Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Did not know where to post this but here. This is more of a heads up that anything else but if anyone  can help thanks. I have a FHF-96 N movement and after destroying the center wheel (I had it in my pin vise and the pin vise roll off of my table hitting my hardwood floor you can guess the rest) In looking at this https://oldswisswatches.com/watch-parts-branded/standard-st-calibre-movement-and-spare-parts/standard-st-96-n/  I see the part number as 206 so I find one and order it. After I clean it even though it was a NOS part and in it's factory sealed box and after  installing it and then the bridge I could see something is not right the pivot is not coming up far enough into the jewel. So I took it back out and look at it and the old one side by side under my microscope I can now see what the problem is. On the old one the pivot is longer and also the gear is longer which I'm not sure if that matters or not but the pivot is too short.  The box the new one came in dose say 206 so I don't know what's up or what I'm going to do next. Just though I put this out here in case someone ran into this before or may happen to them.

2020_0722_141302_001.JPG

Edited by wudce
Posted

 The center wheel  with longer center tube is for  variants of ST96 with date or date/day complications, as date ring takes space which increase the hight of the movement thus longer center tube. 

Rgds

  • Like 2
Posted

Maybe a little off topic, but I find buying a whole used movement from ebay often works out cheaper (in the long run) than buying an individual new part(s), depending on what it is of course. The added advantage of this is that you get the unused parts for free and can maybe use them in the future. On more than one occasion I have needed part X only to find out later in the build that I also need parts Y and Z, luckily the movement I ordered will have these parts and I don't need to return to suppliers to order the additional parts. This is especially attractive to me due to the fact that based where I live it can take two or three weeks to get the part from the supplier to my door, therefore needing one part and then another and then another.... could delay a build months.

There is a risk of course that you may end up with a movement with the part(s) you want missing or damaged, but it's usually worth the gamble in my experience.

  • Like 1
Posted

Was trying to stay away from buying another movement but may have to. Still is strange what is going on why the data sheet say what it dose yet the part is not the same.😒

Posted

It is common for center wheel heights to vary, especially with movements that are used in a variety of different watches.

It's just something that you have to be aware of, and even when ordering a new movement you should know what center wheel height you need. 

Best thing to do is to measure the height of the one you are trying to replace, and then verify the new part before ordering.

Cheers!

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, wudce said:

 On the old one the pivot is longer and also the gear is longer 

You say the gear is longer, do you mean the pinion is longer ?   the gear and  center tube is one piece and is called pinion ?  The new one can be replaced with the old, do you have a staking set? 

 

 

Edited by Nucejoe
Posted

You can clearly see from photo the new is not long enough to allow it to come up into the jewel. Not sure what can be done with a staking set but yes I have one.  

Posted (edited)
38 minutes ago, wudce said:

You can clearly see from photo the new is not long enough to allow it to come up into the jewel. Not sure what can be done with a staking set but yes I have one.  

I'm having a go at making the old wheel flat if bent is the only issue...and the wheel is probably friction fit on the pinion so I suspect Nucejoe's 'the new replaced with the old' is swapping out the bent wheel for the new one on the correct sized pinion. 

Edited by rehajm
  • Like 1
Posted

Just as rehajm expained, 

The (  center tube &  pinion  )   is one only piece which is friction fitted onto the gear, and is removable.

 YOU CAN FIT THE LONG TUBE  ONTO THE NEW GEAR.

While you have the long tube removed, you have good access to polish its pinion leaves.

Good luck

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

 Needless to say, you should measure and make sure both center tube have the same diameter.

Let us see a picture of the new gear center hole after you took its center tube off.

Rgds

Posted

The easiest thing to be done is to straighten and true the old original wheel. Of course, if it is just bent, with no broken spokes and no out of round.

The wheels consists of table and pinion. Table is the brass part, pinion is the part made of steel. They are riveted together. Separating them is possible, but then connecting them together is a little problematic - the hole of the table deforms, the riveted part of the pinion must be turned back by rolling on lathe, and in the end - risk of excentric coupling exists.

Posted

Been making some head way on trying to  straightening it but it's slow going and I know it will never be 100% right. As far as removing the parts and trying to refit them well that's well outside of my exp level😢

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • A helpful way in aid of assembly is to place all the wheels in their respective places, place to plate on the top and fit a couple of the nuts onto the pillars. This stops all the wheels wobbling about as they are lightly held by the plate, you can manoeuvre the pivots into their holes, using a tool , usually home made or can be bought on eBay. I made my own. As the pivots align and fall into place screw the nuts down a bit to keep up the tension on the plate untill all wheels are in place then tighten down sufficiently to keep the plate in place whilst checking the end shake on ALL wheels and their location when all is good only then tighten down the plate.
    • I'd say my Pultra 10 lathe. It is just so well made and everything fits so tightly together.
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy. 
    • Yes, the specific old tools do exist, but may be having one is not needed as they are not cheap, and also You will be able to do without it well enough. My advice will be to use regular depthing tool and adjust it for the exact distance between pallet fork and escape wheel bearings from the watch. Then remove the shellac from the pallet that now doesn't pass the ew teeth and move this pallet in. Then put the pallet fork and ew on the depthing tool and check how they lock. They should not lock when the pallet is in, but You will little by little move the pallet out and locking will appear. Then move just an idea out for reliable work and apply shellac, then check if things are still the same. You have to observe where the teeth fall on the pallets - it must be just a little below the edge between impulse and rest planes. Then You must check how everything behaves in the movement This Potence tool is so ingenious, but actually, the traditional way to do the things is much more simple. Arrange the parts not on the pillar plate, but on the cover plate. Only the central wheel will remain on the pillar plate, secured by the cannon pinion.
    • There is a tool that was made for setting up and adjusting escapements of full plate watches.  There were two styles, the picture below shows both of them.  The lower tool held a movement plate and the vertical pointed rods were adjusted to hold the unsupported pivots of the lever and escape wheel.  There was also a version of this tool that had 3 adjustable safety centres so that the balance pivot could be supported by the tool :  The other version I’m aware of is the Boynton’s Escapement Matching and Examining Tool came as a set of two or three clamps that gripped the watch plate and held the safety centres for the pivots : These do turn up on eBay from time to time.  For some escapement work, you can set up the parts in a regular depthing tool, with the centres set according to the distance between the corresponding pivot holes on the movement.  I hope this helps, Mark
×
×
  • Create New...