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Posted

I read all sorts of views of wether to remove all the jewels of a watch movement to clean them, or just the balance jewels.

Can you shed some light on this?

Thanks

Posted
Just now, TimFitz said:

I read all sorts of views of wether to remove all the jewels of a watch movement to clean them, or just the balance jewels.

Can you point to the "views" that says to remove pressed in jewels? That makes zero sense.

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Posted
7 minutes ago, jdm said:

Can you point to the "views" that says to remove pressed in jewels? That makes zero sense.

I don't mean anyone on here on WRT.

On a couple of videos I have watched on youtube it was recommended

Posted
Just now, TimFitz said:

On a couple of videos I have watched on youtube it was recommended

Post the links so we can discuss these.

Posted
7 minutes ago, clockboy said:

The only jewels removed are cap jewels.  All other jewels remain in place unless changed because of damage.

That's what I thought, Thanks

Posted (edited)

100% agree with previous comments, only remove the cap and hole jewel assembly's, usually just the balance but occasionally the escape wheel too.

Edited by Brian3
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Posted (edited)

Removing any of the friction fitted jewels from the mainplate or bridges is just monkey business madness..........you'd have to fix all of the endshakes!!

Edited by Brian3
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Posted

The friction fitted jewels will clean perfectly well left in place, just remember to clean them out with peg wood before going thru the cleaning cycle.

Brian

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    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
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