Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Having “mastered” servicing my ST36 movements, I moved on the a SEIKO NH35. Took it apart without any issue including removing the balance jewels and other palette jewels. Now that everything is clean, I am really struggling with getting the diashock spring back into the balance. I watched videos about using two tweezers but so far that method has not worked. I tried making a tool out of peg wood but my whittling skills are not up to scratch so that has not worked either. Just wondering if anyone has ever used hand setting tools?  I realize that they are probably better suited (if at all) to the three pronged type of spring as opposed to the ones on this movement that have two prongs at the end of the spring, but would those tools fit over the jewel and allow me to twist the spring into place?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use no extra fine 5 brass tweezers dressed extremely sharp and a sharpened sewing needle glued to a piece of dowel. 

I use the needle to keep it located in position so it can't escape and the tweezers to push and twist the dialshock.

One thing I always do is place a piece of plastic film (glad wrap/sandwich wrap) over the top of everything and  push the tools through it.

If you use the plastic film just place and remove it slowly so you don't drag parts of the movement.

Some would say this is amaterish but it stops you losing things which can render a whole movement useless.

I know I've spent hours on my hands and knees looking for parts !!!

Are you doing it under a microscope? As that is the only way I can do it successfully and see what's going on. 

Maybe watch a few more videos on Youtube and take your time.

Regards CJ

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those things were designed by a sadist. Using this technique i've had even the small bridge train ones down to a science for awhile. Even with being able to set them in seconds i STILL lost one last week. The nice thing about them is if you practice practice practice and can set them easily almost anything else you gotta do with tweezers seems like a cake walk.

image.thumb.png.f3a8e2e6e7aabba43feeecf14f090f24.png

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

Those things were designed by a sadist. Using this technique i've had even the small bridge train ones down to a science for awhile. Even with being able to set them in seconds i STILL lost one last week. The nice thing about them is if you practice practice practice and can set them easily almost anything else you gotta do with tweezers seems like a cake walk.

image.thumb.png.f3a8e2e6e7aabba43feeecf14f090f24.png

Yup. I got one in today using this method. Hasn’t worked yet on the little ones. I only realized after I took them out that I probably didn’t need to. 
BTW - my theory - this is how the Japanese got back at the rest of the world for the Americans dropping a bomb on them. Long, steady torture. 

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, MarkF said:

I only realized after I took them out that I probably didn’t need to.

As long as you can get the jewel holes and the cap jewels spotless, by all means, but I don't think that is possible.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one  ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks
    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one 😞 ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks    
    • I have bought without seeing inside before and have generally been luck Michael. If its a screwback case i seem to allow some leniency on the removal of it, i dont know why because I've never struggled to remove a back with very basic equipment.   If everything is inside them, then once restored and keeping time the oris could be worth 20 -30 each, I've paid a lot more Oris date pointers in the past.
    • I use a nylon bristle from a brush to run around the coils or a thin piece of copper wire, you need .1 - .15mm.
    • I actually sent a message to him on eBay asking exactly that. They all look like snap-on casebooks so should be easy enough to get the photos.
×
×
  • Create New...