i purchased a lot of watch parts and mainsprings from an estate. Is there anyway to identify parts, mainly mainsprings that have fallen out of packaging? I have them in various forms and some clock mainsprings? I don't or will not use them.
i am attaching a photo of two. I have several of these and smaller ones that are probably for women's movements? I also have several stems and they are marked in a bag like 615 or a three digit number?
thoughts or direction are always appreciated!
I recently had a 1962 vintage Longines cal 280 men's mechanical watch serviced. The mainspring was "tired" and the watchmaker ordered a replacement from his supplier. Upon receiving it, he noticed the end did not match the one he removed. He nonetheless installed it and advised me that the watch would require winding more often due to the spring slipping if it was tightened too much. The watch runs fine other than the more frequent winding required. I would like to locate an original mainspring if possible. I found on the ranfft website that the cal 280 movement has a mainspring with the dims 1.10 x 12 x 0.13. I assume 1.10 is the spring height and 0.13 the spring thickness, but am not sure if 12 is the spring length in inches or the barrel diameter in mm (the spring does appear to be about 12 inches long, though). On another website I found a diagram showing various spring ends, with one of the figures showing a "Longines T end." It was the only figure that had the word Longines associated with it. My question is: how would one go about locating the correct replacement mainspring for the Longines cal 280 movement? See attached photos which suggests the spring removed does not have a T end, but a thickened bridle (I think that is the correct term, anyway). Thanks from a watch amateur.
Crap sorry, I was thinking the minute recorder was not resetting to "12". May still be a simple matter of resetting the hand, but then the minute jump will be off, which means moving the finger on the chrono runner. What I actually suspect is that the hammer is out of adjustment, and is making full contact with the minute counter but not the chrono runner, and you want the reverse of that. Depending on the version you have it may have an adjustable hammer, or may require filing.
The dial looks good for it's age.
From my experience there is really much that can be done to improve the look of a vintage dial. Often what appears to be dirt is instead oxidation and cannot be removed without changing the appearance of the dial. I would stick to using Rodico and Q-Tips dipped in distilled water. If you do anything, be very careful and work very slow. Keep in mind the printing on the dial is often placed on top of the lacquer and it's the first to go when "cleaning" is attempted.
Thanks. That was going to be my first step. I asked because I was curious if the "resets wrong but advances right" was indicative of something specific that I haven't come across in discussions yet.
Worst case scenario, I line up the second hand and don't think about it much when the minute recorder advances.
I think you can just remove the hand and set it at zero when in reset position. If that doesn't do it there's a laundry list of potential issues, on which books have been written. Try that and if you still have a problem it can be addressed.