Jump to content

Hello everyone!


xam7

Recommended Posts

i just find this place looking for as much information as possible on my Tag Heuer "Aquagraph" CN211A .

i bought the watch in 2003 and i  use it for scuba diving  until see water got inside and ruin everything, lately i decided to revive it 

i found VWatchie ETA 2892-A2 Service Walkthrough  

so impressive work done here ,beat all my previous research on the subject.

will it be possible for a novice who have never service a watch before to service a tag heuer aquagraph?

finding part on top of everything else looks even more difficult .

Thanks again VWatchie for this excellent work!

 

 

 

20230214_121852   bb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, xam7 said:

Thanks again VWatchie for this excellent work!

Hi @xam7and thanks for your kind words. It's a very nice watch you got there and it's in my opinion definitely worth restoring. However, it probably will be a challenging task, even for a somewhat seasoned repairer. I'm not sure I'd be up to it.

Servicing and repairing watches is something most people with a passion for it learn over a rather long period of time, so don't expect it to be a quick fix. As I wrote in my 2892-A2 walkthrough:

"As usual, I would like to remind those of you with no previous experience in watch servicing that this service walkthrough should not be seen as a tutorial on how to service a watch movement. A lot of tools, consumables, training and know-how are required to succeed. Fortunately, there are several excellent resources and watchmaking schools online."

I've tried three of those online schools, watchfix.com, learnwatchmaking.com, and timezonewatchschool.com. They are all good and complete each other. Personally, I recommend watchfix.com for a solid start (and no, I'm not affiliated with @Mark who runs this site).

Finally, a word of strong advice. If do get into servicing and repairing, DO NOT practice on your precious Aquagraph. Get yourself an ETA/UNITAS calibre 6497 or 6498. It is larger than most wristwatch movements and is a textbook example of how mechanical watches work. Also, it's a wonderful movement on its own and is very popular among people who build their own watches.

Good luck and we'll be here to assist should you decide to enter into this most fascinating world of horology!

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are so kind and i thank you very much to take some of your time to write me back,i would like to take more time tonight to write more but i just finish a 12 hr shift and i got another tomorrow ,if you don't mind i will take more time next time.Good night!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Considering the complications on your watch, you best have it cleaned by a competent repairer AS SOON AS POSSIBLE,

to slow the rate of damage by the moisture, remove the back plate, uncase the movement and give it two to three ONE SECOND  dip in lighter fluid, blow dry with  a hairdryer each time.

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I’ve tried everything using both my blue and donut demag units.  I’ve even tried beating them with a steel hammer 🙂   im now trying heating them over gas flame — if that doesn’t work …..
    • The 110v supply could be problem with the blue one. Have you tried moving the piece to demag through different orientations manually as its drawn away ? As Nev quoted the magnetic fields of the demag have to overcome those of the steel. 
    • Thank you Marc! I re ran the TG. First I went ahead and checked the balance jewel on the regulator and it was bone dry. I cleaned and oiled it, not without some drama including pinging the capstone and searching my bench with a black light for 30 minutes and finally shone it on my face and looked in the mirror only to find it on my left cheek in my 2 day growth! Back in and on the Grapher we are at 275. However significant drop in DD (234) and CR (190 edited) positions tells me it's time for a complete cleaning and oiling.
    • My $12 blue one seems to work well enough for movements out of case. However for  tools with greater mass, such as my small and large anvils which are highly magnetized the blue unit is useless.   For whatever reason, my high current K&D donut unit just doesn’t seem to work, regardless of my attempts to use it as instructed in this thread (magnetizes stuff fine so I know it is energized).  
    • PUW1563 is the day/date version of the 1561 (date only). I have just measured a 1561 using the old "blob of paint on the rim" technique to determine the actual amplitude by observation, and then putting it on my TG and adjusting the TG lift angle until the displayed amplitude matches the observed amplitude. I get 48°. Not a million miles away but it will have overstated the amplitude by about 20° with the TG set to 52° (I tried that as well for completeness). So with a more appropriate lift angle set on your TG you would have got an amplitude reading of about 240°.
×
×
  • Create New...