Jump to content

Demagnetizing

Davey57

By Davey57
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

Davey57 WRT Addict

Davey57

Posted
Posted

I have reassembled my Seiko 4205 and am almost ready to post the pictures of the rebuild in the walkthrough section. It went together fine and was running but needed a little shake to get it going, I noticed that the balance was not looking quite as lively as it should. A close look revealed that the hairspring was clinging onto the balance cock and the coils looked bound up. Now, I will be the first to admit that my oiling skills are not quite there yet, but I knew that I hadn't put so much oil on that this could be the problem. I have taken the balance back out and held it close to my compass and the needle is deflecting so I assume it is magnetized. Actually, I held the rest of the movement near the compass too and it sent the needle spinning like mad, so the whole thing must need demagnetizing. I have noticed that Cousins stock them for £1.95, or you can get the Bergeon one for around £45! Now I am always one for a bargain but are the cheap ones ok, anyone here using one?  Obviously I won't be buying a Bergeon one anyway but I wouldn't mind paying a bit more if it was necessary.

While I was at it I "tested" most of my tools and found they are magnetized, as well as another couple of watches that I own. I am wondering whether it would be good practice to demag watches as a matter of course when servicing them and periodically doing the same with tools I use a lot. What do you think?

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

Looks good to me. Thanks Geo.

After another look at the Cousins one, I saw that it was really small, think you'd struggle to get a decent sized watch through it.

If that is a magnetiser/demagnetiser with a hole through it that looks like a set of steps, it is not for demagnetising watches. It can be used to magnetise the likes of screwdrivers to allow them to hold screws, then demagnetise them afterwards. With this type demagnetising is done by rattling the screwdriver in a rotary motion inside the demagnetiser.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Blacklab Distinguished Member

Blacklab

Posted
Posted

I have used a Chinese Bergeon clone (the £45 one) for the last couple of years and it works fine, costs a lot less & is probably built in the same factory as the official Bergeon one.

 

As for the 4205, I fixed up one for the boss last year. After thorough cleaning & demagnetising the hairspring coils continued to stick, so I gave up and put in a new complete balance. It now running fine.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rogart63 Distinguished Member

rogart63

Posted
Posted

I have used a Chinese Bergeon clone (the £45 one) for the last couple of years and it works fine, costs a lot less & is probably built in the same factory as the official Bergeon one.

 

As for the 4205, I fixed up one for the boss last year. After thorough cleaning & demagnetising the hairspring coils continued to stick, so I gave up and put in a new complete balance. It now running fine.

Seiko hairsprings are a pain to get working properly. They are very tight and the springs are very close to each other. That is at least what i have found out? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Davey57 WRT Addict

Davey57

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My demagnetiser arrived today. Swapped the plug as it comes with a two prong plug, gave it a go and it lasted all of the few seconds that I had the button pressed. The button is now u/s, I took the back off to have a look and the + wire that goes to the button has de-soldered itself. It's obviously burned out, as it smells. It is 110- 220v so was it ok to plug it straight in, or have I had a Frank Spencer moment?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Geo Distinguished Member

Geo

Posted
Posted

I'm wondering if it was what is called a dry joint, that means that the solder hasn't fused with the wire/tab properly. There is a possibility if you solder it properly it will still work. Check the transformer wire insulation and see if it is burnt, and if it is it's a bin job.

When using this type of demagnetiser, the button should not be held down for more than a bout five seconds while drawing the movement away from it to a distance of about two feet.

I have had mine for about five years now and it still works perfectly, I think you have just been unlucky.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Davey57 WRT Addict

Davey57

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Might have had the button down for longer than 5 seconds but surely it would be ok with that?  The button is destroyed, it has melted a wee bit around it's base where the solder joint was.

Other than that there are no more burned wires or anything. I was thinking about trying to find a new button from Maplins and giving it a go or do you

think the whole thing will be up the creek? Got to be worth a try for the price of a push button.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • ManSkirtBrew
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By ManSkirtBrew · Posted

      Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • noirrac1j
      Watch of Today

      By noirrac1j · Posted

      As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Part swapper to part maker

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Hawaiikook808
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Marc
      Seitz Tool - Help determine if Seitz or not

      By Marc · Posted

      Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...