Jump to content

Technique For Glueing Crystals


Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

I would also like to see how this is done by others.  I recently installed a new crystal on my father's 30 year old Seiko with GS Hypo Cement.  During the cleaning of the crystal (after the cement had hardened) it popped out.  I recemented it 2 more times with the same results.  I asked a local watchmaker what he used and he told me to buy 330 Epoxy, which I did.  I was going to try it later today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would also like to see how this is done by others.  I recently installed a new crystal on my father's 30 year old Seiko with GS Hypo Cement.  During the cleaning of the crystal (after the cement had hardened) it popped out.  I recemented it 2 more times with the same results.  I asked a local watchmaker what he used and he told me to buy 330 Epoxy, which I did.  I was going to try it later today.

I used the 330 Epoxy a few hours ago to cement the new crystal (again).  I'll check it tomorrow to see if it holds.  Fingers crossed!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 5 minute epoxy which dries clear. This works with both mineral glasses and Perspex glasses and will last very well if the mix is correct. So you should be fine with the method you have chosen.

The hypo tube cement you mentioned earlier is useful for securing Perspex glasses but I prefer epoxy.

Hypo cement is excellent for securing dial chapters if they fall off as they so often do especially with seikos. So it is well worth keeping it around the workshop.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fitted an acrylic glass to a 1950's pocket watch about a year ago and it's fine, I used Araldite precision, I first took off the bezel from the watch case and cleaned it in cleaner, then I applied a thin bead of the cement to each surface with a fine needle while using an eyeglass, fitting the glass and leaving it slightly weighted for 24 hours to set. The cement formed a good bond and is invisible to the naked eye and only just visible through an eyeglass, hope this helps.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any epoxy resin that dries clear should do the trick. Araldite is just one brand, loctite is another and there are more. The one I have had consistently excellent results with over the years is actually made by Seiko. I have been using this since around 1988 if memory serves me.

So it's Seiko S-310 adhesive. It should be available in the US, at one time it was obsolete but they started making it again according to my supplier.

I found this website sells it but I never dealt with that company (as I am in the UK)

http://www.startimesupply.com/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=G12-0310

It takes longer to dry but is very strong. Let it dry overnight and it will be fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used the 330 Epoxy a few hours ago to cement the new crystal (again).  I'll check it tomorrow to see if it holds.  Fingers crossed!

The 330 Epoxy seems to have done the trick!  It held nicely and dried clear.  Now I need to reinstall the movement and finish the job so my dad can have it in time for Christmas!

post-38-0-60423400-1386901362_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I would try the vapour treatment very simple just a simmering pot of the stuff and jewels bluetacked ( not whitetacked this time, you still haven't said if I'm forgiven yet 🙂 ) to the underside of the lid. You're now gonna tell me that stearic acid can be highly explosive above 90° C 🤣
    • I guess it also depends on the precision and quality of the watch. He works on vintage watches mainly and surface treatments on 50 - 60 year old watches probably isn't going to make much difference. I read about nano coatings for car finishes. The article claims that nano coatings can reduced the coefficient of drag by 5%. Is that number significant? I don't know. Maybe if you were trying to break the land speed record. But applying that on a 50 year old clunker isn't going to make it go any faster, accelerate better or save on petrol. 🤣
    • 😅 yep certainly overdid it , i wasn't sure if i had enough heat so i went out and left it cooking. You can see the thick frosting, bit like my cherry buns.
    • 5 hours! You have slow cooked it! It must be really tender by now. @nickelsilver posted about his Greiner machine a while back. It had a heated chamber of stearic acid to epilame jewels and it only took 60 seconds. I've tried stearic acid dissolved in ethanol with a flake of shellac. I'm not really convinced by my test results. I conducted a side by side test by coating a mirror with a stripe of stearic acid and putting several drops of 9010 on the treated surface and untreated surface and observed it for several days. The 9010 spread out about the same for both the treated and untreated surfaces. I spoke with my mentor recently regarding epilame and lubricating pallet jewels. He has stopped doing both because he finds no significant improvements to the end result.
    • Used with the correct fitting staking punch it will remove the roller. 
×
×
  • Create New...