Trying to source mainsprings and nothing comes up.

[Jon]

This is the mainspring you need from Gleave and Co.

https://gleave.london/search.php?search_query=seiko 7009 mainspring&section=product

Fits a treat! Cousins don't sell this, that's why I go to Gleave and Co in Clerkenwell, here in London.

@Birbdadyou can manipulate that spring you have already in the barrel to close it up slightly. I've closed up the inner coil in a mainspring a lot bigger than the one your having problems with without having to heat the coil. First get a piece of brass wire or steel rod about half three quarters the size of the barrel arbor. This is placed in the inner coil so you don't crush or kink the inner coil of the spring, then with sturdy tweezers (carbon steel) start pinching the inner coil in various places around the inner coil. Be even in your pinching. It will take about 10 minutes or so, but it will slowly work the inner coil slightly smaller to fit the arbor. You'll be surprised at how much it will close that coil. You can't close it that much, but enough for what you require judging by your photo of the coil and arbor in situ. Take your time and make sure you always use the brass wire to not over do it. Be careful, as @Neverenoughwatcheshas already pointed out, not to scratch up the barrel or arbor hole/bush in the barrel. Very easily done, as it is soft brass. I'm sure you will close it up enough to grip the arbor. I've closed up inner coils much bigger than yours.

Make sure you use a rod of steel or brass to stop the tweezers from completely crushing the inner coil. This part is imperative to the process, so don't overlook it, thinking that you will have control to how much your squeezing that coil with your tweezers, because that's where it all starts to go downhill and next thing you've got a fooked mainspring that is no good to man nor beast. Been there, done that, got the T shirt!

Let us know how you got on.

[Birbdad]

1 hour ago, Jon said:

This is the mainspring you need from Gleave and Co.

https://gleave.london/search.php?search_query=seiko 7009 mainspring&section=product

Fits a treat! Cousins don't sell this, that's why I go to Gleave and Co in Clerkenwell, here in London.

@Birbdadyou can manipulate that spring you have already in the barrel to close it up slightly. I've closed up the inner coil in a mainspring a lot bigger than the one your having problems with without having to heat the coil. First get a piece of brass wire or steel rod about half three quarters the size of the barrel arbor. This is placed in the inner coil so you don't crush or kink the inner coil of the spring, then with sturdy tweezers (carbon steel) start pinching the inner coil in various places around the inner coil. Be even in your pinching. It will take about 10 minutes or so, but it will slowly work the inner coil slightly smaller to fit the arbor. You'll be surprised at how much it will close that coil. You can't close it that much, but enough for what you require judging by your photo of the coil and arbor in situ. Take your time and make sure you always use the brass wire to not over do it. Be careful, as @Neverenoughwatcheshas already pointed out, not to scratch up the barrel or arbor hole/bush in the barrel. Very easily done, as it is soft brass. I'm sure you will close it up enough to grip the arbor. I've closed up inner coils much bigger than yours.

Make sure you use a rod of steel or brass to stop the tweezers from completely crushing the inner coil. This part is imperative to the process, so don't overlook it, thinking that you will have control to how much your squeezing that coil with your tweezers, because that's where it all starts to go downhill and next thing you've got a fooked mainspring that is no good to man nor beast. Been there, done that, got the T shirt!

Let us know how you got on.

I have real hard beech pegwood. I assume that would be sufficient?  If it's just to brace the thing with.  Great idea though for the technique. Seems simple enough

 

Also I just checked the Link, that's actually the same spring I'm using I believe. Cousins does sell it. General resorts 2377x

Edited March 3 by Birbdad

[Birbdad]

12 hours ago, Jon said:

 

