Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All!

i purchased a lot of watch parts and mainsprings from an estate. Is there anyway to identify parts, mainly mainsprings that have fallen out of packaging? I have them in various forms and some clock mainsprings? I don't or will not use them.

i am attaching a photo of two. I have several of these and smaller ones that are probably for women's movements? I also have several stems and they are marked in a bag like 615 or a three digit number?

thoughts or direction are always appreciated! 

Gary

image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Posted

First to add to the confusion mainsprings are interesting because of how their measured. Typically the numbers represent the width, thickness and the length. Watchmakers are creative they used what they had available so we typically end up with a variety of measurements.  So basically this means is a lot of confusing numbers on a package of mainsprings depending upon when it was packaged and it and where. So modern conceivably is all metric. American watch companies typically are inches and Dennison and metric. Meaning that the width and thickness conceivably could be any of the three measurements with the length usually in inches.

The watch Springs that fell out of the packages do you have the packages? Having packages with numbers means you can compare those to the spring versus springs with nothing. The springs in the metal rings will probably have to be removed to identify them. Right now all you can measure is the width perhaps the thickness of the spring and nothing for the length unless you remove it from the ring.

Your second photograph shows an Elgin mainspring If you look carefully in the background is the ghost the word Elgin. So working bottom to top the bottom number is the thickness in inches. The next number 8/0 is the diameter the movement or the size of the watch. I will skip over the 6002 because I'm only looking right now at the package before I go look at reference material so you what it means. Then the next line the DP is the type of end and there is the abbreviation for mainspring. The rest of the numbers I needed to go to a reference. Reference image attached the 6002 is the part number of the mainspring for a 532 watch. I'm also giving a link for find the Elgin parts. If you enter in 532 it will take you to the page where it tells you the mainspring is 6002 notice it does not tell you the thickness? This is why typically when changing mainsprings I always measure the spring just to make sure you get the right replacement hoping that whoever replaced it before you use the right spring.

Then not exactly an answer to the question but for those people who like confusing things a interesting article on mainspring gauges

http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/Watkins-MainspringGauges.pdf

Interesting link with converting the various measurements and bonus formulas at the bottom for figuring out mainspring length.

http://www.dashto.org/images/msChart1.jpg

Reference location for looking up Elgin part numbers

http://www.elginwatchparts.com/

confusing Elgin numbers.JPG

  • Like 2
Posted

Johnr725

thenk you for the response. Most of the loose mainsprings I can only assume the came from some empty generic envelopes. Some are from clocks, and some are larger which I'm assuming are pocket watches? I will go through the theme one day and measure and catalogue. 

Thank you again! 

Gary

  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...