Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I have been working on a Timor Cal 6060 (Dirty Dozen) which was previously a non-runner, having replaced the mainspring and cleaned all components, I believe I have found the (second) fault!

When facing up, the balance wheel will stop abruptly after a few seconds, but run continually when facing down (dial side up), any thoughts would be appreciated, my initial thoughts was the balance wheel making contact with the pallet bridge but seems odd...

Image attached for reference.

Cheers,

Rich

431889399_1499974533932618_2070071982463402703_n.jpg

Posted

Hi usually that sort of problem is associated with the balance pivots being worn or Broken or the balance jewels being cracked or chipped, maladjusted balance spring catching the cock or fourth wheel. These are the basics there are other reasons but as you have to start somewhere start with the most common reasons then work outwards.

Posted (edited)

The pivots look OK. In this position, balance may rub on the pallet bridge, the roller table may rubb on the pallet fork, the bottom of roller table may rubb on the main plate, and on the tip of the screw that fixes the bottom endstone plate, the impulse jewel may rubb on guard pin, the rounded part of the pivot may rubb on the hole jewe too. Thiss all may be due to broken, missing or moved down endstone, or the plate with the stone has some dirt or other obsticle under it. But, sometimes different odd reasons can exist, like for example someone has changed the balance from a donnor movement. All the reasons are visible and must be checked. For beginning, remove the lever and it's bridge and do the free oscillations test.

Edited by nevenbekriev
  • Like 3
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

One more thing I’d add to the excellent list by nevenbekriev, check that you haven’t accidentally switched the top and bottom endstones of the balance wheel. 

The endstones are sometimes of different thicknesses, and switching them can cause end shake problems that can result in a watch that won’t run dial down. 

Hope that helps,

Mark

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...