Jump to content

How to open an old Elgin pocket watch?


Recommended Posts

wow,  nice chart, i copied for referance.  with some minor math  you should be able to select the amount of dome on a hunting case acquired with no crystal.!  measuring  the opening in the bezile accurately is the next step.  good luck.  vinn

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well it's been awhile since I worked on this one. I thought I was nearly done, having finally found a crystal. Thanks to whomever mentioned Dave's by the way!

Anyway, I pulled it out tonight to measure for the crystal and I noticed that will the balance wheel was beating and the second hand moving, the hour and minute hands aren't. It appears the other wheels are engaging and moving but for some reason the hour and minute hands aren't moving. Back to the drawing board this weekend! Any suggestions?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

OK I know it has been awhile but I have an update with a question. I have received another crystal that I am going to try and fit today. I pulled the watch out the other day to remeasure, gave it a wind, and the second-hand get running right away. However, I noticed two things one which seems very unusual. When winding the watch, the minute and second hands turn. That seems strange. When pulling the lever to set the hands, that seems to work properly except once I have it set and push the lever back in, the second-hand ticks but the hour and minute hands do not move. Hope this makes sense. I was really hoping to have this one finished today finally but it looks like I am having bigger issues which are going to require a strip down again. Any advice would be appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Well I know this is a very old thread but I'm going to finally attempt to finish this this weekend. I believe I have found a crystal but before putting it in I'm having some issues. While the second hand is moving and appears to be operating as it should, the minute hand is not moving. Also, with the lever pushed in, the crown will still turn the hands while winding. What could be causing these issues???

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
I'll take a look. Was hoping to have an idea before I broke her down again. Thanks Geo that gives me some direction. I'll let you know what I find.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
Geo everything appears fine unless I misunderstand the function. The center wheel turns the Canon correct? Is it possible this is not happening because it fits too loose? Does there need to be a crimp or anything to hold it?

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cannon pinion should be slightly tight on the centre pinion to allow slippage when setting the hands, but tight enough to allow the hands to be driven by the pinion.

Have a read of this thread it may help you.  

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It sounds like a cannon pinion issue.  Has it been snapped back in place properly?  If it has, it could be needing tightened.  
Geo I actually found the problem. The lever that pulls out to set the watch actually had a loose screw and so it wasn't actuation the way it should. Tightened it down and now she is working ok.

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Have you got the pallet fork installed in the movement when you see the train move when using the setting works? As nevenbekriev said, without the pallet fork to lock the train, the behaviour you are describing is normal. If this is happening with the pallet fork installed, you have a problem in the gear train, it should be immobile when the pallet fork is locking the escape wheel.  The fit of the circlip above the pinions on that wheel is crooked in your pictures, it should sit flat up against the upper pinion as in Marc’s picture.  Hope that helps, Mark
    • Hi I got a Jaeger LeCoultre K911 movement, where one of the stems was broken. Part no. Should be 401.  Im based in Europe and tried Cousins but its discontinued. They except to get stem in stock for cal. K916 but will that work? Or Is there a way out to join the ends?
    • The part was how it fell out of the movement - the train wheel bridge wasn’t screwed in.    I’ll probably dismantle the part, if I can, to work it out.    The train of wheels ran fine - it was only once the keyless works were installed I noticed the problem. 
    • Hello, I am about 5 months into watchmaking and I love it!   The attention to precise detail is what really attracts me to it. (and the tools!) I am working on a 16 jewel 43mm pocket watch movement.   There are no markings besides a serial number (122248) .  The balance staff needs replacement. The roller side pivot broke off.  I successfully removed the hairspring using Bergeon 5430's.  I successfully removed the roller using Bergeon 2810.   Did i mention I love the tools?! I removed the staff from the balance wheel using a vintage K&D staff removal tool  with my Bergeon 15285 (that's the one that comes with a micrometer adjustment so it can be used as a jewel press as well as a traditional staking tool...it's sooooo cool...sorry..  can you tell i love the tools?) No more digressing..  I measured the damaged staff in all the relevant areas but I have to estimate on some because one of the pivots is missing. A = Full length  A= 4.80mm  (that's without the one pivot...if you assume that the missing pivot is the same length as the other pivot (I'm sure it's not)  then A = 5.12 mm...(can I assume 5.00mm here?) F=  Hair spring collet seat  F=  .89mm   (safe to assume .90 here? .. I am sure that my measurement's would at least contain  .01 mm error ?) G = balance wheel seat  G = 1.23 mm  (1.20mm?) H  =  roller staff  H =  .59mm  (.60 mm?) B  = bottom of the wheel to roller pivot   B  = 2.97mm  (3.00 mm?)     here I am estimating  again because this pivot is missing. So my friends, and I thank you profusely,  can you point me in the right direction as to how to proceed? Do i buy individual staffs?  or an assortment?   Since I don't know exactly the name of the manufacturer, will that be a fatal hindrance?   Tbh, I'm not even sure what country of origin this movement is. Thank you!    
    • Thats why i asked that question earlier, what happens if lubrication is placed directly on top of epilame ?  As opposed to walled within its non epilamed area . I'm not saying its right, i have no idea , just asking questions. 
×
×
  • Create New...