Jump to content

Hi there


Recommended Posts

Just getting into the world of watch service/repair.  Been watching YouTube videos for a year or so.  Picked up a non-working grade 291 Elgin from 1919.  Have it completely disassembled and cleaned.  Stud was broken off the hairspring so I ordered a complete balance replacement.  Managed to lose the screw for the click spring but was able to find a replacement for that and a new mainspring.  Waiting on some lubricants and a digital microscope to arrive this week so I can reassemble and see if it will be usable.  Already have a friend in mind to gift it to.  

Recently stumbled upon Elgin society dials.  I'm a Freemason and very interested in those to create antique Masonic pocket watches since Masonic Dudley's are so expensive.  Haven't found any so far from the published catalog of those but there are other versions listed as NOS.

Learned during disassembly that cheap tools are not worth starting out with.  The cheap service kit from Amazon did not have the correct size screwdrivers so I have already invested in a set of Bergeon ones.  So far, really enjoying this and already hunting for my next project on eBay.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i've just enrolled, I'm a absolute beginner, I've just changed  batteries up to now. I want to do more, I've got a Seiko 7T59-7A20 that I paid £100 for in a pub about 10 years ago. The 1/10 and !/100second hands have stopped turning but still oscillate The rest of the watch still runs.

I've also a Citizen Aqualand CO22 that has a similar fault, the analog second hand pulses but the others don't run. The digitals are O.K.

If I could rectify either of these I would be very pleased.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Right now I'm making do with a similar micrometer (the one below is $45 shipped but you can find better deals) and a $20 stand. You do have to be excruciatingly careful measuring jewels, since there's no table, but if you don't have the $500 to throw around, it's a nice option.
    • As  I kid, I'd watch Godzilla stomping over buildings and cars and I'd think to myself: Tokyo is a really dangerous place to live... . Cool watch!!
    • Next one up an AS 554, looks like a bit more to this one. First job is to check thickness, most springs are somewhere between .3 and .4, this one measures .35, that matches in with the .4 spring steel i ordered. So for marking up a permanent marker comes in handy to colour up the steel to be marked later with a scriber once its dry. Bestfit provide the extra bit of info for the jumper spring that is missing.
    • Thanks again, Marc.  Super helpful. I was wondering what the hole was for, and now it makes perfect sense. With your help and the other members here, it looks like I'm good to go with my Seitz tool set. I had to order some replacement pushers, but with those, the set is complete and in good condition. Now, I need to figure out what tool to buy to measure jewels (amongst other watch-related parts). I had my eye on the JKA Feintaster micrometers, but people get crazy bidding on them for $400-600 USD. I was thinking of just a regular digital micrometer (Mitutoyo). Thoughts?  Mahalo. Frank      
    • Yep, that's exactly how it should fit. The reamer shank is tapered and the socket in the spindle is also tapered so that the one centers in the other and is gripped tightly. If there is any wobble when the reamer is seated as far it will go then there is a problem. The cross hole in the spindle is to allow you the push the reamer back out again. If the reamer seated much deeper then it would limit the access for pushing it back out again. Here is one of mine for comparison.
×
×
  • Create New...