Jump to content

Recommended Posts

32 minutes ago, valleyguy said:

Do you have a link for the stand, it could be easier if i stuff up.

I've had an idea, i'll weld or braze a small 1 inch long square bar to the back of the bracket, this will push into the hollow arm of the stand then a bolt through it to keep in place, doing it this way makes it less likely i'll knacker the stand.

That stand is just a cheap one, an ebay search of lab stand will provide a better option.  I thought soldering the rod into a hole might be a little easier. I nearly made up the same set up as you, but for the same cost buying the one i posted earlier i thought not worth my effort. Then i made something much simpler,  my cost for it came to £25.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, Malocchio said:

I posted this to some other thread earlier but here's that lab stirrer again connected to an Elma basket. My timer doesn't work but I wouldn't use it anyway. I also made a jar holder out of a wood plank.

Very quiet and very stable. These lab stirrers cost £85 inc. Shipping here in the UK delivery from Germany. I have even had offers from the seller for less than this. Coupled with the indian copy baskets , all in all a good cleaning solution for around £170. One tip i have, swap the round jars for square kilner jars, the fluid agitation is better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

One tip i have, swap the round jars for square kilner jars, the fluid agitation is better.

I might just do that if I found some tight sealing jars of perfect size. I'd still have to have some kind of lid that the rod goes through for some support. Maybe 3D printed if I had a printer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Malocchio said:

I might just do that if I found some tight sealing jars of perfect size. I'd still have to have some kind of lid that the rod goes through for some support. Maybe 3D printed if I had a printer.

I tried round and square, the square ones could really froth up the cleaner on a quick speed. I actually just leave the jars open at the moment until i make some wooden or cork lids.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I tried round and square, the square ones could really froth up the cleaner on a quick speed. I actually just leave the jars open at the moment until i make some wooden or cork lids.

out of curiosity what sort of speed are we talking about do we have an RPM speed for instance?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

out of curiosity what sort of speed are we talking about do we have an RPM speed for instance?

No sorry John,  slow medium and fast and lots inbetween. I use a basic voltage regulator with only a voltage input reading to adjust the speed of the drive motor. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Everything aside from the frame is on its way. The frame is the big mystery at the moment. I really like Gert's implementation, would be nice if the jars would also change automatically. The bad side is that it's quite chunky, I don't have that much space. The Kiwi Watch Cleaning machine project is a bit simpler and just works. The good part is that its smaller. 

At this point I started from the software, as I already have the components. I took a board that have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi... meaning you can get a notification when the job is done. 😃 Maybe a bigger display would be nicer, will see... 

The plan is to keep the menu simple, just 3 functions that one could select by going up an down with the buttons. Probably I need one more button to act as a cancel/emergency cancel button, for when any of the jobs is running.

IMG_5004.jpeg

Edited by swiss2k
  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, swiss2k said:

Everything aside from the frame is on its way. The frame is the big mystery at the moment. I really like Gert's implementation, would be nice if the jars would also change automatically. The bad side is that it's quite chunky, I don't have that much space. The Kiwi Watch Cleaning machine project is a bit simpler and just works. The good part is that its smaller. 

At this point I started from the software, as I already have the components. I took a board that have Bluetooth and Wi-Fi... meaning you can get a notification when the job is done. 😃 Maybe a bigger display would be nicer, will see... 

The plan is to keep the menu simple, just 3 functions that one could select by going up an down with the buttons. Probably I need one more button to act as a cancel/emergency cancel button, for when any of the jobs is running.

IMG_5004.jpeg

Sounds like its coming along just fine. A bit too fandangled for me I'm affraid , I'm not that tech savvy, an electric speed regulated drill and a Janta pearl basket is as far as my electronic knowledge permits me. But cant wait to see the finished version

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

A bit of progress. Got the motor to run. Speed, oscillation timers can be set, but in code for now. Need to combine the menu and buttons with the hardware that actually does something. Frame still is a big question. 🙂 

Edited by swiss2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/8/2024 at 9:29 PM, Neverenoughwatches said:

I tried round and square, the square ones could really froth up the cleaner on a quick speed. I actually just leave the jars open at the moment until i make some wooden or cork lids.

I use the jars below and they are compatible with the Elma and Pearl baskets - just make sure you get the wide mouth version, its a little bit of a tight fit to get them into the jar, but there is more than enough clearance so not a problem. I also made some wave breakers from strip stainless steel which do a great job in causing turbulent flow, see link to thread below. Finally I use the red pressure caps to get a good seal, I found that any evaporated/condensed or splashed cleaning solution would dissolve the glue holding the cork seals in place and they would eventually give up. The read bungs work great and are very cheap.

image.png.199e863d977257c2a4eacf4d4bfa4148.png

signal-2023-05-26-162016_002.thumb.jpeg.0c88930052993543cf091403c42f284d.jpeg

signal-2023-05-26-162032_002.thumb.jpeg.f0c50386d63e8b6ef6eb9af040ee459a.jpeg

Edited by Waggy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

 

Looking for advice. As mentioned in the video (forgive me for my poor English) there are 3 cycles/programs. Now the thing which I'm struggling with, is the time each program should run. How long should the wash, rinse programs be? 
 

P.S.: For anyone who is interested.
 The "Wash" cycle runs 200rpm forward and backwards, then the speed goes up to 500prm for a short period of time, aka different agitation levels. 
 The "Rinse" is 800prm, to directions, w/o any agitation levels (configurable).

Would be nice to add a "Spin" cycle at the end of every program, to get rid of the liquids in the basket. But this probably for the times if or when the motor could be raised up from the water.

Dry is still work in progress. I would imagine, the amount or rotations doesn't matter much? Maybe keep them low and just blow dry warm air?

 

Let me know what you think. Thank you

 

 

Edited by swiss2k
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh well, if Master @nickelsilver says it's the way to go, then it is the way to go! I stand corrected! 🫡 Are there any other places where you're supposed to remove the epilame from the contact point of rubbing? I don't think so! Thanks for the effort @Neverenoughwatches, much appreciated! 🙂👍
    • If you're seeking advice for your "Harvard GSD" MArch II application essays, I'd recommend taking a thoughtful approach. Reflect deeply on your experiences, passions, and goals, and tailor your essays to showcase your unique perspective and potential contributions to the program. As for resources, I recently stumbled upon a gret platform for essays, and I must say, it's been quite helpful. Their selection of pre-written essays covers a wide range of topics, and their professional writers can also assist with custom essays tailored to your specific needs. Check out their offerings here: https://essaypro.com/essays-for-sale. Remember, authenticity is key in your application essays. Good luck!
    • For clarity and ease of testing, I redid that diagram, flipping the circuit to match the layout of the physical watch.
    • Hello, Thanks for the reply. The old jewel will get pushed out from the "outside" which is the dial side. The new jewel will get pressed in from the inside (shown below) which is the movement side, correct?     And the old jewel and spring will get pushed from the is the "outside" which is the dial side. Thank you very much for the information. I will take out the KIF spring and save it. Will update when the new jewel is in place!   Regards, Joe
    • It's a little circlip style retaining clip to keep the pinion from riding up out of position.
×
×
  • Create New...