Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Here is a clock from my inheritance.  It still has the customer ticket attached and it appears to have been from the very early days of my dad's business.

It is ticking, but not keeping good time.  I want to service it but am confounded by its construction.

Hoping maybe someone has seen this before and can offer advice on taking it apart.  I dont want to break it through experimentation.

The winding key also functions as the setting key...like a watch, so that means the long stem is mechanically attached to the watch and there is no detent or screw visible to release it.

The sight hole exposes the regulator, so it is not associated with disassembly.

I show front view, bottom view, and back view.

2022-07-06 07_28_11-20220706_072432.jpg ‎- Photos.png

2022-07-06 07_28_30-20220706_072424.jpg ‎- Photos.png

2022-07-06 07_28_45-20220706_072415.jpg ‎- Photos.png

2022-07-06 07_29_03-20220706_072608.jpg ‎- Photos.png

Posted
25 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi First one I have seen looks like a big pocket watch. The peripheral screws on the cover look like the entry point to release the back cover .

First removing the hardware on the bottom as shown.  Then removing the two screws that hold the dial plate (two screws are missing), the whole mechanism should slip out.

That still leaves the issue of removing the stem. 

I am moving slowly so as not to mess this up.

procedure 1.png

Posted

To me this looks like a hand made put together movement and case. Unscrew this section and you should be able to remove movement from case. Remove hands and see if the movement is held to the dial by a center screw. 

1129083471_2022-07-0607_29_03-20220706_072608.jpg-Photos.png.515dc13898b430c3d2876d4df534092a.jpg

Posted
3 minutes ago, oldhippy said:

To me this looks like a hand made put together movement and case. Unscrew this section and you should be able to remove movement from case. Remove hands and see if the movement is held to the dial by a center screw. 

1129083471_2022-07-0607_29_03-20220706_072608.jpg-Photos.png.515dc13898b430c3d2876d4df534092a.jpg

I have found this clock on the web, so it is not a one off. 

You suggestion is my current plan. It is running fine but I am dying to see inside

Posted

llooks like a weird version of a  Waltham  car clock.  Now is the car clock the back would unscrew off the movement but I can't quite tell from the pictures whether that's going to be true or not..

iif it's the car clock it's just a  really big pocket watch.  A very large pocket watch that I'm not a fan of..  But if it is the car clock you should be able to remove the stem that should come out like a standard pocket watch them.. In the movement comes out however it's mounted and then  you can see how it comes out of the case..

 

  • Like 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

that's going to be true or not..

No, because, even though there are three screws that release the cover from the dial, the stem goes through a hole and there is no way for the cover to removed before removing the stem.

The stem locks in two positions...just like a wristwatch, so there is something engaged with the stem so that the movement is not going to just slide away (like on some, or perhaps most, pocket watches).  I just feel like something has to release the stem from the movement.

rear cover.png

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Finally got back to this today.  So trivial.  I just removed those nuts at the bottom and the whole stem assembly slides out.  LOL.

Here is the movement.  I am printing a movement holder for it so that I can work on it today.

2022-10-07 11_06_46-20221007_105455.jpg ‎- Photos.png

On 7/7/2022 at 6:54 AM, LittleWatchShop said:

The stem locks in two positions...just like a wristwatch, so there is something engaged with the stem so that the movement is not going to just slide away (like on some, or perhaps most, pocket watches).  I just feel like something has to release the stem from the movement.

As it turns out, the stem just slides out.  No stem-release required.

Posted
4 hours ago, oldhippy said:

Look out for wear in the trains pivot holes as its not jeweled and the pivots too for roughness. 

you have to be careful with this watch because as pointed out it is basically a seven jewel movement. Then it has two really huge mainsprings driving a intermediate wheel and then that drives the center wheel. it basically is a very peculiar watch but despite all that power the seven jewel version can definitely have running issues.

Posted
13 minutes ago, JohnR725 said:

you have to be careful with this watch because as pointed out it is basically a seven jewel movement. Then it has two really huge mainsprings driving a intermediate wheel and then that drives the center wheel. it basically is a very peculiar watch but despite all that power the seven jewel version can definitely have running issues.

Yeah, those mainsprings, have not figured out how they work together, but I haven't tried to analyze it yet. A new adventure! I love this stuff

Posted (edited)

Oh yeah, I see.  The two mainsprings are running in parallel.  Interesting.  I guess this was somehow better than one larger, more powerful, mainspring.

This movement has no jewels.

---------

I think the first time I took power off, one of the wheels (not pivot) got bent a little.  I have corrected it for the most part. 

There is no easy way to take power off on this movement.  The click is hidden, and because the two springs are in parallel and not equal, there can be tension on one and not the other.

Edited by LittleWatchShop
Posted
6 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

The two mainsprings are running in parallel.  Interesting.  I guess this was somehow better than one larger, more powerful, mainspring.

This movement has no jewels.

I have a friend who clicks military timepieces so I ended up working on the occasionally and to be honest I absolutely despise us. They're basically to deck watches over very common and that's the one by Hamilton which has a really big mainspring it's about 3 feet long and then there's Waltham and one big mainspring like Hamilton has so much better than this arrangement. but for Waltham it's a popular design they were found in car clocks military timepieces your clock they made a law to use of these.

then there is no jewels on the gear train but there is the standard seven jewels.

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...