@Birbdadyou can manipulate that spring you have already in the barrel to close it up slightly. I've closed up the inner coil in a mainspring a lot bigger than the one your having problems with without having to heat the coil. First get a piece of brass wire or steel rod about half three quarters the size of the barrel arbor. This is placed in the inner coil so you don't crush or kink the inner coil of the spring, then with sturdy tweezers (carbon steel) start pinching the inner coil in various places around the inner coil. Be even in your pinching. It will take about 10 minutes or so, but it will slowly work the inner coil slightly smaller to fit the arbor. You'll be surprised at how much it will close that coil. You can't close it that much, but enough for what you require judging by your photo of the coil and arbor in situ. Take your time and make sure you always use the brass wire to not over do it. Be careful, as @Neverenoughwatcheshas already pointed out, not to scratch up the barrel or arbor hole/bush in the barrel. Very easily done, as it is soft brass. I'm sure you will close it up enough to grip the arbor. I've closed up inner coils much bigger than yours.

Make sure you use a rod of steel or brass to stop the tweezers from completely crushing the inner coil. This part is imperative to the process, so don't overlook it, thinking that you will have control to how much your squeezing that coil with your tweezers, because that's where it all starts to go downhill and next thing you've got a fooked mainspring that is no good to man nor beast. Been there, done that, got the T shirt!

Let us know how you got on.

So how i got on...good and bad.
Bad:  First time i tried the thing leaped out of the barrel somehow. Put it in mainspring winder, mainspring winder ate it. Second try It leaped out of the washer. Tried to pack it by hand, Packed it by hand the bridle in the wrong direction, destroyed the thing XD. I feel like an idiot.

The good: I tried on my THIRD backup mainspring, in the washer, kept it from leaping out by doing it over my cutting mat instead of my fancy bergeon matt so i wasn't so paranoid about gouging holes and tearing it up with my tweezers so the spring in the washer could lay flat. It worked like a charm! This is a great technique, no annealing, very safe! Kudos for sharing it with us!

[Jon]

16 hours ago, Birbdad said:

4 hours ago, Birbdad said:

It worked like a charm! This is a great technique, no annealing, very safe! Kudos for sharing it with us!

so I just checked the Link, that's actually the same spring I'm using I believe. Cousins does sell it. General resorts 2377x

It's not the same spring, trust me. Cousins sell this 0.95 x .12 x 400 x 10.5 Automatic

Gleave sell this 0.95 x .115 x 380 x 10

So glad it worked for you! I knew you would get there and the next time you'll nail it first time from the experiences you've had. Failure is always my best teacher.

[Birbdad]

9 hours ago, Jon said:

It's not the same spring, trust me. Cousins sell this 0.95 x .12 x 400 x 10.5 Automatic

Gleave sell this 0.95 x .115 x 380 x 10

So glad it worked for you! I knew you would get there and the next time you'll nail it first time from the experiences you've had. Failure is always my best teacher.

According to the page it's the gr2377X, same as the one i used. Cousins also lists the GR2377X as the correct spring for the 7009.

 

And yeah, the biggest tip i can give is don't try to do this in the barrel, the spring will either jump out of it as you carefully try to avoid marring the barrel, or you'll mar the barrel.

 

[Neverenoughwatches]

15 minutes ago, Birbdad said:

According to the page it's the gr2377X, same as the one i used. Cousins also lists the GR2377X as the correct spring for the 7009.

 

And yeah, the biggest tip i can give is don't try to do this in the barrel, the spring will either jump out of it as you carefully try to avoid marring the barrel, or you'll mar the barrel.

 

Its just not worth trying to cut corners with any process. I get this all the time at work with young uns.  Instead of taking a step back so they can move forward , they push on carelessly and  are then forced back multiple steps. Pleased you got it figured out.

[Jon]

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

According to the page it's the gr2377X, same as the one i used. Cousins also lists the GR2377X as the correct spring for the 7009.

