Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

This is my first post. I have undertaken to service/repair two family heirloom clocks. One, an Ansonia crystal regulator,  is running  and looking great after cleaning and oiling. The other, a cuckoo clock with a 1908 patented Eduard Heer movement,  has a broken escape wheel tooth. Unfortunately I missed the problem and discovered it on reassembly.

 I need advice on how to proceed as the actual repair is beyond my ability. Is it likely to find a replacement part or perhaps a parts movement? As an alternative is there someone who could repair the escape wheel?


any advice would be greatly appreciated as it is a beautiful clock and a family heirloom.

Posted

Hi Jack. Welcome to the forum.   Can you post some pictures of the clock please.  Repairing the wheel is not impossible but would be time consuming  so may be a donor clock if you can find one.  Where are you located. US or the UK.

Posted

The movement is marked DRGM 329239. An internet source listed the patent holder was Eduard Heer on 1/18/08. Seems likely that he was a relative of Hubert Heer. There is no indication of what the patent was for so many parts may be the same between the Hubert and Eduard Heer movements. Just a speculative possibility.

Thanks for your reply and any additional thoughts you may have.

 

 

 

I am located in the US.

here are a couple of photos of the movement after a quick bath to see what I was working with.  It must have been broken early in its life as  there does not appear to be any discernible wear. I don’t know the earliest history of the clock but it has been in storage for at least 75 years.

IMG_0528.jpeg

IMG_0521.jpeg

Posted

A qualified clock maker can cut and insert a piece of brass and shape it to size to make it complete or the other alternative is to cut a complete new escape wheel, but he will have to match the old brass to make a really good job.  On close inspection it looks like cast brass so it should never be cleaned in any ultrasonic cleaning tank, it must be cleaned by hand. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi. Old Hippy is correct it’s either a repair of the old one or a re cut wheel, either is not going to be a cheapie. There are clock makers around who are able and are tooled up to cut wheels it will be a matter of research I am afraid.  Good luck

Posted

Thanks  for for your replies. It would be a shame to leave such an interesting old clock banished to the attic. I expect such precision work would be expensive. Any rough idea  of  the price I could expect?

Posted

Hi. It would be difficult to estimate as they would very much quote different prices.  I have repaired wheels by cutting out the bad section and soldering in a new bit then re cutting the teeth. Time consuming. My method was to scan copy the old wheel as a pattern and stick it over the old wheel then cut the profile in the rough and file /stone it ti its final shape. With an escape wheel although the gaps are bigger than a conventional wheel it will need better precision and finish so as not to get the anchor mislocking.

Posted
1 hour ago, Jack1845 said:

Thanks  for for your replies. It would be a shame to leave such an interesting old clock banished to the attic. I expect such precision work would be expensive. Any rough idea  of  the price I could expect?

Take it to a clock maker and ask for an estimate and make sure the work is done on the premises, what guarantee he provides such as how long and how long will the work take. 

Posted
13 hours ago, Jack1845 said:

Thanks  for for your replies. It would be a shame to leave such an interesting old clock banished to the attic. I expect such precision work would be expensive. Any rough idea  of  the price I could expect?

Hi there, if no reasonable decision closer to You, I will try to find time to make new table for the wheel and send it by post.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I believe @nickelsilver has a setup like that.
    • I posted pictures earlier in this thread. My lathe and mill are two separate instruments. I think I have seen examples of putting a milling head on a lathe bed...but not certain.
    • Timex Camper, September 1994, new to me. Strap is an old perlon with "Germany" in script etched into the resin on the tail end. Not Horlon or Eulit I believe. History unknown, running strong, losing less than a minute a day. Goals for this: Wear it a ton! Buy crystal lift, clean out the gunk around the ring and under the crystal Eventually swap into a stainless steel case. I've seen a member who has swapped a Timex mechanical movement into the Timex J.Crew quartz field watch case.
    • One of the problems we would have with a watchmaker's lathe is they were made over considerable span of time and manufacturing in the early days probably wasn't as good as it was today. Then if you look at the older catalogs typically it was just the head a few collets and something to rest graver on. So basically a basic lathe with over time things acquired but acquired things may or may not fit. Order today you purchase a used lathe that all kinds of nifty bits and pieces from a seller that acquired from? This would come back to that the basic watchmaker's lathe was used for basic watchmaking like turning things with a hand graver. Then limited indexing is fine because you can make things like stems Which don't need a whole bunch indexing   In the link above the word vector is mentioned and at the link below you can purchase one. Then of course you're going to need the motor that's a little bit extra for the price. https://www.hswalsh.com/product/lathe-vector-watchmakers-48-collets-hl11. That you're going to need some bonus parts like these found this picture online show the classic way of classic gear cutting.   The lathe could have a much bigger indexing disk but it has to be mounted close to the edge. Otherwise you're going to have a whole bunch of smaller disks like this which I think has notches rather than holes. Then as wonderful as these pictures look actually cutting a gear with this is not entirely fun. Look at all is belts all pulling on things and this is a watchmaker's lathe lightweight with lots of bits and pieces attached. It would make more sense if you actually cut a gear with something like this and it tends to be it's not really the best way to do it looks nice on paper but it is not the best way to go. Reality for cutting watch parts would be a bigger machine is much better. Than getting rid of all those belts and pulleys also good. Here is an interesting channel I would've liked of found a different video but this was nice and short if you look at his video as he uses a stepping motor and worm gear assembly for the indexing plate. In this particular video it gets attached to the lathe at about one minute and seven seconds and it looks like it's hiding looks like he has a Sherline. I do know he's had other stuff you'll just have to go through his videos to find it. Then at about one minute and 22 seconds you find out if you set up things appropriately. It's always bad we end up with half a tooth at the very end. Then you will note big lathe yes he's getting a big gear but you could easily cut a watch gear with the setup. And it definitely way more stable than a watchmaker's lathe.         Oh here's a company they been in business since 1911 http://www.fwderbyshireinc.com/  
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
×
×
  • Create New...