Jump to content

Horotec oilers tip shape vs. Bergeon, and polishing tips

ManSkirtBrew
 Share

Recommended Posts

ManSkirtBrew Super WRT Addict

ManSkirtBrew

Posted
Posted

I've been using a set of basic Bergeon oilers since I started, and having broken a tip or two, I picked up a set of Horotec oilers with replaceable tips from Cousins UK.

I searched around the forum and didn't find much other than this thread, and this one, which led me to Alex's oiler video. All great resources, but not exactly what I'm curious about.

Here's a photo of the black handled oilers: Bergeon on the left/bottom, Horotec on the right. With the Horotec, I'm having a heck of a hard time getting the oil where I want it. It tends to gather around the fat part of the teardrop shaped tip, so the pointy part is dry, forcing me to use the side of the tool, which makes it really hard to get the oil to go exactly where I want.

oilers.thumb.png.ffb0ef1f3bdd17d1eb0a3b1dbde98d19.png

Is there a different technique I should be using to pick up and/or deposit the oil?

And regarding polishing the oilers, does anyone do this, and if so, how?

 

 

ifibrin Super WRT Addict

ifibrin

Posted
Posted (edited)
22 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

Here's a photo of the black handled oilers: Bergeon on the left/bottom, Horotec on the right. With the Horotec, I'm having a heck of a hard time getting the oil where I want it. It tends to gather around the fat part of the teardrop shaped tip, so the pointy part is dry, forcing me to use the side of the tool, which makes it really hard to get the oil to go exactly where I want.

oilers.thumb.png.ffb0ef1f3bdd17d1eb0a3b1dbde98d19.png

Is there a different technique I should be using to pick up and/or deposit the oil?

I’ve never used the Horotec oilers, but the shape in the picture does seem to make it more challenging to deposit oil in jewels compared to a spade shaped one.

22 minutes ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

And regarding polishing the oilers, does anyone do this, and if so, how?

 

It is possible to polish oiler tips, or reshape them, but I find that it makes the oiler tip very prone to rust after polishing. Also, you have to be very careful while doing so: it’s very easy to break the tip of the oiler off when polishing. You can use very fine (5000 grit or finer) sand paper, or Autosol. You will probably have to store your oiler tips after polishing, under molykote DX to prevent rusting.

A better alternative would be to get the smallest (superfine, red) Bergeon ergonomic oiler, the tips are shaped really nicely, and already electro-polished. Do note that it may take some practice getting used to depositing oil, but when you know how, it’s really very good. The smallest Bergeon ergonomic oiler will deposit the perfect amount of oil for all train wheels, except for the balance end jewels which require more oil…

If you aren’t comfortable depositing such small quantities of oil, you can get the next in size, the blue ergonomic oiler, which deposits around the same amount of oil as the normal superfine (red) oiler.

Edited by ifibrin
ManSkirtBrew Super WRT Addict

ManSkirtBrew

Posted
  • Author
Posted
13 hours ago, ifibrin said:

It is possible to polish oiler tips, or reshape them, but I find that it makes the oiler tip very prone to rust after polishing

Thanks for the info. I was considering reshaping them because I really don't like using them, but I thought maybe they were designed that way for a reason I didn't understand and I was using them wrong.

But I guess if I were going to toss them anyway, there's nothing to lose.

mikepilk Distinguished Member

mikepilk

Posted
Posted

I agree with @ifibrinthat the Bergeon ergonomic oilers are a much better option. You get much better control of the size of oil drop.

They're not cheap, I just bought the finest one, and use it for everything, apart from where you need a bit more oil, eg balance jewels. Then I use a Horotec (red) - but like you find it annoying, as the oil often sits too high up and you have to roll it on to the side to transfer.

Don't toss them - old oilers are useful.  Grind to a sharp point. Then you have a useful tool for oiling capped jewels through the hole, and for manipulating hairspring.

ifibrin Super WRT Addict

ifibrin

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, ManSkirtBrew said:

Thanks for the info. I was considering reshaping them

Actually, since the oiler tips on the Horotec are removable, you can grind the oiler tips by holding it in a pin vice.

91C59F4B-644F-4A75-BC10-82C3BEDFFC2E.jpeg

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Nucejoe
      Greetings from Whidbey Island.

      By Nucejoe · Posted

      Hello and welcome to the WRT forum.
    • JohnR725
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      interesting video nice to see the machine what it can do now I wonder what it costs and I'm sure it's not in my budget. Plus the video brought up questions but the website below answers the questions? What was bothering me was the size of his machine 4 mm because I thought it was bigger than that? But then it occurred to me that maybe they had variations it looks like four, seven and 10. With the seven and 10 being the best because way more tool positions in way more rotating tools. Although I bet you all the rotating tools are probably separate cost https://www.tornos.com/en/content/swissnano   Then as we been talking about Sherline. Just so that everyone's aware of this they have another division their industrial division where you can buy bits and pieces. I have a link below that shows that just in case you don't want to have the entire machine you just need bits and pieces. https://www.sherline.com/product-category/industrial-products-division/   Let's see what we can do with the concept I explained up above and bits and pieces. For one thing you can make a really tiny gear very tiny like perhaps you're going to make a watch. Then another version the center part is not separate it is all machined from one piece. Then fills gear cutting machines have gone through multiple of evolutions. A lot of it based on what he wanted to make like he was going to make a watch unfortunately eyesight issues have prevented that. Another reason why you should start projects like this much sooner when your eyesight is really good or perhaps start on watches first and then move the clocks then local we have from the industrial division? Looks like two separate motors and heads. Then it's hard to see but this entire thing is built on top of a much larger milling machine as a larger milling machine gave a very solid platform to build everything.   Then like everything else that had multiple generations are versions the indexing went through of course variations like above is one version and the one below was the last version. Now the version below I mentioned that previously and somewhere in the beginning to discussion and somebody else had one in their picture. As it is a really nice precision indexing. Then I wasn't sure if I had a the watch photos here is his unfinished watch. No he wasn't going to make a simple watch like none of his clocks were simply either what would be the challenge and that.    
    • Titanium
      Lab Coats

      By Titanium · Posted

      Use a Portwest Howie lab coat. They are the biological type so they have tapped cuffs so you don't end up getting the loose cuffs of normal lab coats catching everything. 
    • Titanium
      Chinese tools debate

      By Titanium · Posted

      Some of the Chinese tools ae great and can be purchased at a fraction of the price of Swiss ones, some are complete garbage and some I'm convinced are coming out the same factory as the branded ones.
    • caseback
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By caseback · Posted

      I found this string about this problem. I've not gone through it all, but I believe it also mentions making a spring. If not in this string, the info is online.
×
×
  • Create New...