Jump to content

ETA 7750 disassembled and need advice on mainspring


Recommended Posts

Hello fellas,

I am at the point of slowly putting this 7750 back together, but want some feed back on the mainspring. I was thinking of just replacing the whole thing. Is it worth it to open the barrel, clean, and re-use the old one, or perhaps just go ahead and buy a whole new barrel complete? I can't seem to figure out how this barrel opens....:unsure:

JC

DSCN0181.JPG

DSCN0183.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Doesn't the cap just push off. How old is the watch? What was the reason for striping it down was it just dirt, or dry, if not could it be poor time keeping if so you need to look at the spring. If you open the barrel does the spring look out of shape and poor fitting in the barrel, how are the teeth do they look worn, what about the arbor does that look good. If all look poor then I would replace the whole thing. Seiko used to recommend replace the whole lot if the watch was over 5 years old. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OldHp,

Thanks for the reply,

I figured out how to open the barrel. It had a "hat box" type cover that I was unfamiliar with. The reason for the overhaul was to complete this new level of watchmaking (for me) and overhaul a chronograph--which after having done alarms, automatics with day/date, jump-hours and hybrid transitorized movements--was the only thing I had not done. The teeth on the barrel look good, the arbor looks excellent, and the mainspring isn't bad at all so I just cleaned the barrel and greased the mainspring with moebius 8300, wiped it with lint free paper, and put it back in. I am not sure how old the watch is, but all functions were working properly. It was running a little fast on the wrist and I confirmed this on a timegrapher. I have it partially put together and running at this point. I could always replace the mainspring now without too much fuss, or let it ride until it goes kaput. I'll figure out what the verdict is when I get more feedback!

J

Edited by noirrac1j
typo
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I think you have answered your own question. Its going fine just needs fine adjustment, so no need to waste money on a spring or complete barrel. 

Yes I did....sometimes I just need a little reassurance and a supportive platform to voice my concerns. Thanks Hip!

 

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, vinn3 said:

congratulations  on finding the opening  procedure for the spring barrel !  vinn

Thanks Vinn,

I don't think I welcomed you to the forum....WELCOME! There's lots of great stuff to learn and fantastic people to share it with, so have some fun and look around.

J

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On ‎5‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 11:23 PM, noirrac1j said:

Is it worth it to open the barrel, clean, and re-use the old one, or perhaps just go ahead and buy a whole new barrel complete?

Sorry Joe, for being late to this post. Congratulations on solving the mainspring problem! Now to answer the question above...my answer would be: why not both? Tinker with the old, to learn; use the new to infuse new life on the movement!

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bob your suggestions are always in line with my own sensibility. Yes I actually received a new complete barrel/mainspring in time to place it on without having to remove too much stuff. In the course of my slow and supposedly methodical disassembly and reassembly, I managed to lose the chronograph wheel friction (I think it floated away during cleaning even though I used a strainer) and the hour counter lock--which I deliberately placed in an envelope to save, and of course I can't find it! All these delays allowed me to replace the mainspring with a new one. I have most of the works back together but am waiting for that hour counter lock hour.

 

JC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ha, that's why I never place stuff in an envelope! I just give the stuff to my kids to play with since I KNOW I will loose the part anyway! :)

Seriously now, it is a good journey, you'll end up with a top of the line movement, serviced and good all over condition due to the new parts...I say, when things happen there is always a reason! Great job, Joe!

Cheers,

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, bobm12 said:

Ha, that's why I never place stuff in an envelope! I just give the stuff to my kids to play with since I KNOW I will loose the part anyway! :)

Seriously now, it is a good journey, you'll end up with a top of the line movement, serviced and good all over condition due to the new parts...I say, when things happen there is always a reason! Great job, Joe!

Cheers,

Bob

Thats funny!

Thanks Bob.

JC

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...