Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all,

I am working with an Illinois Bunn Special Model 9. When I opened the watch I found the impulse jewel missing, but found it during disassembly. The roller is a 2-piece double roller, with the part # of the impulse roller being 651 (catalog number 6237).

The confusion I have is that the jewel hole is round. Not oval, but perfectly circular. You can see an image of the part here:

https://pocketwatchdatabase.com/search/result/illinois/4006134/parts/catalog/651/Bunn Special

However, the jewel I have is D-shaped. I have never heard of perfectly circular roller jewels. It feels like this jewel must be a later replacement, where the guy was unable to find the correct jewel.

I refit the jewel into the hole, but obviously I am worried about the longevity of this fix given the different shape of hole and jewel.

My question is, does the watch really take a D-shaped roller in a round hole? Or is there a round jewel out there that I should try to find?

Thanks in advance.

Posted (edited)

Hi John

I found this from an old NAWCC forum response;

Sometimes the manufacturers drilled a round hole even if the roller table was intended to hold a D shaped jewel. It was done because it is less costly to drill a round hole than to drill a hole then ream to a D shape, and it serves the same purpose. The D shaped roller supplies a more powerful impulse than the round jewel will, so I would advise using a D shaped jewel.

 

you can use a D style roller jewel in place of the oval roller jewel, if the supply house have oval jewels that will be a new one on me. Been at the bench for 52 years and even though your watch had a oval and most likely factory there is no problem using the D style as long as the slot opening on the tail of the pallet fork has the correct size and you have properly shellacked it in place.

 

Hope this helps

 

Randy

Edited by Randy55
  • Thanks 1
Posted

@Randy55that's really helpful, thanks so much. The D-shaped jewel I have is indeed a perfect fit in the fork notch. I've got it shellacked in now, so we'll see if it will hold. So far so good. Thanks again!

  • Like 1
Posted
11 hours ago, JohnC said:

I have never heard of perfectly circular roller jewels.

From the beginning of time roller jewel's did Come in a variety shapes including round. Usually all the weird shapes were in the earlier versions of watches. Typically on a lot of single roller watches the hole was drilled round and you're still stuck trying to get a half Round jewel into the hole kind of a pain it's much nicer if the whole is properly shaped.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

@JohnR725eeah a total pain for sure. I got there but had to use more shellac then I think I would like. We will see if it holds..

Edited by JohnC
Posted

 We had a relevent  discussion showing how to adjust the jewel as its suppose to be concentric with the staff, otherwise it will mess up the lift angle, wont it? 

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
    • Get well soon Old Hippy, torn muscles.,  not good
    • Id love to see how he has the output shaft mounted to this setup, as I have the same rotary stage and stepper in my build.
    • If you see at least one thread protruding, or even a half, then you may have a chance using this "tool", but don't squeeze hard. Lot's of patience, and if you notice any signs of loctite or other adhesives, then apply several drops of acetone on top of broken stem. Use heat (hair dryer) also. You should be able gradually turn it counterclockwise, just like i did on this broken Timex stem, which was glued with something like nail hardener. Then you can use an extender to save your broken stem. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513DVvkfW5L.__AC_SX300_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg   You can also try cutting a small grove / slot on top of the broken stem to use 0.7mm flat screwdriver.   Depending on the Crown material and Stem material, you can try dissolving the stem. 
×
×
  • Create New...