Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I decided to update and recase a cheapo 6497 movement as my first real project and have made a newbie error.

 

The original watch had hour and minute hands only and the new dial I wanted required a seconds hand at 9 o'clock.  I ordered a new 4th wheel with extended pivot to mount the second hand on but it doesn't fit.  The new 4th wheel has different number of teeth. See pics.  The wheel on the left is the part ordered and the part on the right is the original.  (AND yes I realize the pivot is broken on the original.  Whoever set up this movement clipped the extended pivot off and the pivot broke trying to extricate it from the jewel)

So now the question is.....obviously the cheap Asian copies of the ETA movement don't use the same wheel train so how do I identify this movement and get the right wheel?

 

Your help greatly appreciated!

Eric

 

4th_wheel.jpg

6497_1.jpg

6497_2.jpg

Posted
2 hours ago, Tcarpilot said:

So now the question is.....obviously the cheap Asian copies of the ETA movement don't use the same wheel train so how do I identify this movement and get the right wheel?

There are no parts available for Chinese movements, or if there are it's unknown to the Western world how to get them. The movement is replaced or the watch just thrown away.

Posted

It looks like the new fourth wheel is for a 6497-1 which beats at 18000 bph.  The fourth wheel with the broken pivot looks like 6497-2 clone which beats at 21600 bph.  Not sure if the ETA 6497-2 wheel would be compatible or not.  May be better to buy a new movement and put that one in the parts drawer for future spares like JDM recommended.

Posted

I figured it must be something like this.  I am gonna start looking around for a actual ETA movement to finish this project.

 

Thanks for your quicks responses!

Eric

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Thanks for this post MikePilk, I just came across a similar problem with an Omega 1022.  The problem I had was the seconds pinion spring was bent out of shape and did not even engage with the wheel properly, so the seconds hand was not moving at all. (no power loss though :) I removed the automatic module so I could access the spring and work on it. Once I bent it back close to the right shape, I experienced the same problem you reported about power loss.  Many tweaks later, and the seconds hand is moving properly again, with amplitude back to good numbers again. Cheers
    • After cleaning up the pivots, I made bushes on the lathe. At this point I've pressed in 6 bushes (3 sets) and the wheels turn smooth. What I can also tell you, is that I'm not looking forward to final assembly. Getting the pivots aligned seems to get exponentially more difficult with each wheel that is added.
    • Islands are interesting places to live depending upon their size and other factors. This is a bigger island and it has a bridge to get there at least on one end. It's also big enough that you don't have to go someplace else to get things typically. It can be a problem if you get a job in Seattle though. Yes I've known of people who commuted from the island to Seattle for a job and I don't quite remember how many hours it took but it took a long time. So basically islands are nice if you don't have to leave very often.
    • Thanks @JohnR725! Everything you say makes a lot of sense and is encouraging to read.
    • isn't it nice to have a decent case open or when the case doesn't want to be opened? In the case of a Rolex watch that supposed to pass specific water resistant testing you probably do need to tighten the back down. But they shouldn't be tightened so much that they risk stripping the threads out. Then the other problem that comes up is the gaskets can start to disintegrate and then getting the back off can be quite a challenge unless you have a really good tool and perhaps some penetrating oil to loosen things up. Yes really nice case marking. When I was in school we were taught to mark the cases and  the American watch and clockmakers Institute even had a? So if you joined at one time they would give you an identification number. They were explaining or giving an example of if the watches ever found in you have a unique number they can perhaps figure out the history of the watch or identify the body it's attached to for instance not that that probably comes up that often. So you got a unique number and even made a special metal stamp that you can purchase. It wasn't a super big aggressive stamp but still it left a mark in the back of the case. Then I heard from people at work on Rolex watches they were using a felt pen indelible but later on they decided that was bad because apparently the ink could release  chemicals although it seems like once it's dry that shouldn't be an issue. Then of course today was nice is you can keep computer records sealed have to mark anything at all I personally find it's best to leave no reference behind that you were even there. Especially when you have a beautiful watch that has no markings at all and now it has your scribbling all over it not good typically if there is a typical and watch repair?  a lot of minor repairs you don't need to do a complete servicing. But beyond a certain point you're going to have to take apart a lot of stuff you're going to disrupt the lubrication even if it looks perfect right now and yes you might as well just go ahead the service the whole thing. also in a watch like this where a lot of things seem to be going on the complete service would be better then you'll know exactly where you stand versus dealing with unknown mysteries for prior repair.
×
×
  • Create New...