Jump to content

Ethan Allen Clock with CROWN movement runs fast


gbschott

Recommended Posts

Good Day,

I am George Schott, I live in Newport News VA. I am looking for advice with regard to a clock that I am attempting to repair for my neighbor.  The clock is a 50 year old Ethan Allan "Tall" mantel clock.  The clock had stopped running several years ago and his wife has been wanting it fixed. My neighbor saw the number of wall clocks that I have (all antiques) and ask me who I take them to when they need repair. I told him that over the years I have learned to maintain and repair them myself. So he asked if I could look at his Ethan Allen clock. I said I would and this is what has transpired since I received it.

The clock has a CROWN movement. The original movement was well beyond repair, i.e. a spring was broke, the bushing plate holes were beyond repair and a gear shaft was out of round. So I search the internet and found on e-bay another CROWN movement that matched exactly. I purchased it, cleaned it, lightly lubed it installed it and started it working. It seemed to run fine but then after a day it began to run fast, really fast.

As an example in one hour it would gain 3hrs.

So I adjusted the BOB, no luck, made the BOB heavier (added some weight) still no luck. So I decided to try different pendulums of varying types and sizes from my other clocks that I have acquired over the years, no matter what I tried the movement still runs fast.

I even decided to try and make a pendulum for it .  The original pendulum shaft was 6" long . So I made one that is 10" and attached the BOB.  This resulted in the pendulum moving slower and a bit more gracefully and it did slow the movement but the clock still gains time quickly. It gains about 20-25mins in an hour. 

I have taken the clock to a couple repair shops in the local area and each has told me that I have to figure out the appropriate Pendulum length but neither had any other ideas.

I have never seen this type situation with any clock ( my own or others) typically a simple adjustment of the BOB (up or down) tends to solve the rate issue of clocks I've worked.

So I thought I'd reach out to this forum and ask folks who have more experience then I and ask you might think is going on with this clock?  Is there a way to slow the gears aside from the pendulum. Is there a way I could add govenor/mechanical of some type?

I'd like to give the clock back to its owner in its original configuration and nothing special or unique added.

Movement Data: CROWN, 0-Jewels, unadjustable

Thank you all for reading this and for any advice you may have.

George

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello George and welcome to the forum,  You seem to have a bit of a problem. Is the pendulum the one which came with the clock or the one which came with the donor clock.  Also we would appreciate pictures of the movement, front and back as there may be other issues causing your problem    thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sir thank you for your response. The pendumlum is he one that came with the clock. When I purchased the movement it came without it's pendulum.

As for pics. I'll have to remove it from its case to snap pics from all sides. So I'll follow up with those very soon.

Again thank you for your interest in my issue.  george

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ethan Allan w/CROWN movement - PICS added.

Attached are some pics of the mechanism that is driving the Ethan Allan clock.  Hopefully these will help to determine if the movement is faulty.

When I purchased the movement, I went on line and found a parts breakdown of this CROWN movement and it appeared to me that all was in order.

As I said it seems to be mechanically fine, the "Beat" is perfect, but when its original pendulum is added (and the BOB adjusted fully to slow)  the clock runs 2-3 hours fast in a 24Hr period. The homemade pendulum (as I mentioned at the start) is 11" long and I created a BOB for it just to see if I could slow the movement by adding weight. I did get the clock to slow down to gaining 20mins in a 1hr period. But still it runs fast.

I really appreciate any help you can provide.  Thank you for reviewing this issue.  george

IMG_20221026_101720670_PORTRAIT.jpg

IMG_20221026_111621826_PORTRAIT.jpg

IMG_20221026_111636904_PORTRAIT.jpg

IMG_20221026_111359132_PORTRAIT.jpg

IMG_20221026_101930374_PORTRAIT.jpg

IMG_20221026_102458155_PORTRAIT.jpg

Edited by gbschott
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi George  Thanks for the pic's, what I would liik for in the first instance is the escapement. Are the pallets entering and leaving the escapement wheel cleanly and not skipping, by that I mean If the pallets are not locking properly one tooth at a time the wheel can skip  one or two teeth before locking again. This can be due to bad adjustment of the depth of locking or worn pallet faces and or a worn escape wheel. As the pendulum is original its un likley to be that.  So check out the pallets, locking and the escape wheel. also check for worn pivot holes and pivot relating to the pallets and escape wheel as these can cause the same problems with the lockings..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi  not knowing the history of the clock some times you have to look at the improbable  for example whats been changed in the past and what may if changed cause your problem. Hence Old Hippys input, the suspension may be the wrong one. too strong, too weak also as mentioned the mainspring. Check out the obvious things first, wear and tear and if it proves out that all is ok then dig deeper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

WW and Oldhippy, gentlemen, good day. Thank you both for your suggestions.  I will give the movement a thorough look over and check the items as you have suggested.  I will snap pics of the parts and post those here. If this site allows it I will take a vid of the movement as it is functioning and maybe through that media you guys will see something that looks out of place or malfunctioning.

Thank you again guys for taking time to help troubleshoot this very unusual situation.  More to follow.  George

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Etahn Allen Clock with CROWN Movement

UPDATE:  Mystery SOLVED!!!

WatchWeasol and OldHippy, gentlemen thank you for your advice and guidance. Yesterday 29 Oct I spent all afternoon and partially into the evening working on this "runs fast" issue and allow me to tell you what I learned.  

