Jump to content

Complete Novice Jum/7 Schatz

Samstaffs
 Share

Recommended Posts

Samstaffs New Member

Samstaffs

Posted
Posted

Hi I've just started a repair cafe and one of our volunteers registered in a Schatz Jum/7 clock. We shouldn't have accepted it as we have no expert clock repairers but one of our enthusiastic volunteers decided to have ago! 

Anyway it ended up in bits..... 

We've put part of our back together but was after some help. 

We've noticed one of the wheels pins has snapped off and we believe it had been over wound. 

At the very least we'd like to put this back together or if anyone thinks they can help repair it that would be appreciated. It's not been working for over ten years.

Thanks in advance

IMG_20230416_223956.jpg

IMG_20230415_161710.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

To start with you cannot overwind a clock or a watch. When someone doesn't know what they are doing this sort of thing can happen. These anniversary clocks can be very temperamental to repair. The pivot has been broken off, so a new pivot would have to be made and fitted or a complete new wheel would have to be found. We need to see the complete back plate to I D the clock. It might be possible to find an old movement or the part on ebay. It will cost a lot of money to get this clock working again this will depend on the repair and parts, The suspension spring will need to be replaced (that is the very thin spring with a block at each end and a fork part way down from the top block. In the end It probably won't be worth repairing. I hope you have good insurance that covers you for this type of thing. A new clock will cost over £100 here in the UK with that type of movement. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Samstaffs New Member

Samstaffs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, oldhippy said:

To start with you cannot overwind a clock or a watch. When someone doesn't know what they are doing this sort of thing can happen. These anniversary clocks can be very temperamental to repair. The pivot has been broken off, so a new pivot would have to be made and fitted or a complete new wheel would have to be found. We need to see the complete back plate to I D the clock. It might be possible to find an old movement or the part on ebay. It will cost a lot of money to get this clock working again this will depend on the repair and parts, The suspension spring will need to be replaced (that is the very thin spring with a block at each end and a fork part way down from the top block. In the end It probably won't be worth repairing. I hope you have good insurance that covers you for this type of thing. A new clock will cost over £100 here in the UK with that type of movement. 

Thanks for the feedback.

The pivot was broken before so we will rebuild and hand it back. 

I've attached a photo of the backplate below.

Any help with how to rebuild is appreciated. 

Cheers

16817541046772104997230084392214.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted

As the pivot was broken in the first place I no longer need the back plate for I D. If you spread all the parts out I can tell you where the parts go but I will need very good clear photos. The best thing would be to number each one and I can work on that. It's up to you. 

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Samstaffs New Member

Samstaffs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 4/18/2023 at 7:47 AM, oldhippy said:

As the pivot was broken in the first place I no longer need the back plate for I D. If you spread all the parts out I can tell you where the parts go but I will need very good clear photos. The best thing would be to number each one and I can work on that. It's up to you. 

Thank you, I've attached the below for reference 

IMG_20230420_200603.jpg

IMG_20230420_200429.jpg

IMG_20230420_200831.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
oldhippy Distinguished Member

oldhippy

Posted
Posted (edited)

The four screws are to screw the plates together.

Part 5 Pallets the long point should be at the back plate end.

Part 4 goes at the top over the back plate this is the plate that holds the pallets in place and use two of the back plate screws to hold it in place.

Part 2 goes at the bottom over the back plate use the other two plate screws to hold it in place

Part 3 fits onto the barrel arbor that is the part the key fits onto, at the other end there is a square so the ratchet wheel fits on it, it goes on the same way as it is shown in the photo, You might have to move the click a little that is screwed on the plate just a little so the click rests it one of the ratchet wheel teeth.  

Part 1 is the pendulum as there is no suspension spring just leave it at the bottom of the clock.

Any problems just ask.

Edited by oldhippy
  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Samstaffs New Member

Samstaffs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
8 hours ago, oldhippy said:

The four screws are to screw the plates together.

Part 5 Pallets the long point should be at the back plate end.

Part 4 goes at the top over the back plate this is the plate that holds the pallets in place and use two of the back plate screws to hold it in place.

