Jump to content

Gustav Becker Anniversary Clock Set-Up


johnf600

Recommended Posts

I have a Gustav Becker Anniversary clock with serial number 2065461 which I believe dates it at about 1898 -1900.

The clock has been working OK recently but after cleaning, etc and the fitting of a new suspension wire I am having difficulties getting it to run. It runs very well for about 15 minutes and then stops. I believe this is due to the fact that the pendulum is not getting the 'push' from the main spring. Looking at the anchor pin it is very jerky as it moves from side to side and I don't know where this inconsistency is coming from. Also the fork attached to the suspension wire seems to have very little displacement. It would be useful to know just how much displacement is normal (in mm not degrees!).

I should be very grateful if anyone could cast some light on where I should go from here. I'm very reluctant to play around with the pallets, partly because I can't get at them without dismantling the gear train and then I can't observe their operation.

Best regards,

JohnF

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not the easiest of clocks to get in beat. In fact many clock repairers won't touch them.

Its hard without seeing the action, but I will do my best. There shouldn't be hardly any distance or play between the suspension pallet forks and the long stem from the pallets, to stop the jerking put a very tiny drop of oil both sides of the long stem, this will stop the jerking. A little oil on both pallet faces. I know you said you fitted a new suspension spring, are you sure you have the correct one and that it isn't bent in any way and it is the right length. You need to have the forks at the right height There is a book which I highly recommend about these clocks. I think it's called  The Horolovar 400-day clock repair guide. Also a very good tool for getting the clock in beat link https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/horolovar-beat-setting-tool. How did you go about cleaning it? Try this first and let me know.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello John,

First things first, never adjust the pallets, their set from the factory, maybe polish the impulse faces slightly. Also check to see that the pin lever has not worked loose in the verge/anchor. Should only be checked when its removed from the plates, the pivots will break like glass.

 

Like OldHippy says, the suspension spring must be the exact thickness and length, and the fork must be positioned perfectly according to the horolovar book specifications, and the mainspring should be wound

 

Setting up proper beat takes more patience then watching paint dry.

Make the pend stand still, put tape on base and mark as neutral position

turn pendulum horribly slowly until you see it escape a tooth, mark this position

turn pend the other way until it escapes, mark this.

The distance from each mark to neutral should be equal, if not, you need to turn the top Saddle assembly a microscopic amount until it is correct. Realize each adjustment will require new marks

After proper adjustment, you will see that not only does the pendulum swing enough to cause escapeing, but you will also see it overswing the mark, this is very good. A total rotation of 270 degree's is great. This shows good power coming through the train to the escape wheel.

 

Once you have it in beat, a half bottle of Wine is in order

 

Beat Rate is adjusted with the knob on top on the pend bob. Don't be surprized if the etched arrows are in correct for Retard or Advance. In a perfect world the knob should be in the middle at the correct beat rate according to horolover specs

If the beat is too fast and you can't slow down with the pend knob, you can sand the suspension spring length below the fork with Crocus Cloth, polishing cloth. If you didn't put in the correct suspension spring to begin with, don't expect Crocus Cloth to fix it.

If the beat is too slow, you put in the wrong suspension spring

Finish off the rest of the Wine

 

Forks that flutter are usually adjusted too low on the suspension spring a micro amount

If the fork is too high it will reduce the total swing of the pendulum, but not flutter, you need to find the sweet spot in between.

Any adjustment to the fork or spring throws out the above adjustments, do it again, and again.

 

Also as the mainspring and oil ages along with dirty pivots, this reduces tolal swing of the pendulum until the swing cannot cause escapement any longer

If you've gotten this far, you might be wondering if the clock will run an entire year. To test this, let down the mainspring and put 1.5 winds on it. It should barely be escaping. If it does, pat yourself on your back, your done.