I didn't buy a 2377X off Gleave and Co., I bought an original Seiko 7009 spring from them which isn't a GR spring, so it fitted like a glove. Sometimes they will advertise a spring that isn't the size it really is. Check out the mainspring from Gleave and Cousins for an ETA 2824-2. They're not advertised as the same size, but the same GR number

https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?searchTerm=gr3149x

https://gleave.london/search.php?search_query=eta 2824-2 mainspring&section=product

Edited March 4 by Jon

[Birbdad]

37 minutes ago, Jon said:

I didn't buy a 2377X off Gleave and Co., I bought an original Seiko 7009 spring from them which isn't a GR spring, so it fitted like a glove. Sometimes they will advertise a spring that isn't the size it really is. Check out the mainspring from Gleave and Cousins for an ETA 2824-2. They're not advertised as the same size, but the same GR number

https://www.cousinsuk.com/search?searchTerm=gr3149x

https://gleave.london/search.php?search_query=eta 2824-2 mainspring&section=product

Not to belabor this too much but the GR in the product code i'm 99% sure stands for Générale Ressorts, which is the big manufacturer of generic high quality mainsprings in switzerland. https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/gr2377x That is the same product number on cousins as the one you linked to. gr2377x which is a generale ressorts product code. 

It doesn't say a manufacturer for that eta mainspring on your site but if i search the same product code on cousins it's a Generale ressorts mainspring. https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/gr3149x This isn't a bad thing, from what i hear they're the best in the business. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Its just not worth trying to cut corners with any process. I get this all the time at work with young uns.  Instead of taking a step back so they can move forward , they push on carelessly and  are then forced back multiple steps. Pleased you got it figured out.

I wasn't trying to cut any corners. Since multiple people recommended that mainspring it didn't occur to me the inner coil would be so big the entire arbor falls through it. I inserted it into the barrel before even realizing. I then tried to adjust it in the barrel because my mainspring winder has been eating these short seiko mainsprings like crazy lately and i couldn't figure out why.....then after it ate it's 3rd one last night i realized why and posted about it in another thread. I feel like an idiot lol.

[Curare]

I serviced and repaired a 4006A last year, I ended up breaking the mainspring eye, because it was too large for my mainspring winder, tried to squeeze it tighter without annealing as I found out later is the correct way.

I purchased GR2378X for the mainspring and GR40781 for the alarm barrel.

The GR2378X eyelet was way to large for the 4006A arbour, and I broke it too trying to squeeze it to make it smaller.

So this spring is unsiutable in its standard form.

The GR40781 eyelet was too small for the alarm arbour, but I managed to get it in with great difficulty, I think I was close to damaging it too.

I solved the mainspring problem by fitting a GR2377X (Seiko 7005 to 7019 series) which is only .01mm thinner than the GR2378X and the eyelet was ideal fit for the 4006A arbour.

The watch after service returned an amplitude of 270 degrees DU/DD which surprised me.

I now loathe buying aftermarket mainsprings as you never know if the arbour is going to fit or not.

Being honest I don't think my skills are up their yet to try and heat up mainspring eyelets and manipulate them to the correct size

Wouldn't be great if the arbour diameters was listed for aftermarket mainsprings ?????? 

Good Luck

[Birbdad]

49 minutes ago, Curare said:

I serviced and repaired a 4006A last year, I ended up breaking the mainspring eye, because it was too large for my mainspring winder, tried to squeeze it tighter without annealing as I found out later is the correct way.

I purchased GR2378X for the mainspring and GR40781 for the alarm barrel.

The GR2378X eyelet was way to large for the 4006A arbour, and I broke it too trying to squeeze it to make it smaller.

So this spring is unsiutable in its standard form.

The GR40781 eyelet was too small for the alarm arbour, but I managed to get it in with great difficulty, I think I was close to damaging it too.

I solved the mainspring problem by fitting a GR2377X (Seiko 7005 to 7019 series) which is only .01mm thinner than the GR2378X and the eyelet was ideal fit for the 4006A arbour.

The watch after service returned an amplitude of 270 degrees DU/DD which surprised me.

I now loathe buying aftermarket mainsprings as you never know if the arbour is going to fit or not.

