Jump to content

Recommended Posts

This watch was worn on the wrist long after the retainer ring broke. I'd like to keep the ring for authenticity but where the ring is broken there is very little material to work with. The material is so thin but I did sand it carefully without deforming. I'm thinking of a careful application of the soldering iron since there's no surface for a copper bond or epoxy but I'm not certain solder will take either. As one French YouTuber would say, it is sooo small!  

What to do you think? I suppose trying to weld it is a possibility but that means new tools...but I'm trying to stay married 😘...

IMG_0516.thumb.jpeg.524be7329e474c8302c52d8b1bbc8085.jpeg

It is sooo small...

IMG_0514.thumb.jpeg.ba5b6b991afc8e6d9f7ee03d90c55116.jpeg

IMG_0102.thumb.jpeg.e3485cef88487478313303548c57efab.jpeg

It's been rubbing in the case and there's damage on the dial, too...

Edited by rehajm
poor spelling
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, watchweasol said:

I think the best option is a soldered bridge piece across the break then cleaned up. A thin brass piece held in place with cross over tweezers a dab of flux and thin electronic solder wire.  A little heat. Job done.

Given how thin the material is I wasn’t confident the added weight of a bridge piece would be an improvement vs creating more surface area for flux and solder. I’ll give it a go- Thank you…

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had an idea awhile back that I have never tried.

The idea is to make these rings from scratch.  Follow me in my Gedankenexperiment.

Start with a flat piece of thin aluminum like the thickness of a coke can.  Cut out the inner diameter.  Then cut out the outer diameter.  What these dimensions are would be trial and error.

Make a die that has a male and female part.  I have sketch some diagrams here.

Then place the aluminum on the female die and press it in using the male piece.  I think the aluminum would stretch, but it might break.  Cant really do it under heat with 3D pieces, would need metal die.

image.png.734f2df9956ea5218813c31b8942a6a2.pngimage.png.a5c4bda2d2c3df05bd0b9697d5a9c94d.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

37 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

Make a die that has a male and female part.

I considered the possibility of having to make something like this if the soldering fails. I think it would work quite well with a bit of brass of similar thickness

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Might that be the viscous nature of oil resisting gravity H  ,  we have been comparing water and hydrophobic surfaces which are similar in principle but water is much less viscous than oil. I guess what we trying to discover is if epilame also has an adhesive trait as well as being oleophobic. 
    • But it also makes it seem less susceptible to gravity. If you place a droplet of oil on an epilame-treated surface the droplet of oil will still stay in place even if you then flip the surface from a horizontal to a vertical position. That is, the oil droplet remains anchored, and that's the purpose of epilame. If it was just a matter of creating an oleophobic surface we could probably use other, less expensive, methods!? I don't know @Waggy but my gut feeling tells me you're spot on (pun intended!). I believe the oleophobic property is a side effect of epilame which is designed to keep the oil anchored.
    • Saturday morning 27/4 Sunday evening 28/4 Monday evening 29/4 Floor has a drain in the middle so I am hoping that there is very little fall on it, if any. Room is about 2.5 x 2.5 metres square. Can only use about 1/2 of one wall on the right of the pictures which has a sliding glass door in it. And only about 3/4 of the wall to the left of the pictures as it has the door to the house in it. Progress. 🙂 
    • This makes much more sense now, the oil is withdrawing itself to make as little contact with the epilame as possible. Same principle as wax on a car creates a hyrophobic surface that makes the cohesive properties of water molecules pull together.  The water beads run off only when under the influence of gravity but still remain cohesively beaded up. And as mentioned earlier a pivot would keep the oil in place on a cap jewel.  Epilame on an escapement would be a different scenario, there is nothing to hold the oil in position if gravity tugs at the bead to move, plus the escape teeth pull the oil about Maybe this is why its suggested to run the watch for a short while to remove the epilame to make two oleophobic surfaces either side of the oil, creating a ring of fire 🔥 around it 😅 The oil is repelled by every surface of the epilame even that which it sits upon. So the oil pulls together to make as little contact with it as possible, but the oil cant float above that area, it can only sit there on top of it. Under gravity the oil could potentially run away as an oil bead, unless the epilame has an adhesive property which i dont think it does ? So something else keeps it in position ie a pivot under a cap jewel . But that isn't the case in a pallet jewel situation. 
    • As with every skill it watchmaking, it takes practice. Notice at the top of the document it says, "Practical work - 40 hours".  I can get the balance wheels 'close enough' to flat, but never seem to get them perfect. Same with gear wheels. Guess I need more practice.
×
×
  • Create New...