Jump to content

Frozen Screw In Nelson Watch

ausimax

By ausimax
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

ausimax WRT Addict

ausimax

Posted
Posted

Hi, I have a slight problem with this movement the stem retaining screw is frozen, will not move in either direction, the stem still rotates but will not pull out to the hand setting position.

 

The screw has a head on the train bridge so I can't disassemble the movement around it, my present line of thinking is to hope the screw will break at the setting lever and allow the lever to fall clear and release the stem.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how best to proceed?

 

Thanks, Max

 

Arrow shows the screw in question

 

.post-1709-0-81173200-1456033789_thumb.jp 

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Hi, I have a slight problem with this movement the stem retaining screw is frozen, will not move in either direction, the stem still rotates but will not pull out to the hand setting position.

 

The screw has a head on the train bridge so I can't disassemble the movement around it, my present line of thinking is to hope the screw will break at the setting lever and allow the lever to fall clear and release the stem.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how best to proceed?

 

Thanks, Max

 

Arrow shows the screw in question

 

.attachicon.gifP2217703.jpg

I am wondering if you can access from the front. If it is possible to remove the the crystal then it might be possible to get at it from the dial side. I have highlighted what I think are the dial feet retaining screws if correct then my idea would work. If not then try a little heat on the stubborn screw with a soldering iron it loosen up things. The other way might be to remove all spring tension first then remove the wheel below to stubborn screw and perhaps you could wiggle the stem out by manipulating the cluch wheel.

 

post-234-0-19649500-1456041348_thumb.png

oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

clockboy you are right about the dial screws. By the picture it looks to me as if there are traces of rust in the pinion wheel. How about dropping some penetrating oil down there and some over the stem retaining screw. 

ausimax WRT Addict

ausimax

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am wondering if you can access from the front. If it is possible to remove the the crystal then it might be possible to get at it from the dial side. I have highlighted what I think are the dial feet retaining screws if correct then my idea would work. If not then try a little heat on the stubborn screw with a soldering iron it loosen up things. The other way might be to remove all spring tension first then remove the wheel below to stubborn screw and perhaps you could wiggle the stem out by manipulating the cluch wheel.

 

attachicon.gifDial feet screws.png

 

Thanks that could be a work around for the problem, attack it from behind or rather befront, if it were the type where the setting lever stud didn't fasten the train bridge it would have been less of a problem,

 thanks for your input will try out the options tomorrow.

 

Max

ausimax WRT Addict

ausimax

Posted
  • Author
Posted

clockboy you are right about the dial screws. By the picture it looks to me as if there are traces of rust in the pinion wheel. How about dropping some penetrating oil down there and some over the stem retaining screw. 

 

Yes have taken that course, placed a couple of drops around the screw and packed it off till the morrow to give it some time to act, thanks for your help.

 

Max

Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Another thing to try.

Get an old screwdriver and using a lightweight hammer tap down on the screw head a couple of times before trying to unscrew it. Make sure the case is well supported before doing this.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
ausimax WRT Addict

ausimax

Posted
  • Author
Posted

]Finally got around to attacking this one again, the WD40 must have done some good as after a lot of persuasion I finally got the screw to turn and after a lot of turning backwards & forwards it finally unscrewed. That did not end the problem as even with the setting lever detached the stem would not remove - gripped the crown with the end cutters and gave a good pull and it broke the stem inside the movement and I  was able to remove it.

Turned out it is a front loader and the movement has to be removed from the dial side, third one of those I have struck this week.

 

Now back in the WD40 again to try and get the remnant stem out of the setting gears and the setting lever screw is still welded into the tube of the main plate it worked loose and came out as well.

 

post-1709-0-17278000-1456986600_thumb.jp

 

post-1709-0-06494000-1456986604_thumb.jp

 

post-1709-0-56194700-1456986606_thumb.jp

 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...