel since it requires removing the train wheel bridge and winding mechanism.

I've watched a few videos, and what I've seen is the most videos show disassembly of more than these two parts -- is there a reason NOT to simply remove in the following steps:

Remove Auto winding mechanism ... then...

Let down power from mainspring ... then...

Remove ratchet wheel...then

Remove train wheel bridge...then

Remove / replace seconds wheel...then

Re-assemble in reverse order

Have I missed anything? Is the only thing to be careful of the seating of the wheels and gears upon reassembly?

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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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1 hour ago, italiansub said:

 

I'm trying to determine if I should try to tackle this myself, or send some movements to my watchsmith.

I've learned that the most intricate part of this job is changing the seconds wheel since it requires removing the train wheel bridge and winding mechanism.

Yes, that is the logic says. However here's will also read things as "don't do it yourself", and "at the time you work on a movement, it is mandatory that you take it completely apart, clean, inspect and lubricate". Personally, I think this kind of statemented should be taken as face value, especially when they come as canned, repetitive advice that does not even try to get into the specific of the question.

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italiansub Member

italiansub

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Yes, that is the logic says. However here's will also read things as "don't do it yourself", and "at the time you work on a movement, it is mandatory that you take it completely apart, clean, inspect and lubricate". Personally, I think this kind of statemented should be taken as face value, especially when they come as canned, repetitive advice that does not even try to get into the specific of the question.




So...these are brand new movements from reputable suppliers that I just wish to change to H4.

What's the worst that can happen if I try it and things don't work out?? Send to a watchsmith and pay for the full service??

I guess I'm asking...will I break anything that I'm not considering...I know I've tried to force gears before and damaged those...you live and learn. Is there anything any more sensitive with this project?


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jdm Distinguished Member

jdm

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Just now, italiansub said:

So...these are brand new movements from reputable suppliers that I just wish to change to H4.
What's the worst that can happen if I try it and things don't work out?? Send to a watchsmith and pay for the full service??
I guess I'm asking...will I break anything that I'm not considering...I know I've tried to force gears before and damaged those...you live and learn. Is there anything any more sensitive with this project?

There is nothing special in what you need to do. If you believe you have learned how to handle small parts, etc, go ahead. If you don't feel confident, don't. 

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italiansub Member

italiansub

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There is nothing special in what you need to do. If you believe you have learned how to handle small parts, etc, go ahead. If you don't feel confident, don't. 



Handling small parts...not usually a strong suit of mine ;) but I will give it a shot with a low end movement


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italiansub Member

italiansub

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New ETA 28XX movements come with the generic H2, but H4 parts are available to convert it.



Is there any source of these stock with H4? Seems like a big cost to buy the parts...~$35 and pay to have it changed ~ $75...I'd be willing to pay a bit of premium to have it come with these. Thanks


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italiansub Member

italiansub

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Looking over more tutorials for tearing down the movement -- what I see is that much more than the autowind bridge and train wheel bridge are being removed to reveal the seconds wheels.

For instance....the balance wheel is taken out. The barrel bridge is removed. The mainspring is removed...it seems like the train wheel bridge is the last thing to be removed.

Do I need to follow this order to replace the seconds wheel?


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italiansub Member

italiansub

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Yes, you also need to remove the ratchet wheel to extract the fourth wheel.




Let me see if I follow....remove the winding bridge, ratchet wheel, and then go for the train wheel bridge? No need to remove the balance wheel....barrel bridge...etc?




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SSTEEL Distinguished Member

SSTEEL

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I find it's best to remove the balance e, and pallet fork, as this helps when reassembling, allowing you to check the power reserve after a gentle wind whilst refitting the train bridge.

Of course, once you have put the H4 seconds wheel in place, you can refit the ratchet wheel.

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italiansub Member

italiansub

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Well...I decided to try it out on a movement that had some other issues...so I wouldn't feel horrible if I fouled it up.

The parts came out easily, but I can see the issue with not taking out the balance and barrel is that you're re-assembling the train wheels and bridge "blind"...can see if thing are seated in the jewels and am kind of guessing as I tighten everything down.

I figure I'll take it apart and re-assemble a few times before moving on to the actual H4 swap. Can't get hurt to practice this...


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