Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello, I would like a litte advice, I got the option to buy this tool for arround 180USD and I'm wondering if you think this price is a good price for the condition.

It is the metal body version and missing the reaming stakes.

Also what is the best method to clean and mantain this tool? I'm a new member so probably better search through the forum 😅

s-l1600.png

Posted (edited)

The missing inserts (6 - 30) would concern me. I would like to have such a tool set being 99% complete.

Edited by Kalanag
  • Thanks 1
Posted
37 minutes ago, joaquin said:

Hello, I would like a litte advice, I got the option to buy this tool for arround 180USD and I'm wondering if you think this price is a good price for the condition.

It is the metal body version and missing the reaming stakes.

Also what is the best method to clean and mantain this tool? I'm a new member so probably better search through the forum 😅

s-l1600.png

Hi joaquin. Ive just been watching this same one myself on ebay less than an hour ago. i was going to bid for it but the price went above what i thought it was worth at 143 gbp. I imagined trying to source the missing parts would not be easy.

2 minutes ago, Kalanag said:

The missing inserts (6 - 30) would concern me. I woul like to have such a tool set being 99% complete.

I did feel the same way about this one so i left it alone

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Hi  You can purchase single stumps and stakes on ebay  at approx £7 a piece   so by the time you have replaced the missing parts ypu would have bought a new chinese version from Alo Express.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
18 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi  You can purchase single stumps and stakes on ebay  at approx £7 a piece   so by the time you have replaced the missing parts ypu would have bought a new chinese version from Alo Express.

I have also think about the Chinese option but I have only find horia kind of staking, the ones with the micrometer and for what I have read this ones with the pushing lever are more versatile

Also maybe I can get away using the parts I have instead of the missing ones.

 

 

1 hour ago, Kalanag said:

The missing inserts (6 - 30) would concern me. I would like to have such a tool set being 99% complete.

What's the use for those missing parts?

So I can know what things I can't do 😅

Posted (edited)
52 minutes ago, joaquin said:

What's the use for those missing parts?

So I can know what things I can't do 😅

The primary parts missing are the reamers. Looks like a few pushers are missing too, but that's not a big deal. You can get a set of reamers from Horia that will work with this tool for about 200 bucks, so to get it fully functional you're at 400 or so, which honestly is OK for a tool like this, with all the other parts that are there.

 

One really nice thing with these as opposed to Seitz is the spindle for holding the reamers takes little precision collets, made by Schaublin. Those are 80-115 bucks each in the normal sizes (more for the more oddball ones). This set looks to have them all, which would be from 0.5mm to 3mm, with an additional (in the spindle in the pic) at 2.2mm, which for whatever reason is the body size of the reamers. These are often missing some to all of them. With the additional sizes you can easily hold drills and taps, a very useful thing.

 

It won't work with Seitz reamers since they are held in a special spindle by a taper fit. But it will work with Seitz pushers, which are reasonably priced from watch material suppliers.

Edited by nickelsilver
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted

Thank you all for your answer, a lot of help.

I'm searching a manual for this tool so I can know how to use each part but only found one aboud KD staking tools.

Maybe someone knows where to get (or buy) a manual for this Favorite jewelling tool?

Posted
16 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

The primary parts missing are the reamers. Looks like a few pushers are missing too, but that's not a big deal. You can get a set of reamers from Horia that will work with this tool for about 200 bucks, so to get it fully functional you're at 400 or so, which honestly is OK for a tool like this, with all the other parts that are there.

Would the set of reamers from the image work for the favorite tool?

IMG_20220608_161155.jpg

Posted
10 minutes ago, joaquin said:

Would the set of reamers from the image work for the favorite tool?

IMG_20220608_161155.jpg

Possibly. The holder doesn't look to be 8mm, the size for the Favorite (and Seitz and Horia), but if the reamers themselves have a holding diameter in a normal metric size, they will probably fit one of the collets in the Favorite. But as these are American made and quite old, I wouldn't be surprised if they are inch on the body, and they really need to fit the holder correctly to turn true and work as they should. There are also quite a few missing sizes, 0.69, and all the ones above 1.69 to 3 (2.99)mm.

