Jump to content

Brass plating restoration


MikeEll

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...

If its solid brass then it will polish, what that looks like is the lacquer that has worn away, So you need to strip the case drop in the tank with an ammonia based cleaner to strip the rest of the lacquer away then polish with brasso and clean again then spray lacquer the case again to keep the shine. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Photos please.

I actually posted this under a separate thread.  See here - 

 

3 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Did you lacquer the whole case? If not it will tarnish quite quick.   

I haven't done that yet, but good point.

 

I'm really pleased with the accuracy.  It arrived to me broken and it now keeps perfect time over the course of a week or so.

Edited by MikeEll
Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, MikeEll said:

I actually posted this under a separate thread.  See here - 

 

I haven't done that yet, but good point.

 

I'm really pleased with the accuracy.  It arrived to me broken and it now keeps perfect time over the course of a week or so.

I use Mohawk lacquer for brass for all the brass on the torsion clocks I restore

Dell


IMG_1119.jpeg.91f6e11d4a6b2d9a9a850d7a1849e81d.jpeg

IMG_2411.jpeg.c59e5904d87f6186d39a36fadaf806fc.jpeg

Edited by Dell
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

40 minutes ago, MikeEll said:

thanks Dell, I'll add some to my next order.  Where do you buy yours from?

Master finishes.

I forgot to say don’t put it on like normal lacquer, just a dust coat then straight over again with a slightly wetter one but not wet , it looks horrible when first applied but it flows out lovely, try on a bit of polished scrap brass first.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I always preferred to paint the lacquer on, spraying can leave minute bubbles I admit you can hardly see them but you know they are there. Horolacq clear is the one I had and painted on with a paint artist flat brush. I drys very quick. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

I always preferred to paint the lacquer on, spraying can leave minute bubbles I admit you can hardly see them but you know they are there. Horolacq clear is the one I had and painted on with a paint artist flat brush. I drys very quick. 

I found that with most lacquers but not the one I use now, I know some people dip them but I never found that very successful, always ended up with a hard blob .

Dell

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one  ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks
    • Dear all My first experience servicing a quartz watch after servicing as an hobby my mechanic watches for many years. This is an old Certina that was given to me by a friend, with  a ETA/ESA 9362 movement. Before service I put a new battery and the watch was working. After servicing the movement stopped working. i understand that there might be a lot of reasons for this (including the fact that I used technics and oils from mechanic movements on this one 😞 ), but at this stage I would only need to check if the electronic module is good. Don't have a quartz tester but only a multimeter. You will see on the photos that the battery contact is broken and needs soldering. With the battery in the movement I can confirm that the electronic module had power (1.57v). Question: what basic tests can I do with a multimeter to confirm that the electronic module is good? how to check if the coil is good and if there is pulse in the electronic module? what contacts should I use to test it? (I saw some videos on you tube but was not able to find the specific test procedures for the ETA 9362). Any information to help me check if the reason for the movement to stop is on the electronic or mechanic part of the watch is much appreciated. Many thanks    
    • I have bought without seeing inside before and have generally been luck Michael. If its a screwback case i seem to allow some leniency on the removal of it, i dont know why because I've never struggled to remove a back with very basic equipment.   If everything is inside them, then once restored and keeping time the oris could be worth 20 -30 each, I've paid a lot more Oris date pointers in the past.
    • I use a nylon bristle from a brush to run around the coils or a thin piece of copper wire, you need .1 - .15mm.
    • I actually sent a message to him on eBay asking exactly that. They all look like snap-on casebooks so should be easy enough to get the photos.
×
×
  • Create New...