Jump to content

Introducing my vintage Glashütte watch cleaning machine. Video and Report included!


Recommended Posts

Hi to anyone who is interested getting to know a  cleaning machine which is not a Elma or one of the other usual names!

since I`ve had my watch cleaning machine for about a year now, I wanted to introduce it since its not something that is seen very often!

Here's a short video for those who don't feel like reading through everything below where I summaraize everything and show its function, settings and the rest:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hhNwU6risSo&lc=Ugw1n_nEOT2mDSkHEaB4AaABAg

Watch cleaning machine from VEB Glashütte

DSC08597.thumb.JPG.53fe68b993fac547bf409d76d4acf1f8.JPG

1. View in its  lowered and raised state.

C0494-frameat0m13s.thumb.jpg.8e7d0f3bf104aa91a0790d2a33371150.jpg

2. Name plate with the reference to the DDR Peoples watch and machine factory in today's Glashütte Sachs.

 

I acquired this beauty in Dresden from a former apprentice out of the German watchmaking town of Glashütte. At the time I had become interested in the profession and the cleaning machine was my first major investment in a machine from the profession. At its core this machine, just like many other vintage machines, is a hand-turning machine where you still have to manually lift and turn the upper disc, where the rubber sealing rings and the motor hang, from one one position into the next after each washing stage to change the cleaning jars and fluids

What I particularly like about the machine is its somewhat more "solid" construction compared to conventional vintage machines. For example, the machine has an external guide in the form of a rod that leads the upper plate into position. Another feature is the size and weight of the two disks that make up the main part of this tool. In addition, I must say that I also find the stepped shape of the cleaning glasses and the compact size of the cleaning basket very aesthetically pleasing.

The machine is in good condition and I have often started it up to clean the movements which I was working on. However, time has of course not left it untouched. In addition to the somewhat superficial defects such as the some painnt and lacquer peeling off, I noticed relatively quickly that the rubber washers on the upper plate do not all lie flat on the glasses when lowered, which means that the smell of the cleaning fluids cannot be isolated in their respective glasses. I have also noticed that the glasses are starting to have minimal hairline cracks in their shapes. I will probably have to buy a modern alternatives or invest in another machine in the event of a complete shattering. Ultimately, the only disadvantage of this machine, in my opinion compared to other vintage machines, is the lack of a drying system. Until now, I have always used a hairdryer to dry the cleaning basket after the three washes. Thats a bit inconvenient!

Overall though, I am extremely pleased with the look and function of this old watch movement cleaner and am extremely proud to be an owner of such a practical piece of history!

If you have any questions, comments of thoughts I would be happy to read and answer them in the comments!

Here are two more pictures:

DSC08580.thumb.JPG.70a7a8cb2e1d20a71d6cba57e8672938.JPG

3. View of the washers and the basket mount.

DSC08579.thumb.JPG.d15af1897c70c66457f57c149c24aa01.JPG

4. Size and aesthetics of the cleaning basket.

DSC08600.JPG

Edited by berlintime
minor phrasing change
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could fabricate a dryer and locate it at that notched out portion of the base.  I made one from a 12V PTC car heater and a 3D printed stand and shroud (in ABS) for my DIY cleaning machine.  It has worked well and parts come out rather toasty.  The shroud may not be necessary, as the heater unit has a fan to blow the hot air up.

20231202_102110.jpg

20231202_102120.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It looks like the canon pinion function is part of this great wheel. The pinion nearest the clip runs the minute wheel on the dual side. The pinion nearest the wheel is driven by a small wheel from under the setting lever cover plate that engages in hand setting position.    So when assembled the crown was driving the whole great train. Does this mean the pinions are too tight? Should I attempt to disassemble this great wheel and lubricants?
    • Picking up this side-tracked post again as I just removed a balance staff of a 1920's Omega (35,5L-T1) I was impressed by the way @Delgetti had his setup when he had to change out a balance-staff (https://www.watchrepairtalk.com/topic/28854-new-balance-staff-not-riveting-to-balance/page/2/#comment-244054 Not only that, but also the idea of removing the seat first before punching the staff out from the seat-side, avoiding the whole discussion of the rivet yes/no enlarging the hole. I didn't have the fancy clamps & tools Delgetti has, so I used my screw-head polishing tool. Initially I used #1500 grit diamond paste on the steel wheel, which kinda worked, but very slow. I changed to #800 grit diamond paste, which worked better, but still slow. Then I glued #240 sanding paper to the steel disk; That worked and the disk was hand-driven. Once close to the balance wheel, I took the sanding paper off and continued with #800 diamond paste. One can only do this when the balance wheel sits true on the staff and has no "wobble". I went on grinding until I saw some diamond paste on the rim of the balance wheel. This was as far as I could grind and it seemed that there wasn't much left of the seat. Carefully, with my staking set, I knocked the staff from the seat-side out. Turns out that the thickness of the seat left, now a small ring, was only 0.1mm. The balance wheel hole is in perfect shape and no damage done to the wheel at all. Of course, if the wheel has a "wobble" or isn't seated true on the balance staff, you can't get as close and there will be more left of the seat. In my case, it worked perfect 🙂 I'm very happy how this method worked out ! 😊  
    • As is tradition, one step forward, two steps back. Got the board populated and soldered into place without any issues.   But no hum. So I started testing the coils with an ohmmeter. I got 5.84k ohms across D1 (from red to red in the picture below), which is as expected. But I'm getting an open circuit for the other drive coil and feedback coil, D2 and F1 (from green to each of the two yellows).   Since the movement was working with my breadboard setup, it implies I somehow broke the connection between the coils and the solder lugs. They're all the way at the bottom of the lugs, but maybe the heat migrated down and broke the connections? I guess it's possible it happened while cleaning the flux off, but I used a soft artist's brush and isopropyl alcohol. I did a lot of high magnification examination, and I don't see any issues, but let me know if you see anything I missed or if you can think of anything else I should check.
    • 1947 NOS Ambassador 'C'. Actually, the case came without the movement so the movement isn't NOS, but she sure is pretty.
    • Hi attached is the AS 20XX. Service sheet although there is no 2063 mentioned it may be of some use to you AS_AS 2060,1,2,6,4,6.pdf
×
×
  • Create New...