Hi all, first time here seeking watch related knowledge. Best regards to all of you !!! I am an amateur watch technician looking to become pro in a couple of years
-
Recently Browsing
- No registered users viewing this page.
-
Topics
-
-
Posts
-
By Michael1962 · Posted
Another question if I may. When you guys buy watch lots are you buying a mix of mechanical and quartz as well? Most of the job lots I am finding (all overseas) are a mix. If they are all mechanical, it is generally just movements with no cases. I am not at the point where I can identify movements by just viewing them so I'm not inclined to buy a bunch of stuff which will just end up lying around. Is anyone able to successfully move any of the watches they save on to someone else? I can't see a viable market in Australia for refurbished watches. Most people I have seen at work only have a watch if it counts their steps, answers their phone and makes the coffee. I'll admit it, I have a super cheap smartwatch on my wrist. Will I buy another one when it quits? Doubt it. I don't know if I would even bother with a pedometer. Heart rate? And do what with all the data? Blood pressure? Never been right since I got the watch. Sleep? If I can't work out that I'm not getting enough, I need to have a serious talk with myself. I think I'll go back to my Seiko and just make myself stay active. -
-
By JeremyLaurenson · Posted
I suppose this fits "best" in this forum 😃 Im looking for some wall 'art' that doubles as a reference. Specifically Id like to find an ETA 28xx or Sellita exploded movement view. 2824/2836 would be ideal. Have any of you seen/found such a thing - there seem to be a lot of these for specialized movements, and none of them ready to print or to be had as a poster. Why help is appreciated. -
The diameter is that of the ring - afaik, will have to look it up. “Wiggle room“ doesn‘t matter as long as the spring length is in the ball park. Essential sizes of a mainspring are thickness, width and length. Diameter is just a hint if you can push into the barrel directly or will need a winder, it is no property of the spring. Frank -
.thumb.jpg.cb17a66989f1e796fd4217db2e9ca9df.jpg)
Hi @Zendoc, I guess you're like me and you don't have a mainspring winder. I searched GR mainspring for the AS 1686 mainspring and I now understand your dilemma. The exact one is discontinued. To answer you question more directly, I see two good alternatives for you: a) GR4485 with 1.60 x .10 x 280 x 8.5 ( I guess this one is the one you found): https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/GR4485 OR b) GR4477 with 1.60 x .095 x 320 x 9. https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/gr4477 As you know, the the AS 1686 spring is supposed to be 1.60 x .10 x 300 x 9. - both of the above will fit and you'll manage to insert them from the retention ring without need for a mainspring winder (provided you know how to do it). - GR4485 will give you more power (=higher amplitude), but less power reserve (due to shorter length) than the original. - GR4477 will give you the same power reserve as the original. However, a bit less power. Personally, I'd take GR4477 for two reasons: 1. Well, the power reserve is better. 2. With modern lubricants and modern mainspring metal alloys, you tend to get a higher amplitude anyways. You'd maybe even end up with too much amplitude (knocking) if you go with the original size and use thin synthetic oils-- see discussion here: https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/10580-omega-calt17-help/#comment-248101
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.