Being honest I don't think my skills are up their yet to try and heat up mainspring eyelets and manipulate them to the correct size

Wouldn't be great if the arbour diameters was listed for aftermarket mainsprings ?????? 

Good Luck

For one with an eyelet too large read Jon's method of fixing them then read my post of the pitfalls of trying it. It's actually a really easy method. Worked like a charm and is very safe.

[Jon]

15 hours ago, Birbdad said:

Not to belabor this too much but the GR in the product code i'm 99% sure stands for Générale Ressorts, which is the big manufacturer of generic high quality mainsprings in switzerland. https://www.cousinsuk.com/sku/details/mainsprings-by-list-watch-pocket/gr2377x That is the same product number on cousins as the one you linked to. gr2377x which is a generale ressorts product code. 

I don't take it like that, so no worries. I understand that both Cousins and Gleave advertise the same GR mainspring as 2377X, but the point I'm making is sometimes what mainspring advertised isn't what is sold. That's why I said about the mainspring for the ETA 2824-2. So, Cousins have that spring as a GR57162 which is  1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.5. Gleave and Co. have the spring for an ETA 2824-2 as a GR3149X which is advertised as 1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.8 and a GR3149X on Cousins website is down as 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 10.5

Now look at the GR mainspring size table I've attached and it says a GR57162 is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12 and the GR 3149X is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12

There is a lot of conflicting information right there!

So, when I bought a mainspring from Gleave and Co. for the 7S26C, I actually bought an original Seiko 7009 spring from them and not a GR spring that they advertise, now I don't know what Gleave and Co. will actually send you here and now today, but last year it wasn't what they advertise now as the spring needed. You can email or phone them and ask for an original Seiko spring if they still have them.

I've bought springs from Cousins in the past and when measured they are not the size that was advertised, so I'm assuming that people assume what they have been sold is what was advertised and what they require, which isn't always the case. 99.5% of the time I buy my mainsprings from Gleave and Co. and so do many watchmakers here in London, because if there is a problem with the wrong size being advertised or being received they will sort it out, where as Cousins more than likely won't, because they believe that they sent you the correct spring from the start and once the spring is out of its retaining ring, all bets are off, so to speak. Those same watchmakers, who I personally know, have been through all this with Cousins, so don't really bother with that kind of crap shoot anymore and rely on Gleave and Co. not to make those kind of mistakes.

I think what I have said is a pretty important issue that many aren't aware about, especially when the springs inner coil won't fit the arbor and several springs are trashed in the process.

I always tell my students, 'Never make assumptions!' Unless someone is measuring the dimensions of the mainspring, then don't assume it is the correct size just because someone says it is and relying on a sticker with a GR number on it that has been put on the packet by the seller. 

11 hours ago, Curare said:

I now loathe buying aftermarket mainsprings as you never know if the arbour is going to fit or not.

Me too!

[RichardHarris123]

1 hour ago, Jon said:

Never make assumptions!'

I was taught the same and I apply it to most things but it never occurred to me to apply it to mainsprings. Learnt something new yet again. 

[Birbdad]

13 hours ago, Jon said:

I don't take it like that, so no worries. I understand that both Cousins and Gleave advertise the same GR mainspring as 2377X, but the point I'm making is sometimes what mainspring advertised isn't what is sold. That's why I said about the mainspring for the ETA 2824-2. So, Cousins have that spring as a GR57162 which is  1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.5. Gleave and Co. have the spring for an ETA 2824-2 as a GR3149X which is advertised as 1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.8 and a GR3149X on Cousins website is down as 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 10.5

Now look at the GR mainspring size table I've attached and it says a GR57162 is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12 and the GR 3149X is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12

There is a lot of conflicting information right there!

So, when I bought a mainspring from Gleave and Co. for the 7S26C, I actually bought an original Seiko 7009 spring from them and not a GR spring that they advertise, now I don't know what Gleave and Co. will actually send you here and now today, but last year it wasn't what they advertise now as the spring needed. You can email or phone them and ask for an original Seiko spring if they still have them.

