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Limit Pocket Watch


oli

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Hi all
I have put together a couple of pics of a recent project. This was my first pocket watch. This is my first post in this section of the forum, so I feel slightly intimated by all the knowledge around me!


Limit was a British company, established in Lancashire in 1912. The 15 jewels movement in this watch was swiss made, and from my research I gathered that it was probably supplied by Thommen in Switzerland, and cased in the UK by Limit.


It turned out to be very easy to work on. My previous projects have all been wristwatches (mostly Seikos!), so the slightly larger diameter here definitely helped. It also turned out easy to put it back together.

Here is a summary of what I did with this watch, I hope you enjoy reading this! 

First the “before” picture – I bought the watch on an ebay auction for spares or repairs, not really knowing what to expect.

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Upon receipt of the watch, the first good surprise was that the watch was running after my first attempt at winding it. 

The mineral glass dial was very cloudy, so this needed to be addressed.


I also wanted to completely strip, clean and lubricate the movement.
Upon opening the case of the watch, the movement looked very grubby, with traces of heat having been applied to some parts of the movement in the past.

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 I am not too sure why this would have been done, perhaps to heat up Shellac for a repair of the balance jewel? Or to burn dust residue in the watch. I was quite puzzled by this because the marks are definitely not localised to one area of the movement.

 

I proceeded to strip the movement, no snags were encountered during disassembly.

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After a bit of manual cleaning, all the parts went in the ultrasonic machine for a good clean.

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I was not quite happy with the look of the visible parts of the movement after the Ultrasonic clean, so I gave some of them a polish, and back into the machine.
 I did not want to achieve a perfect result, but just wanted to make the movement look a bit more presentable. The superficial heat marks came out. Note I did not polish the balance cock as I did not want to interfere with anything there!

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I put the movement back together, and lubricated it. 

 By that point, I had received a new crystal from our favourite supplier. I would normally use my crystal press to push out the old crystal, but I did not have a suitable die for this diameter, so had to do this manually. With a bit of persuasion, the old crystal came out, but not without a minor injury (cut on my thumb from the bezel edge, it was quite **BLEEP**!) so I will definitely wear gloves next time!

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And here it is, the watch completely re-assembled. I did not do anything to the case as I like a bit of patina, I think it gives this watch character.

I put it on my timing machine, and with an accuracy of approx. 10sec/ day I am very happy with this, so will not do anything else to this one.

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I hope you found this interesting, comments welcome (positive, negative, or advice!)

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Wonderful job, oli, and a good watch to keep!

20 hours ago, szbalogh said:

Those burning? marks are really interesting. One of my pocket watches has also some under the balance. It would be great to know why someone is burning that place...

My take on it is probably a previous watchmaker had to deal with a broken screw or similar and used vissine which is normally boiled with the part under an alcohol lamb...or more into thinking about it, how about rust treatment? It tends to mark those parts like that....and I believe there is some old pitting on the plates from that....but my computer doesn't show the pictures well.

But, any other guess? I'm interested too.

Cheers,

Bob

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    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
    • thinking of where epilam should be removed did you know there was a patent that covers this? At least for the escapement I'm attaching it. GB1057607A-1 epilame.pdf
    • Back home...printing now.  Will report results
    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
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