Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Call me old-fashioned, sour old man or whatever you want to ..
But there is one thing that ls me or rather disappoint me.
When making a fine fine article with a lot of illustrations then it is a shame that you can not hold on to the good old virtues of placing text right under it to illustrate. Open any book that is the descriptive text below the image. It has always been and it should also remain for ease of reading.

In this and many other forums have begun to put text over the image or artwork and even the same distance to the next image. This makes it very annoying to read and in particular to understand ....
I know that the software in forums and blogs often makes it difficult to place the text right under the illustration, but if just the description under the illustration, so we've come far ...

Maybe it's just me, sorry

Google translate is my friend!

Posted

Hi maclerche - the Reply box in this forum (I'm looking at it as I type) has a spacing option - left, centre or right - for placing pics and text into the reply. I would have thought it fairly straightforward to centre/align your pics and text as you feel fit, using a combination of place options for the pic and spaces for the text like this:

Screen%20shot%202016-04-21%20at%2016.26.

A screenshot centered

Screen%20shot%202016-04-21%20at%2016.26.

                      A screenshot placed right with centred caption


Screen%20shot%202016-04-21%20at%2016.26.

A screen shot placed left with centred caption                  

 

Just my two-penn'orth!

Will

Posted

I think what the OP was getting at was not alignment, but that it's not obvious with the new forum software how to insert a picture in-line at all. If you just drag files onto the paperclip or choose them, they just get tacked onto the end.

Posted

True - but it's still possible to alternate - say - text with pictures and set the alignment. It's also possible to edit the picture immediately after creating it - by double-clicking it - and change the size and alignment of both text and pictures. Here's a picture:

Hamilton 747.gif This was originally 750x750 px when I inserted it into the post - I double-clicked and changed the aspect to 75x75.

Here's the pic again: Hamilton 747.gif resized and then centered.

All images in the post are the same picture from "choose files" option...

Hope this helps!

Cheers,

Hamilton 747.gifWill :D

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...