I've bought springs from Cousins in the past and when measured they are not the size that was advertised, so I'm assuming that people assume what they have been sold is what was advertised and what they require, which isn't always the case. 99.5% of the time I buy my mainsprings from Gleave and Co. and so do many watchmakers here in London, because if there is a problem with the wrong size being advertised or being received they will sort it out, where as Cousins more than likely won't, because they believe that they sent you the correct spring from the start and once the spring is out of its retaining ring, all bets are off, so to speak. Those same watchmakers, who I personally know, have been through all this with Cousins, so don't really bother with that kind of crap shoot anymore and rely on Gleave and Co. not to make those kind of mistakes.

I think what I have said is a pretty important issue that many aren't aware about, especially when the springs inner coil won't fit the arbor and several springs are trashed in the process.

I always tell my students, 'Never make assumptions!' Unless someone is measuring the dimensions of the mainspring, then don't assume it is the correct size just because someone says it is and relying on a sticker with a GR number on it that has been put on the packet by the seller. 

Me too!

That is bizarre...So on the gleave and co website what they advertise with as a GR part with a GR product number is not a GR product but instead a totally different product? 

Because iirc that GR spring is also listed to specifically fit the 7009 on cousins, and somebody here mentioned it's what he uses for 7s26 (And no mention of having to do as much work as i did on the inner coil. I know the arbor pivot is a different size on the 7s26b variant i'm working on right now so i have no clue if the arbor dimensions itself are smaller.) I do know the barrel complete is a different part number for the B than C, maybe the mainspring is a different part as well? I have no idea. I Just know this sucks and sourcing parts is always confusing for me.

I also find it utterly bizarre how pervasive this problem is with springs having inner coils that don't fit common arbors that inner coil size isn't a measurement that's even listed. I NEVER hear about watchmakers having to anneal and reshape inner coils  but is this just a thing they're CONSTANTLY doing on vintage watches for which original mainsprings don't exist?

Edited March 6 by Birbdad

[Neverenoughwatches]

14 hours ago, Jon said:

I don't take it like that, so no worries. I understand that both Cousins and Gleave advertise the same GR mainspring as 2377X, but the point I'm making is sometimes what mainspring advertised isn't what is sold. That's why I said about the mainspring for the ETA 2824-2. So, Cousins have that spring as a GR57162 which is  1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.5. Gleave and Co. have the spring for an ETA 2824-2 as a GR3149X which is advertised as 1.23 x .134 x 400 x 10.8 and a GR3149X on Cousins website is down as 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 10.5

Now look at the GR mainspring size table I've attached and it says a GR57162 is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12 and the GR 3149X is 1.25 x .125 x 420 x 12

There is a lot of conflicting information right there!

So, when I bought a mainspring from Gleave and Co. for the 7S26C, I actually bought an original Seiko 7009 spring from them and not a GR spring that they advertise, now I don't know what Gleave and Co. will actually send you here and now today, but last year it wasn't what they advertise now as the spring needed. You can email or phone them and ask for an original Seiko spring if they still have them.

I've bought springs from Cousins in the past and when measured they are not the size that was advertised, so I'm assuming that people assume what they have been sold is what was advertised and what they require, which isn't always the case. 99.5% of the time I buy my mainsprings from Gleave and Co. and so do many watchmakers here in London, because if there is a problem with the wrong size being advertised or being received they will sort it out, where as Cousins more than likely won't, because they believe that they sent you the correct spring from the start and once the spring is out of its retaining ring, all bets are off, so to speak. Those same watchmakers, who I personally know, have been through all this with Cousins, so don't really bother with that kind of crap shoot anymore and rely on Gleave and Co. not to make those kind of mistakes.

I think what I have said is a pretty important issue that many aren't aware about, especially when the springs inner coil won't fit the arbor and several springs are trashed in the process.

I always tell my students, 'Never make assumptions!' Unless someone is measuring the dimensions of the mainspring, then don't assume it is the correct size just because someone says it is and relying on a sticker with a GR number on it that has been put on the packet by the seller. 

