Removal of second hand from Tissot watch

[SPB]

Hello, my name is Sean and I just joined today.   I have an anniversary watch from work that I wore for the first time last week.  After a couple days, I noticed the second hand was not attached to spindle (name ?).  I thought it would be best to remove it. I watched a couple videos and performed the following:

1.  Removed back plate. Two screws were rolling around inside.  See picture, I believe they came from the holes at 8:00 and 2:00 o’clock.

2.  I was able to remove time adjustment knob.

3. At this point I expected the whole inside part to fall out, but it didn’t.  The brass colored interior assembly rotates.

4.  There are two “fasteners” at 10:00 and 4:00 o’clock, but they look odd, when I zoom in on the picture.

I am stuck.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much.

Sean

 

 

[lexacat]

Hi Sean, any chance we can get a look at the front and the side of the watch? Looking at that movement it is quite likely it is front loaded, meaning the glass needs to be removed to access the hands and dial.

[SPB]

Hello Lexacat.  Thank you for responding.  I attached front and side photos as requested.

Sean

[watchweasol]

Hi Sean. As Lexacat says it’s quite likley to be a front loader which requires the bezel and glass/crystal removing for the movement to drop through, pictures of the fron and sides will help in this case. The two points at 10 and 4. Look like the dial feet ends

[Paul80]

As it was an anniversary watch from your employer, could you not hand it back and say is this all you think of my loyal service, assuming you still work for them loose screws and a detached hand from new is not really acceptable is it.

As others have said its a front loader if you insist on a DIY repair, I would put the two loose screws back in before removing the front, that way the movement will stay in place and it will be easier to handle whilst trying to refit the second hand, assuming it can be refited and it's not fallen off because it's not possible to get a tight fit on it's pinion.

If its an option I would take it back for a replacement.

[HansPeter]

As suggested by Paul, put the handsetting stem (knob) back and screw down the caseback. Hand it over to your boss nad ask for a repair / new one....

If you wanna do it yourself, check if you can remove the spacer aound the (brass) movement.

If it's not a spacer and is fixed at the case (I cannot see it cleary at your picture), than you have to remove the bezel or crystal from the front. You need special tools to do it. You'll  experiance that this is a costly hobby

 

[SPB]

Thank you paul80, Hanspeter, and watchweasol for follow ups to lexacat comments.  I posted the pictures lexacat requested about 8 hours ago, but they have not been approved yet.   It was a 35 year anniversary watch,  I like my job, but this is par for the course with service gifts.  It’s ok, it gives me yet another thing  to complain about at work.  I would like to see if I can do this myself.  Sounds like there are some informational videos in the forums I can check.  I would like to at least learn the proper names for major components.

Thank you all,

Sean

[lexacat]

Weird that the photos need approval, I wasn't aware that's a thing. Can you let us know the model number of the watch? It should be stamped on the caseback somewhere, otherwise let us know what details are written on the movement (can't quite read it in your original picture).

It's likely your watch has an acrylic crystal that can be removed with a crystal lift (they aren't super expensive), or the crystal is held in with a retaining ring. If there is an obvious ring demarking a separation of the front of the watch from the case, you should be able to remove the crystal with a simple case back opener by gently prising that ring up.

 

EDIT: wait, I see the pictures now, you can definitely use a case opener to separate the crystal retaining ring from the case.

You might need a case back press tool to fit it back on though. Those can be had for cheap on eBay or whatever if you only need it the once. 

Edited January 23, 2023 by lexacat

[SPB]

Lexacat thank you very much.  I was able to get the crystal off then gently pry off the second hand (it pretty much fell off).  I pressed the crystal back on.  I am able to set time and date.  I attached a photo with the removed second hand.

Unfortunately, the watch no longer works.  I thought I put the battery back in correctly, but I will have to check and probably get a new battery.  Can’t help but think if I had not tried going in through the back, all would be well.

I really appreciate the time you took to help me through this.

Sean

[watchweasol]

Hi. When you open the back up for the battery post a clear picture of the logo and the calibre number. If it’s a nonstarter after a battery change the information will be of help.  A new battery should be 1.55volts, check the old oneant

y thing less than about 1.3. 1.2v. Bin it.

[Marc]

On 1/22/2023 at 12:59 AM, SPB said:

Hello, my name is Sean and I just joined today.   I have an anniversary watch from work that I wore for the first time last week.  After a couple days, I noticed the second hand was not attached to spindle (name ?).  I thought it would be best to remove it. I watched a couple videos and performed the following:

1.  Removed back plate. Two screws were rolling around inside.  See picture, I believe they came from the holes at 8:00 and 2:00 o’clock.

2.  I was able to remove time adjustment knob.

3. At this point I expected the whole inside part to fall out, but it didn’t.  The brass colored interior assembly rotates.

4.  There are two “fasteners” at 10:00 and 4:00 o’clock, but they look odd, when I zoom in on the picture.

I am stuck.  Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.  Thank you very much.

Sean

 

 

I hate to say it but in your first pic which shows the movement there appears to be scratch mark running across the cover plate and the bottom end of the coil. If it is a scratch, and if it does go across the coil, the movement is probably dead. If this is the case then the most cost effective solution could well be a complete replacement movement.

The photo isn't that clear but it looks like it is an ETA movement but I can't discern the number. Can you get a clearer pic or tell us what the number is?

[watchweasol]

Hi I increased the picture size and what Marc saw looks very much like a scratch and at the lower end of the coil there are two light marks which would indicate the case knife has clipped the coil and it’s now open circuit hence the reason it’s not working.  Better / clearer pictures of the logo and calibre needed for identification.