 

Now you know why most clocksmiths will not touch anniversary clocks, too much labor, not enough money

I think its time for my nape

 

Al Takatsch

Jefferson ClockWorks

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent description Al, thank you for posting. I have two anniversary clocks needing attention, it looks like a case of wine will have to be purchased shortly! :)

Agree Geo a very good in depth description. After reading it, it reminded me of some things I'd forgotten. The book I mentioned has pictures of the back plates and pictures of the suspension springs including where the fork should be put, the length and strength of the suspension spring. If you are going to undertake repairing these clocks its a clock makers bible. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have repaired/serviced many anniversary clocks & for them to run everything has to be correct. The thickness of the suspension spring is also very critical to thick/thin & you can never get the clock in time. Gustav Becker use .004" suspension springs.

The book I highly recommend is 400 Day Clock by Charles Terwilliger.

I did have a conversation a few years ago with a fellow horologist who hated working on them. However he recommended fitting a stronger spring if all else fails. I have never tried it but it would help.

 

 

post-234-0-30509400-1453828267_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gentlemen,

Many, many thanks for your comprehensive advice on how to set up my anniversary clock. It will take a little time to work through everything  but I will start on this soon and report back on progress.

I've already opened a bottle of wine in anticipation!

Best regards,

John

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Excellent Vid. Notice how important it is to get everything nice & squire In the exact position & no kinks whatsoever with the spring.

Oh yes its very crucial. I'm not to keen on how he goes about holding the blocks. I found the best way was to hold them in my watch movement vice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Did you have a look under the ballance? Often the movement maker/number is hidden there.
    • I wonder if 9415 is based on a base oil of 941? it's interesting what questions bring and the tech sheet answers it's the viscosity of the base oil. Then the impact? There is something we're missing here for that which would have a big influence on all of the house image above is 9514 image below is 941.then always interesting when specifications do not exactly agree? They ledge above for 941 indicates 110 viscosity but the image off the spec sheet is slightly less but I guess close enough   my understanding of the concern of too much 9415 is as we know the loss of amplitude. But why do we have a loss of amplitude? So impact it's basically oil should be very slippery. But what about non-impact? Like the edges of the escape wheel? Another thing that comes to play here is the shape of the escape wheel itself. Notice on the last a more vintage escape wheel with just a flat surface whereas the modern escape wheels usually made out of steel versus grass much much thinner their contact areas greatly been reduced and sometimes I think there even slightly curved. So is it conceivable at everything that isn't a flat surface on impact is going to be sticky? So this is where the shape of the escape wheel will have a big impact literally on how slippery things are. Oh and for all of you obsessed with worrying about too much 9415 I never worry about it because typically I'm doing pocket watches and it doesn't seem to be an issue at all. on the other hand I'm much more concerned about a watch that keeps time for 24 hours as opposed to the concern of the group of keeping amplitude for 24 hours. Then yes some pocket watches have steel escape wheels and do look like the escape wheel on the right.   
    • your balance wheel looks interesting in the watch and because it's at an angle it's changing things a little bit. in other words they hairspring is not centered between the regulator pin in the boot and I also noticed your terminal curve is lacking apparently by design? Because if you look in the second image you'll notice yes there's a terminal curve but not as aggressive a one as you normally see on watches at least most watches.   then in all of your images it looks like the boot isn't quite back where it's supposed to be? out of curiosity how did you remove your balance complete and clear the regulator pin? then just in case you weren't aware it rotates out of the way so you can remove the balance complete without bending the pin. Then it's rotated back exactly 90° and yours looks like it's off by just a little bit in the original image and I'm assuming that you just been the pin out of the way? it's always interesting in horology is the variations in the things. Like the image I have above does have a terminal curve but not the most aggressive and yours is even less but that is the way the watch was made. Then the spacing between the regulator pin in the boot should be relatively small basically if you had two pieces of the thickness of your hairspring that's how much space should be there like in this image. But oftentimes watch manufacturers do not necessarily follow the rules  
    • Yep i can see where you're going with that one Rich.  Sooo now that I've frightened the OP into submission 😁. Chief i do apologise for some reason unbeknown to myself I'm in a happy silly mood. So seriously to identify the movement lets have a look at the dial side, learning this part is straightforward, just need a little logic and something called the # BESTFIT BOOKS # . Or the other non American equivalents. 
    • I can definitely see elephant and aardvark and possibly some sort of bird with a large beak 🤣 anyway I'll have a go of getting it flipped over tonight and send some pics
×
×
  • Create New...