Me too!

Is that your re-spec GR list for cousins orders Jon, I'm glad you understand

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

. I NEVER hear about watchmakers having to anneal and reshape inner coils  but is this just a thing they're CONSTANTLY doing on vintage watches for which original mainsprings don't exist?

I hear about now and then and have reduced a few myself so yep its a thing, constantly?  depends how many watches you repair.

1 hour ago, Birbdad said:

That is bizarre...So on the gleave and co website what they advertise with as a GR part with a GR product number is not a GR product but instead a totally different product? 

 

15 hours ago, Jon said:

now I don't know what Gleave and Co. will actually send you here and now today, but last year it wasn't what they advertise now as the spring needed. You can email or phone them and ask for an original Seiko spring if they still have them.

 

[Birbdad]

On 2/14/2024 at 3:47 AM, mikepilk said:

The 4006 mainspring is GR2378X as shown by Cousins (which agrees with the GR database).

I downloaded all the GR database PDFs from Cousins, but the spreadsheet is much easier, or go online here 

https://watchguy.co.uk/cgi-bin/mainsprings

I can't find any reference to the alarm spring. I have two BellMatics and didn't have to change either alarm spring, so didn't measure them.  Just use your measurements (are you sure about your thickness, it doesn't agree with the GR database?).   As it's only ringing the alarm you don't need to be an exact match.

People have listed various springs to use for 7S26. My last one, I used GR2377X

So i finished my train side oiling and let it run overnight and i'm getting absolutely abysmal amplitude. I'm gonna fault find today and maybe re-oil the arbor and see why i'm getting a weird signal on the timegrapher that looks like something's caught in the escapement but what amplitude do you typically get with the gr2377x? My watch can't even crack 200 so far.

[Jon]

You should be seeing an amplitude of 270 plus with the 0.95 x .12 x 400 spring, but, and this is a big but, if this movement hasn't been serviced in 10 to 20 plus years, which most watches of this type haven't been because it isn't cost effective, there may be some worn parts creating the drag through the wheel train

[Birbdad]

6 minutes ago, Jon said:

You should be seeing an amplitude of 270 plus with the 0.95 x .12 x 400 spring, but, and this is a big but, if this movement hasn't been serviced in 10 to 20 plus years, which most watches of this type haven't been because it isn't cost effective, there may be some worn parts creating the drag through the wheel train

So part of what i'm wondering is if i went a little heavy on the breaking grease? There's so few really good visual tutorials of how much to use. Most of the ones i see and the way i did it in the past was 5 small blobs from a black oiler in the rim of the barrel. But i'm noticing i can't really feel the bridal slipping like i normally do when i wind this thing to full and it perhaps feels like there's less resistance than there should be at full wind.

Does that sound plausible? The bridle might be slipping just constantly not allowing a proper wind? I dunno. 

 

The rest of the movement seems fine and it was performing decent before i did this service. It's only about a decade old maybe and i'm the original owner. I didn't service it cuz it wasn't running well I did it because it was about 5 years past it's service interval.

[Birbdad]

I'm at a total loss here. The only thing i can think of is that i did a poor job greasing the barrel. I had a perfectly working movement, serviced it like iv'e done a dozen of em and now it looks like this. Cleaned and relubed my escapement it somehow made the signal a little worse, relubed my arbor and it lowered my amplitude somehow. This brings back some bad memories from my very first service. I"m just at a loss at this point. What's baffling is the balance spins freely with no power and the movement assembled, THe train spins freely with a little air puff with the pallet fork out. 

Is there any good reference here or you guys can point me to to perfectly apply the breaking grease to a barrel? I'm using mobius 8217, i've used it before and it worked fine with stock seiko springs but i've only serviced a few barrels, usually i just reuse or replace and don't have issues but it's definitely the thing in this process i'm less experienced at. 