Posted

Hello again and thank you all for your help, here I am with more questions.

I'm trying to find a manual for the Favorite tool but I can't find one, at least so I can know what every piece does and what are the missing pieces.

Do you know where I can get a manual for this tool?

In the case I'm buying reamers by pieces, what are the most common sizes?

Posted
21 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

Possibly. The holder doesn't look to be 8mm, the size for the Favorite (and Seitz and Horia), but if the reamers themselves have a holding diameter in a normal metric size, they will probably fit one of the collets in the Favorite. But as these are American made and quite old, I wouldn't be surprised if they are inch on the body, and they really need to fit the holder correctly to turn true and work as they should. There are also quite a few missing sizes, 0.69, and all the ones above 1.69 to 3 (2.99)mm.

I have asked the seller and the reamers shanks measure 2mm in diameter

Posted
1 hour ago, joaquin said:

I have asked the seller and the reamers shanks measure 2mm in diameter

They should work then.

 

I have never seen a manual for the Favorite, but the Seitz manual should be available online, and the use is pretty much exactly the same.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Where I work everything incoming watches whatever detailed descriptions are taken entered into a computer program and photograph of each item. Then ideally although it depends on who's doing the paperwork detailed descriptions can be quite good other times there lacking. Like I really like it with pocket watches if they would record the serial number it avoids confusion later on. Then when watch repairs are completed that is also entered in. It's one of the amusements I learned when I was in school instructor had a shop and commented about the important aspect of keeping detailed records of repairs. Because oftentimes a customer who got a new crystal will come back later on when the watch doesn't work and expect you to fix the entire watch for free. Then you can remind them that they just got a crystal. Strangely enough that keeps coming up or occasionally comes up where I work now. One of the problems of using the service marks on the case is that in the case of pocket watches oftentimes that's not the original case. Then case marks? What I was doing warranty work for a company I used to describe a code number in the back of the case and it would tell me the next time I see the watch that basically what I did I made no attempt at keeping track of customers because we had literally thousands of them I think they sold 30,000 of these watches and they would come back by the hundreds because they had a lifetime warranty. Yes that's a story all of itself but I would put a code number that would reference what was done to the watch the last time and think I had a date in there somehow so it did tell a story if you knew the code. Another shop I once worked out the number would reference the page in the book. So other than knowing we had been in there you would have no idea what happened because you have to go look at the page in the book to see what happened. Then the problem of how you examine a watch you should examine the watch in detail every single time to avoid complications. Although on vintage watches and this is a of amusement I have at work when people ask something and I say of the watches done when it leaves. This is because on vintage oftentimes problems won't show up until the watches much farther into the repair like it's now running and you discover things that you can't discover before because it wasn't running to discover them that also become sometimes difficult to have exact rigid prices are estimates of repairs or in the case of a pocket watch you may not find out if a casing problem to later on when you case it up in the watches running. I was just thinking for all those people that would like to leave a mark maybe you should learn to do what some of the past watchmakers did? Leave a mark but leave it in such a way that no one will ever find it? Typically not done for repair purposes but done for other reasons like identifying it's legit. I have a friend with a Gruen watch and one of the Roman numbers the bottom line that just looks like a line under extreme magnification actually says Gruen watch company or something equivalent. So here's a link showing how to mark your watch without being seen although that's not the actual title. So if you can learn micro engraving you can engrave the watch someplace probably just about any place you just have to remember where you put it. https://cnaluxury.channelnewsasia.com/obsessions/how-to-prove-if-watches-are-authentic-secret-signatures-182516  
    • I have acquired a Citizen Leopard 36000 watch. My reason for purchasing it was my desire to own a timepiece with a 36,000 BPH movement, and the price was reasonable. Another motivating factor was gaining hands-on experience with the mechanism. The watch is in good condition, but I intend to fully disassemble it for maintenance. First and foremost, if anyone has prior experience with this particular model, I would greatly appreciate their insights. I do not have access to Citizen’s specialized lubricants and will need to use the ones available to me, such as 9010, 8000, and 8300 grease. Additionally, I do not possess the appropriate oil for the pallet jewels and will only be able to clean them.
    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
×
×
  • Create New...