Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A friend of mine asked if i want to make a stem for him. I have improved my hardware and wanted to try so happily accepted :)

Not in the Dremel now. Here the pulley wheel is serving as a dividing plate with 4 holes making sure that the rectangle cross-section will be perfect. Turning with help of a microscope, no loupe at all. 

2016-10-07_15_18_06.jpeg

2016-10-07_17_49_00.jpeg

A thin glass strip is hot glued on the "T-rest" which has two purpose. The file is sliding on it easily and it is making sure that the sides will be parallel.

2016-10-07_17_49_08.jpeg

2016-10-08_14_59_38.jpeg

Still a lot to file down.

The workpiece is a spoke of a Chehoslovak Favorit road racer. Even tungsten carbide is softer if hardened.

  • Like 5
Posted
2 hours ago, nsg1tausend01 said:

Wow , very nice.
Congrats on your skills and know how.
Regards
Robt


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Skill and know how? :(    :) 

Snapshot_20161010.PNG

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Finaly i got something similar to a winding stem.... for the 6th try.... 

20161016_142231.jpeg

M1.2 thread done. The stem here was turned down to 1.15mm to make sure it wont break while tapping. 

20161017_181000.jpeg

After heated to red and dropped in brine. It is so hard and brittle, i can hear it whizzling near my ear :)

20161017_191123.jpeg

Using my special top quality heating pan

20161017_192510.jpeg

Annealed. Not as shiny like on pictures one can find on pro-watchmaker school sites, but the color tells me the temperature and that is important.

20161017_192910.jpeg

 And the best thing is, i dont had the movement. So there might be a big surprise for the guy i made it if it wont work :)

Edited by szbalogh
Posted (edited)
On 2016. 10. 18. at 0:00 AM, MilTimeCan said:

I am in awe.

Wow, I worked on a lot of plastic model aircraft parts in my younger days, but I have never seen anything like this. 

Sir, you are a pro !

Not a pro for sure :) Just so excited while discovering this new watchmaking world. For an experienced watchmaker this is an every day job :) And i am sure i could make it better. For example if i had a glass fiber scratch brush, then the bluing would be better. Also i am not satisfied with the setting lever slot.The rectangular edges here are not perfect. I will have to grind a better graver to cut this type of slots.

Made a video of this project, threading included.

 

Edited by szbalogh
  • Like 5
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...