 

One thing that is very noticable is that winding the movement by hand there is noticeably little resistance vs when i used stock seiko springs. I can't feel the bridle slip at all when it hits full wind. That's gotta be where i should be looking. Everything else seems fine.

 

Edited March 13 by Birbdad

[aac58]

The documented Lift Angle for a Seiko 4006 movement is 58.4º, please use that LA in the timegrapher and report back the results.

If you suspect of how you applied the braking grease, I'd check the power reserve to verify if that's the problem. 4006 amplitude is usually quite high for a Seiko movement (probably because the 58.4º is probably wrong, and 48.4º seems to be the correct LA) so to get less than 200º the power reserve should also be very poor if the cause is the braking grease.

Edited March 13 by aac58

[Birbdad]

5 minutes ago, aac58 said:

If you suspect of how you applied the braking grease, I'd check the power reserve to verify if that's the problem. 4006 amplitude is usually quite high for a Seiko movement (probably because the documented lift angle is 58.4º which seems to be incorrect, being 48.4º the probable correct LA) so to get less than 200º the power reserve should also be very poor if the cause is the braking grease.

Oh this is a 7s26. I've done a ton of these and generally i can do them in my sleep. This is my first time working on one and putting in a generic mainspring. 

I usually get 270 to 285 amplitude in them.

[aac58]

2 minutes ago, Birbdad said:

Oh this is a 7s26. I've done a ton of these and generally i can do them in my sleep. This is my first time working on one and putting in a generic mainspring. 

I usually get 270 to 285 amplitude in them.

Oops, sorry then, I don't know why I thought it was a 4006

Whoever, the power reserve check still aplies for a breakinggrease problem.

Edited March 13 by aac58

[Birbdad]

9 minutes ago, aac58 said:

Oops, sorry then, I don't know why I thought it was a 4006

Whoever, the power reserve check still aplies for a breakinggrease problem.

Appreciate ya. So considering this is a brand new generic mainspring widely used AND specifically listed as the correct one on cousins for the 7009 (Which uses the same one as 7s26). I do think it's a power reserve issue but i've asked multiple times what would likely be the cause of this if it's improper barrel servicing. 

Would applying too much braking grease or too little decrease amplitude by this much? 

 

Also i have a 4006 i was planning to work on soon as i did my like...12th easy service of a 7s26 lol. Now here i am struggling to get one to run right for the first time since my first ever service.

Edited March 13 by Birbdad

[aac58]

how much does the power reserve last from a full wind? Amplitude will be affected if the MS slips very early, and also the power reserve, that's why I suggest taking a look on that. If the power reserve is above 30 hours then it's not a slipping problem.

Edited March 13 by aac58

[nevenbekriev]

Yes, the power reserve. But it needs time to see it. There is much faster way to see if the bridle is slipping - that is to count the turns of the ratchet wheel when releasing the spring after it has been fully wound. They should be 6 or about. Removing of the auto works is needed first

[Birbdad]

13 hours ago, aac58 said:

how much does the power reserve last from a full wind? Amplitude will be affected if the MS slips very early, and also the power reserve, that's why I suggest taking a look on that. If the power reserve is above 30 hours then it's not a slipping problem.

So that's what i'm trying to get to the bottom of. I'm 95% sure the bridle is slipping WAY too early but getting conflicting answers in the other places i post at as to what causes that, too much or too little breaking grease. People seem to have...conflicting ideas of what braking grease even does so now i'm not even so sure. 

7 hours ago, nevenbekriev said:

Yes, the power reserve. But it needs time to see it. There is much faster way to see if the bridle is slipping - that is to count the turns of the ratchet wheel when releasing the spring after it has been fully wound. They should be 6 or about. Removing of the auto works is needed first

That's what's throwing me off. I can't even tell when it's fully wound, the bridle best i can tell is slipping super early and i can't even feel it. Usually i can tell a seiko is fully wound when i feel the bridle slip. I just wound it like 15 full turns and it just keeps winding.