Jump to content

Rolex 3135 Regulation

Scottster
 Share

Recommended Posts

Scottster Member

Scottster

Posted
Posted

Last year I serviced my Rolex. I thought it has been running great until I finally bought an electronic watch timer. I have spent the last few months regulating watches that I thought were running great. The timer said otherwise.

 

My rolex is running about 1.0ms out of beat. I understand how to adjust the rate with the microstella but I cant find any good information about how to adjust the beat.

 

Thanks for the help.

 

post-786-0-62542900-1434557480_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Someone more knowledgeable than me might see different but I would say its not an out of beat issue but something is amiss one side of the pallet/escapement. I think I see a vid of Mark's with this type of fault & it was a loose pallet jewel.

There are guys more experienced than me might have different views.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

That is not the vid I was thinking of. However if you look at the reading Mark was getting with that vid it has an out of beat watch BUT the reading on the timegarpher is different to the one Scottster is getting. In my opinion there is a fault with the escapement/pallet jewel on his Rolex. If it was me I would strip & clean & re-lube the escape parts of the movement.

I did have similar fault a while ago with a ETA movement.  I had forgot to lube the pallet jewels & then lower balance jewel when re-cleaned & lubed correctly the fault went.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Scottster Member

Scottster

Posted
  • Author
Posted

That is not the vid I was thinking of. However if you look at the reading Mark was getting with that vid it has an out of beat watch BUT the reading on the timegarpher is different to the one Scottster is getting. In my opinion there is a fault with the escapement/pallet jewel on his Rolex. If it was me I would strip & clean & re-lube the escape parts of the movement.

I did have similar fault a while ago with a ETA movement.  I had forgot to lube the pallet jewels & then lower balance jewel when re-cleaned & lubed correctly the fault went.

Good advice. I think there is a problem also. I will disassemble it as soon as I get a chance and go from there. Thanks for your input.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Mark Distinguished Member

Mark

Posted
Posted

The watch is out of beat but as CB says there is also another issue.

 

It could be the hairspring coils are dirty or sticking due to magnetism as the lower line is inconstant. This means something is happening during one vibration causing this. Check hairspring, ruby pin (is it clean), pallet horns (I have seen these where unevenly), pallet stones, pivot holes for balance, pallets and escape wheel. Make sure pallet stones and roller ruby pin is not loose.

 

Most likely culprit is dirt, magnetism or incorrect lubrication.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 5 months later...
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted

That is not the vid I was thinking of. However if you look at the reading Mark was getting with that vid it has an out of beat watch BUT the reading on the timegarpher is different to the one Scottster is getting. In my opinion there is a fault with the escapement/pallet jewel on his Rolex. If it was me I would strip & clean & re-lube the escape parts of the movement.

I did have similar fault a while ago with a ETA movement.  I had forgot to lube the pallet jewels & then lower balance jewel when re-cleaned & lubed correctly the fault went.

 

One of the nice characteristics of a timing machine is to see things that cannot be seen any other way. Then for diagnosing problems anything common to both pallet stones shows up with both lines. Anything that's unique to only one pallet stone shows up is only one line being affected. I've attached some images out of a timing machine manual. The most common place I've seen this is the exact same location that clockboy Is pointing out Improper lubrication on the pallet fork. In other words you just lubricated the escapement you put on the timing machine one lines a little rough you need to put a little more lubrication on problem goes away. The problem is you shouldn't see this on a watch that was serviced such a short while ago? Then if it wasn't a lubrication issue there's something wrong with one of the pallet stones. Old lubrication the was never cleaned off chipped stone something wrong with one of them.

post-673-0-54247000-1449463757_thumb.jpg

post-673-0-14083000-1449463758_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Geotex
      Generic screws for unknown movements

      By Geotex · Posted

      Chief- The picture below shows the three parts from the dial side that are most useful to "fingerprint" a movement in conjunction with the diameter of the movement.  That's why forum participants are always asking for dial side photos in posts asking for identification.  As far as the setting lever screw, it actually sits loose in the main plate. The threads engage the setting lever below, and the elongated stem above the shoulder sticks through a hole in one of the bridge plates so that it's held captive if unscrewed all the way.  So you may be fine as far as that goes. 
    • Chief
      Generic screws for unknown movements

      By Chief · Posted

      So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • AlanB
      Gilding after silver soldering

      By AlanB · Posted

      When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Can anyone identify what this is? Part Two

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • JonC
      Can anyone identify what this is? Part Two

      By JonC · Posted

      Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
×
×
  • Create New...