Part 2 goes at the bottom over the back plate use the other two plate screws to hold it in place

Part 3 fits onto the barrel arbor that is the part the key fits onto, at the other end there is a square so the ratchet wheel fits on it, it goes on the same way as it is shown in the photo, You might have to move the click a little that is screwed on the plate just a little so the click rests it one of the ratchet wheel teeth.  

Part 1 is the pendulum as there is no suspension spring just leave it at the bottom of the clock.

Any problems just ask.

Thank you, all back together now

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Samstaffs New Member

Samstaffs

Posted
  • Author
Posted
23 hours ago, Boz said:

Hi Sam, I'd be happy to repair the pivot for you -  if you are local drop it and the two plates off. I'm in Suffolk. 

Jules 

Thank you for the offer. I'm quite far away in North Staffordshire. To be honest I've had another look and some of the teeth are damaged on a couple of the wheels also, so looks like at least 2 wheels and the suspension spring would need replacing, and that's just what I can see with my Novice eyes

Not sure if it's worth repairing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 10 months later...
Angefoh Member

Angefoh

Posted
Posted

Hello, I am wondering if you ever managed to put this clock back together? I would be very interested in purchasing the parts numbered 4/5 in your exploded view.
I know I am a little late to the party but I am in need of these parts . That of course would go for any one else on this web site that may have access to old Schatz jum/7 parts

cheers Andrew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • nevenbekriev
      Pcket watch "Art déco"?

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Rich, this one seems rather regular movement to me. Yes, what You describe exists, but I doubt that the one on the picture is something similar.
    • BlueHarp
      Pcket watch "Art déco"?

      By BlueHarp · Posted

      @Neverenoughwatches Many thanks for your remarks. As I wrote earlier, I was a bit reluctant to disassemble this movement, and you gave me further motives to be careful. I'll just remove it from its case so as to clean it a little.
    • nevenbekriev
      Watch running too fast

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      I am not sure for the terms in english, but if I directly translate from Bulgarian or Russian, there are 'magnetic soft' and 'magnetic hard' magnetic materials. The first group will not get magnetised, thow they will be attracted by magnets. The soft iron for example. The second group, like hardened steel, will get magnetised. So non magnetic hairspring aloys belong to the first group.
    • nevenbekriev
      Waltham A-11 Hairspring and Balance assessment help needed.

      By nevenbekriev · Posted

      Looks like it is only dirt. If rust, then this means the strenght of the spring is reduced in places with rust, so the spring is damaged and useless. Only light surface rust, which is rather residual from other places activity of rust can be cleaned, and no chemicals that can etch the metals of the spring aloy should be used Be aware that this usually happens when the dial/hands have radium lume! One of the pivot looks little bent. Not that much to prevent the movement from working, but may be amplitude will be a little bit smaller when this pivot down, resing on the cap stone. Bent pivots always means the balance is out of poise, but it depends on the severity of the bent. Yes it can be straightened, but at this point I will advice to leave it as is and check how the movement performs.
    • Waggy
      Case Tube Tool - Quest for one that works

      By Waggy · Posted

      Hello, I'm after some help on getting a functional tool for removing and replacing case tubes, the friction fit type not the threaded type. I have previously owned two Chinese Ali Express tools, which worked, but in each case after using on a watch case with an angle the watch had to be manually held perpendicular and when this angle was not perfectly aligned the pusher pin inevitably received a slight side load and the tool body was damaged. Due to the fact that the hole which holds the pusher pin is so close to the end of the block and the material wall is so thin: The result was that the hard pusher pin stretched and deformed the hole and the pusher pin was then slack and no longer perpendicular, and eventually the material split altogether. After I looked at the tool I realised that the block the hole was machined into was aluminum, this coupled with the extremely thin wall made this hole very weak and prone to the deformation and damage I had experienced. I looked to another reputable supplier (see below) who advertised their tool as "all steel" and I even contacted their customer support who confirmed that the block in question was made of steel. I was very disappointed yesterday when it arrived and found that it was in fact aluminum and not steel as promised. I could tell by the feel of the material (weight) and confirmed with a magnet which would not 'stick' and have since requested a return/refund. Assuming the return/refund goes smoothly, I am still left with my original problem of not having a tube pusher tool - does anyone have any recommendation for a tool which will work and will also stand the test of time?
×
×
  • Create New...