Jump to content

longines l890.1 date indicator driving wheel

peter64

By peter64
in Introduce Yourself Here

 Share

Recommended Posts

peter64 New Member

peter64

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

This is my second posting since joining the forum about 2 weeks ago. My query this time is as per title. I recently purchased A Longines  automatic watch which had the L890.1 movement, the watch was running fine when I got albeit the hour and minute hands were not advancing. I immeadiately thought the problem would have something to do with the cannon pinion but upon opening the watch and removing the dial I noticed a number of stripped teeth from the hour wheel. Further investigation revealed a pair of small spring wires protruding from the date indicator driving wheel the purpose of these I can only assume is to give a rapid date changeover. I Googled this problem and found a uTube video showing the date change in operation and low and behold in the video there was no sign of these spring wires so it would appear the watch would still function with these wires omitted .I have since removed these wires but unfortunately can't test it as I am waiting on a new hour wheel. A nice movement but I believe this was a design flaw. By the way I forgot to mention that on side of the wire springs was awkwardly bent thus stopping the wheel from turning which in turn led to the stripping of the teeth from the hour wheel. Anyone else come across this problems?

Peter  

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 9 months later...
Gherghinescu New Member

Gherghinescu

Posted
Posted

Hello Peter! I openend one today and a donor movement too. Both have the spring inside the date change wheel broken and one of them has the hour wheel missing a few theeth. I also noticed deep wear marks on the small golden barrel teeth on both examples, even tho one of the movements is looking otherwise unused.. I will try to dismantle one of the date changing wheels (non-destructively hopefully) and atempt to replicate the spring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • praezis
      Greetings from India.

      By praezis · Posted

      Welcome! To which part of India will my greetings go? Frank
    • mikepilk
      Hairsrping alignment

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I agree with @Waggy, no need to adjust. That looks very good to me. The factory specs for 7S26 are something like -35 to +45s/day, but they are usually better. The amplitude is good. When wearing, the most important positions are dial up, crown down and crown left. You need to regulate so that these positions average out to about zero. Crown down is showing +14, so you may have to set dial up to slightly minus s/day. The absolute values of +/-s/day don't really matter, as long as they aren't too far out. The only way to get good accuracy is to wear it for a couple of days, recording the errors, and gradually tweaking.
    • VWatchie
      Looking for advice on removing the glass and bezel

      By VWatchie · Posted

      @Jon The link is no longer working and I wanted to see that demonstration again. Is there any chance you can make it available again? I'd appreciate it!
    • mikepilk
      DIY centre seconds support base

      By mikepilk · Posted

      Or, if you have a staking set or jewelling too, just use one of the stumps. You can choose a fine tip to fit inside a jewel if necessary.
    • Knebo
      Rolex 3130/3135 Automatic winding issue

      By Knebo · Posted

      Good morning,   To be honest, I'm not sure I trust my own logic anymore 😅. But here's a picture of my own (failed!) attempt to install a new rotor axle. I punched way to hard and even split the metal of the rotor. My thinking was that, in my case, the axle sits "deeper" in the rotor and hence the rotor would be closer to the movement plates. Vice versa, I was thinking that a very light punch could cause the rotor to sit rather high. But not sure that makes sense because in both cases, the flat part of the axle and the rotor align equally.     Sorry, but is he saying that the outside of the caseback has been polished to such an extent that the inside of the caseback has deformed/sunk??? That sounds crazy to me because those casebacks are thick! Can you see any signs of that on the inside of the caseback? Have you tried screwing in the caseback a litte bit more or less so that the supposedly "sunk" part of the caseback would move from 9 o'clock to e.g. 6/7 or 11/12 o'clock?  If the caseback is truly deformed, maybe it could be punched/pressed back into shape (e.g. with glass/caseback closing press).      I agree with your choice. But yea, Rolex makes it VERY hard for independent watchmakers to do a perfect job because we can't get (original) parts easily.      Your pictures aren't too bad. But still impossible to see if the rotor isn't perfectly flat. You'd have to look at it with your loupe, from the side (like the pictures), and turn the rotor to see if the gaps (with the automatic bridge plates) increase/decrease.     Finally... how is the up/down play of the rotor? To test, take a toothpick/pegwood and press on the small triangular side of the rotor next to the axle (NOT the big side where the weight is. But the opposite side.). Does that lift up the weight-side of the rotor? There can be some play, but it should really be minimal. If there's too much play, a new spring clip is the first thing to do. After that, one could play around with the jewels. This is too much:
×
×
  • Create New...