It is definitely the escapement, but not in a way that it is faulty but actually that the escapement was designed for a different type clock. As I was looking over the gearing of the movement that is in the clock I didn't notice anything unusual but as you guys suggested I focused on the escapement. Again not noticing anything I decided to go to my clocks and look at their individual movements and it dawned on me that the escapements of the movements were of varying sizes (diameter and number/size of the teeth/cogs).

I returned to the problematic clock and I did as OldHippy suggested I made a temp pendulum shaft that was 22" long, I attached a heavy machine bolt to its base and set it in motion.  The pendulum was now taking longer strokes and the clock actually slowed a tremendous amount. So I added one additional weight , set the time and let it run.  3 hours later I returned to check and the clock was now running 4 minutes slow.  

So I got the escapement from the original movement and I compared it to the one that is in the clock. POOF!!! The one in the clock has 38 cogs and the drive gear has 6 cogs.  The one in my hand (the original) has 36 cogs and the drive gear has 9 cogs.

You guys did great by insisting I keep my focus on the Escapement and the Pendulum.  Thanks guys for taking time to help with this issue. You both were a great help.

Now all I have left to do is try to design a pendulum BOB that will distribute the weight across the base of the clock rather than pin-pointing up and down the base of the shaft. 

Thank you again guys for your support.  -George

Quote

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • One way is to file it by hand. Good file with sharp edge is needed. Another way is with the aid of milling attachment. There is one more way, thyat is really only on the lathe, but the arbor has to be attached perpendicular to the axis of the spindle. Will be easier to show pictures than to explain this.
    • giving up so soon? then the feelings of frustrations is common for all of us. At work I've requested a cannon? To be technically correct I like to get a black powder cannon as I think I be quite enjoyable to fire some of the watch movements off into the distance never to be seen again unfortunately I don't think I'm going to get my request. So yes we all have frustrations like I have a frustration with this discussion I don't suppose before you run away you could give us the size of the movement and a photograph of the dial side with the keyless parts.  as I'm still rather curious about who made this watch.
    • It wasn't a rookie mistake Nev , i should have know better with me being a joiner. After a hole another a wider bit has nothing to keep it to center and the outside of the flutes draw the drill bit in fast because of no material present. I must have done it thousands of times in timber and plastic . It was a senior moment mistake. 😄
    • Don't give up. You just need patience and practice. Don't use force or try to screw down the plate before making sure everything is in place. My first few watches took me like 45 minutes to get the train wheels in. Now it usually takes me less than a minute. Make sure that all the bottom pivots are in their respective holes before putting on the top plate. Then apply gentle pressure with a pegwood or gloved finger. Start from the barrel, 2nd wheel, 3rd wheel.... and finally the escape wheel. You can feel the plate drop each time you get a pivot in. If you experience the pivots that you have already gotten in coming out of their holes when you work on other wheels down line, you can put 1 or 2 screws nearer the barrel side in but don't exert any force on the screws. Just lightly turn the screws until you feel pressure and backoff 1/4 turn. This will prevent the plates from separating.  I use a homemade tool with a brass wire, shaped like an oiler to lightly touch the wheels to guide them into place. I find that an oiler made of hardened steel can leave scratches on the brass wheels. Once you think you have gotten all the pivots in, test it by using a blower to blow on the escape wheel. It should spin freely. Continue applying pressure on the top plate with the pegwood or finger until you lightly tighten all the screws. Don't tighten fully yet until you reconfirm that the wheels are able to spin freely. And reconfirm again after you have fully tightened all the screws. What you are experiencing is normal. All of us have gone through it. Don't work on watches when you are tired or frustrated. All of us can tell you what that leads to. But I'm sure you'll experience a few hard lessons even after reading this advice. It's only human. Go forth and practice. Good luck!
    • by the way this is very confusing to me? You have a 7s26a and you're comparing it to a 7s26b which is confusing to me because they're not the same? Watch companies are rather amusing when it comes the part numbers seemingly watches with similar  numbers as you're implying should be exactly identical but in this case they are very very dramatically different for instance the 7s26a balance part number is 0310 020 the 7s26b has a different part number 0310 197 as the part numbers are entirely different there must be a reason it noticed that I made two terms in the quote above in bold regulator pins are versus the etachron  system. In addition to changing the regulation part more than likely they change the hairspring. So this would typically main you wouldn't build a swap balance completes from one type to the other because they will be entirely different. this is where looking at the technical guide might yield some amusing information. you'll note in the 7s26b  service guide it explains what the difference is. It makes a reference to the balance staff which is totally inconsequential for this discussion. But the really big difference is the A  version has conventional regulator pins and the B  has is the Etachron  system. In @Jon excellent images up above he didn't explain something? if you look carefully at the images below you'll notice that the outer terminal curve is different  as a guest to accommodate the etachron  system it looks like the terminal curve is farther out. So yes exactly as the parts list indicates the balance completes will look different because they are different. Because they are different there are not interchangeable. so basically because the letter changes at the end in this particular case we end up with two separate balance completes as proven by the parts numbers. Balance completes that are entirely different to accommodate the regulation system conceivably with entirely different characteristics of timing as they are entirely different. So your observation of the balances are different shape is correct they are different.      
×
×
  • Create New...