Jump to content

Loose roller table

dnhb
 Share

Recommended Posts

dnhb WRT Addict

dnhb

Posted
  • Author
Posted
7 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Sharpening gauge.   I found the easiest side to do was the safety roller as the roller table laid flat on a block provided stability.  The other way requires a specific stump for the roller and pin to sit in, but may also grip better way.

Screenshot_20250508-000030_eBay.jpg

Ah! Yes, I've got one of those. Thanks for this & all your helpful contributions.

nevenbekriev Distinguished Member

nevenbekriev

Posted
Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, dnhb said:

1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)!

2. I've been checking where the roller needs to be in relation to the wheel, the hairspring stud/arm & the pallet fork to try to get it right first time.

 

If the hole of the roller is that bigger, then just putting something in the hole for tightening can easy make the roller rotate out of true. It is important, especially for the safety roller, to be true. Closing the hole with triangle punch also will not guaranty the safety roller true rotation.

The roller is to be placed as the impulse jewel to be right at 90 degr. against the balance arms.

Edited by nevenbekriev
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
Posted
18 hours ago, dnhb said:

1. I've so far found that this one needs something thicker than 2x kitchen foil (another suggestion in that thread)!

It must be very loose then 😲

I bought some brass shim sheet  0.001", 0.002", 0.003" & 0.005". Useful stuff. You can find assorted packs on ebay

Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

 Agree with  Neven, roller table rotating out of true alters  lift angle which follows an oscilatory path , that  in turn changes the impulse delivered to oscilator at its TDC. 

 

 

  • Like 1
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

Echoing Neven, the safety action on nice pieces is often very close, and a slight eccentricity can affect this. Runs great horizontal, then one or two verticals crap out. Without fail the balance will be above the escapement in these faulty positions- though sometimes also at horizontal to it, the "draw" (what pulls the fork to the banking) is often less than ideal, especially in older pieces and in my experience more with higher grade stuff. Suddenly the guard pin is rubbing.

  • Like 2
Neverenoughwatches Distinguished Member

Neverenoughwatches

Posted
Posted

This much gap will make the rollers and all run too eccentric. The pin , the passing notch and the safety roller all have strict tolerances to coincide with the fork slot, gaurd pin and horns. Will it run ? Maybe, but it will restrict the escapement efficiency.

JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
On 5/7/2025 at 10:29 AM, nevenbekriev said:

But, is this watch worth it?

 

On 5/6/2025 at 3:22 PM, dnhb said:

'm sorry if my previous posts have caused confusion. I don't charge the Charity Shop for my time or materials so neither "lowest price" nor "profit" is relevant. I will tell the shop to what condition I have been able to return the watch & advise whether I think they could hope to get a better price online rather than selling locally in declaring that condition. Naturally I aim to do work that is 'proper' - hence my question that initiated this thread - or at least reversible & explain what I have done & why. So "fast quick repairs" doesn't exactly apply either although I won't hold on to a watch beyond the point at which I'm making improvements or have the realistic prospect of doing so, for example as a result of advice I hope to receive from WRT colleagues. I do hope this clarification is helpful. Thank you for your interest.

These two quotes together are quite amusing aren't they?

We end up with quite an amusing problem. We find out that you not going to charge for labor material or basically anything the repair of a watch will cost them zero. All they have to contribute to the project is a free watch and you will generate cash for them at no expenditure to them at all. So this actually means that every single watch is now worth it to them as they have nothing at all to lose.

There's a reason why on eBay when they sell watches that they say are running but they only ran for a few seconds when they observed it was running. Or the definition of cleaning is spraying it with lighter fluid and saying it's now cleaned. Because anything that resembles proper watch servicing requires time and effort and expenditure. But here at least for the charity there is no time there is no expense there is no nothing outstanding deal they worked out but is it a good deal for you? If basically the watch is only going to make a profit because of all the effort that you put into it way beyond what the watch would've cost even if it was running is it really a good deal?

 

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • RichardHarris123
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I would put a lock on the drawers. 
    • SteveF
      What Got You Into Watches?

