Jump to content

Seiko 6309A movement performance specifications ?


Recommended Posts

I have a frankenseiko with a 6309A movement that I want to rebuild and can't seem to find the seiko 6309 performance specifications. (Only paid $35 for it). Great for practice.
I have the technical guide, but it does not say anything about the performance.
As you can see in the photo, its not running well at all.
I can see dried oil and dirt in the movement, so it's going to get a good cleaning. (I'm sure to find some funky stuff inside this thing).

Thanks for any help here.
Bill.

IMG_2420.JPG

P1080051.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know the exact figures Seiko publish on this movement, maybe something close to what you say, but for me that's not important, I wouldn't be happy with a +30 spd so that's not what I'm looking for.

What I first look for is clean lines in the timegrapher (your movement looks quite clean and you'll get good results) and an amplitude of at least 210º or better right after the service. It will go up to 230-250º in the next few days.. Then I inspect the positional difference in amplitude, 6309 movements can be quite worn on the 3rd, 4th and barrel arbor bushings, and I personally have not the skills to correct that.

Once the movement is running the best I can get, setting the B.E. to 0.0/0.1 is not usually a problem, and I like to set it to around +5/+8 spd on the TG, and then check it on the wrist, where it usually give slower rates.

Of course these are just my priorities, others may look for different parameters.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, aac58 said:

Seiko publish on this movement

What makes you think Seiko publishes the specifications?

For any of the older series of watches there is for the most part never been anything specified for timing rate or anything except in the 4006 service manual. I have an image of that otherwise you won't find anything in the older manuals. If you want timing specifications you'll have to look at a newer Seiko manual where they oftentimes will give you the timing specifications.

3 hours ago, BillM said:

Wow, so no one here knows what the performance specs are for the Seiko 6309A movement ?  + 30 - 15 spd?  Something like that?  I just need to know what to expect after my rebuild.

Ideally after rebuild it should look much better than what you have their. Then your amplitude is extremely low even for Seiko. It's interesting that it doesn't know what the rate is? In other words is not giving you numbers that's a bit peculiar.

seiko 4006a amplitude.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, JohnR725 said:

What makes you think Seiko publishes the specifications?

For any of the older series of watches there is for the most part never been anything specified for timing rate or anything except in the 4006 service manual. I have an image of that otherwise you won't find anything in the older manuals. If you want timing specifications you'll have to look at a newer Seiko manual where they oftentimes will give you the timing specifications.

I'm sorry but I don't think anything, and I don't care about timing specifications. I was just telling the OP how I do it.

Edited by aac58
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I looked at the 6306 tech guide.  It is all in Japanese which I don't know how to read.  If this number would be anywhere it would be here.  The 6306 was their domestic flagship for the 630x series.  Almost all numerals shown are Arabic numerals so I would think that a timing specification would be in Arabic numerals.  Could be wrong. 

There are no numbers for lift angle or timing range that I see.

You will just have to embrace the artistic side of your brain and suppress the analytical side and roll with it.  From experience, you can get these down to a few seconds a day easily.  Expert watchmakers can easily get amplitude in the 280 range.  Hobbyist obtain 220-250.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, bklake said:

lift angle

If you look up when this watch was made the discovery that we didn't conveniently have timing machines that measured amplitude. In other words there is no reason to have a lift angle if watchmakers don't have a timing machine.

Conceivably if there ever was specifications they might  had it in a separate sheet somewhere. A lot of watch companies have supplemental information that's not in the technical sheets. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK, Thank you very much guys.

I'll just to clean it and reassemble it to the best of my abilities and see what I end up with.

I have more questions, specifically about how to get the main spring out of the barrel, but I'll post that in the appropriate section.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So leave off the seconds. Stand the movement on its edge, its the dial edge that rests on the pad ( either rubber or cork , something that wont slip ). Use a finger of your left hand to hold the movement upright,  right hand presses the release and flicks out the stem. I do it this way so i can see what I'm under a microscope. But you could hold the movement between two fingers of your left hand, its the right that has to manipulate the stem out by pushing the release and flicking out the stem with  right ring finger nail. Sounds more complicated than it actually is. I guess you could fix a push pin to something solid, then all you need to do is push the release against the pin, leaving your right hand completely free to pull the stem out.
    • Try putting everything back together and closing the back cover. I think one of the two springs has to contact the metal casing to ground the casing. So when you press the button, it will touch the contact on circuit board and close the circuit.
    • Yes, the seconds hand is the longest and goes almost to the edge of the dial. I can’t quite picture it how you do it on the rubber pad
    • A don't think so it leaked or damaged it because the watch itself works it just the buttons ain't working not connecting with the circuit board have taken more pictures of where the buttons makes contact with the circuit board.
    • I think what peter means oh is once he has fitted the hands and  checked for  alignment if them and that they dont foul, how does he then hold the movement to remove the stem in order to case up. The dial cannot be laid on a cushion or in a movement holder as the hands will get damaged. This can be quite tricky for a beginner, what i do is  to stand the movement on edge on a rubber pad so it doesn't slip. Hold the top edge with one finger then my dominant hand uses 3 fingers to press the stem release and flick out the stem. See below peter, leave off the second hand as this is the longest and gets caught the most, then fit it once the stem is out. Alternatively place the movement in one of the cup style holders, i imagine this is what they are designed for. They only touch the very edge of the dial.  
×
×
  • Create New...