Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

To start with use 600 grit wet or dry paper to remove the deep scratches. Make sure that you carefully rub along the length of the strap and not across it. This will take a fair bit of effort and may even require the use of 400 grit first if the scratches are really bad. Repeat the process with 800 and 1000 grit.

For the final finish Use 1200 grit. This must be done very carefully and each stroke MUST be parallel to the edge of the bracelet. When doing this use a fresh piece for each stroke and use in one direction only to ensure that the grain (striations) is even. Do not rub back and forward as this will start to produce a polished finish and you don't want that.

I suggest that you start with the clasp before progressing further.

The same process should be used for the case, remembering to finish with one stroke per piece of paper following the contours of the case.

When you are finished with the rubbing process, give all the parts a good rub with your fingers, the natural oils will give an even finish.

I used this process when re-finishing a titanium Seiko and was very please with the results.

Edited by Geo
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 7 years later...
Posted

I know this is an old post but I think I am going to try this method on a Titanium Citizen I have. Its in very rough shape but got it cheap. I will put up pics given this thread has none, for any interested 😀 If anyone has a different or better method since this thread was posted, please feel free to comment lol.

Posted
2 hours ago, WatchingOracle said:

I know this is an old post but I think I am going to try this method on a Titanium Citizen I have. Its in very rough shape but got it cheap. I will put up pics given this thread has none, for any interested 😀 If anyone has a different or better method since this thread was posted, please feel free to comment lol.

These 'sticks' are pretty good:

https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/buff-sticks-bergeon?code=B49265

They definitely work on stainless steel, maybe try them on the underside of the titanium bracelet/case first, just in case. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

@PlatoCheers. I'll see what my local stockiest has. At this point I was thinking a combo of sandpapers and dialux. Fortunately this Citizen came with every single bracelet link...and it must be made for someone with a 10 inch wrist no joke i've never seen such a long bracelet! I'll made a thread for the pics and link back to here when i'm done.

Edited by WatchingOracle
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Why do you think this is Fontainemelon ? 
    • Hi Watchrepairtalk, I have some questions about part sourcing I was hoping someone here might be able to help with. I'm working on an FHF 180 movement with a broken balance staff, broken regulator pins, and damaged cap jewels (both top and bottom). Some Googling says that this is similar to other FHF calibers like 150s, 160s, 180s and so on but I can't figure out what the functional difference is between these movements.  Is there any reason I wouldn't be able to acquire a donor FHF 150 or similar (with no shock protection) and use parts from that or would it be smarter to source replacements individually? Also are there any sources someone could recommend to get bulk cap jewels like this? Thank you for the help!
    • Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
×
×
  • Create New...