      By SteveF · Posted

      You look familiar!!   It’s quite strange as it was only last November when I asked myself, “how exactly does a watch work?”.  Six months later I’ve spent a fortune on watches, working and broken, and an equal amount on tools.    I find it interesting and frustrating in equal measure. I see watchmakers on YouTube getting things right every time, yet I struggle to put in case clamps!! 
    • SAMyMAS
      Make groove Case steel 316L - without lathe

      By SAMyMAS · Posted

      The watch case consists of three parts: the upper part with crystal, the middle part (depicts in photos) needs cutting (make current groove deeper to 0.5mm, see arrow) to install the movement and the third/bottom part of screw-down. Thank you for your response.
    • SteveF
      Omega 38.5 pocket watch

      By SteveF · Posted

      It looks a bit rough but it’s older than my parents and I’m 58!! It wasn’t working when I got it and I’m really pleased that it is now.
    • JohnR725
      Elgin Grade 315: Runs/stops with dial down/up

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      I'm finding this slightly confusing that you would make a mistake like this. The balance hole jewels themselves are very distinctive in how they look. If we were dealing with a modern watch where you have the jewels like the end stone all by itself that often times there is a confusion over which is the curbside in which is the flat side but typically when they're in brass settings that's a lot harder to do. So down below is the image of how the jewels should look without their settings. I think it really have a tough time getting the balance pivots in through the hole jewel if it was in the upside down? Then down below is an image of a balance jewel in a setting. You'll notice typically there is a edge in other words is not flat there's two different diameters. One of the problems it happens to a lot of people is when you're putting this jewel into the hole you need to use around toward and push down and make sure it's down flat and not at some weird angle often times they don't fit in very nicely they can go in with a little bit of force. But no matter what it has to be Completely down.   Then this is what it looks like all assembled where putting things in upside down seems impossible?   I see the restless discussion is gone on to a second page but I will do the collet rotating here and then look at the hairspring nightmare on the other page in a little bit.   My preferred way is leave the collet on the staff because anytime you do anything with it as you've observed it can sometimes lead the problem. Then you always want to have a clear view of the collet so rotating it in clever fashions in the watch can lead to disaster so it's much better if the balance is off the bridge if you can do that One of the ways that makes this a lot easier would be a permanent marking it felt pen that makes tiny dots. So it no power in the watch she manually rotate the balance wheel until it's where it's supposed to be for watch in beat then you site from the center of the balance jewel straight out through the where the stud holder is and put a dot on the balance rim which corresponds to where the stud should be if the watch is in beat. Often times the Swiss companies actually would mark the balance wheel they put a little pinprick there so you would know where your stud is supposed to be then when you remove the balance wheel you will find the stud will be on one side or the other of your little.you just have to rotate it and I would say it's pretty simple but based on the next page I guess not then hairspring tools not just for rotating hairspring as they came in a set unfortunately I no longer have the box which makes finding the set a bit of a challenge Of the tools the orange one in the middle is the most popular at work it keeps getting borrowed by my coworkers. Yes I work in a shop where personal tools apparently belong to everyone else in the shop such a bizarre concept. So this often means I have to go looking for my tools so I can do my work. Then he ever variety of tips and these tools are all designed for straightening out hairspring problems not everything is a band a lot of times things have just they look really bad but they're not actually been to a lot of these tools will help with that Then the largest handled tool from the side view is basically a very long taper. When you're rotating the collet screwdrivers are extremely bad as you do not want to try the collet open as it leads to breaking. The tool itself should ideally drop into the slot with no effort and if you let go of the tool it should just fall over practically than other words there should be no aggressive force it just drops in. This is what the tool looks like in use. If you didn't have a tool like this you could just sharpen a screwdriver tip to having a nice long taper that as I said should literally drop into the slot. Then because the balance wheels out it makes it a lot easier to see what you're doing also   What can I say here? Remember this is saying that has to do with cutting wood for instance measure twice cut once and I words figure out what you're doing before you do it. A lot of times hairsprings that look bent aren't really bent. Sometimes things are just overlapping this is where studying the hairspring first before fixing which typically people will bend so you're right your hairspring is now bent. So fiddling with it not grasping what you're doing yes that's definitely an issue now.
×
×
  • Create New...