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I'm working on a 25-dollar, 1903 grade 269 Elgin pocket watch for practice. It looks to me like the pallet jewels are too close to the escape wheel. What do you think? What is the best position for pallet jewels? Is there a rule of thumb, or due they need to be place into the fork at a precise depth? Depending on what is said, my plan is to service the watch and then place it on the timegrapher and go from there. Pic 1 is the entrance stone and pic 2 is the exit stone. 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, Wilson said:

I'm working on a 25-dollar, 1903 grade 269 Elgin pocket watch for practice. It looks to me like the pallet jewels are too close to the escape wheel. What do you think? What is the best position for pallet jewels? Is there a rule of thumb, or due they need to be place into the fork at a precise depth? Depending on what is said, my plan is to service the watch and then place it on the timegrapher and go from there. Pic 1 is the entrance stone and pic 2 is the exit stone. 

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Hi Wilson, i looked at your profile hope you dont mind but its good to know who we all are and what we are about. Seems you haven't visited to discuss for a very long time joining 10 years ago, fair to assume you have some experience. Giving us some info about you can help. Guide lines for depth of stone lock suggest less than what is shown the entry stone in particular. There are other things to consider before you think about adjustment of them, to note they should be the same and changing one's depth will alter the other's. Search for Nicklesilver's excellent explanation of the escapement adjustment before proceeding.  

This may be under the search words of pallet stones depth, escapement adjustment, moving banking pins. These are relevant aspects, also important are the safety clearances of the gaurd pin/safety roller,  fork horn/impulse pin of which moving the banking pins and pallet stones can affect.

Leaning this becomes invaluable information for escapement adjustment.

Edited by Neverenoughwatches
Extra information added
  • Like 1
Posted

From what I've read, the figure I've seen most is that the lock is 1/3 of the jewel width (Fried suggests this). But, I have also seen suggestion that it should be 1/4 or 1/5 jewel width.

The entry jewel does look a bit deep - it may be the camera angle. See how it performs on the timegrapher after a service. Is the amplitude is too low, try pushing the entry jewel in a touch

  • Like 1
Posted

You have to be careful with this one. The jewel slots look a bit larger than the jewels. After you remove the shellac, the jewels might be too loose to trial fit it for testing.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi Wilson,

Actually, the most important thing when adjusting the pallets position is the drop lock. Yes, the entrance pallet looks to deep, but it is possible that the banking pin is to open and thus artificially enlarging the total lock. So the first thing to do is to check the banking pins position. When the pallets position is correct, the exit pallet mus be slightly 'deeper' at banking position than the entrance pallet

  • Like 1

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