my job lot with a Seiko 5 in it

[Tiny]

@XYZZY

 

 

So I've been talking to a gent on facebook about this watch ( this gent works for Seiko) and yes he say's you are spot on with the information and the glass that was on this watch again you are spot on he like you supplied me with a image.

 

I really think that the watch should have the original glass rather that a flat or domed glass so I have (yep) ordered one,also the grain run's from top to bottom (lug to lug) I haven't ordered a strap yet but I think I'm going to order this one from cousins uk

 

I know the image he supplied is not a 

Seiko 7400 watch case

[Neverenoughwatches]

On 4/23/2022 at 10:42 AM, Tiny said:

Well after a over night bath with a sonic shower finish with a G&T no ice lol

looks much cleaner now. cleaned and showing damage. 

would this watch have a grain finish, satin, or mirror finish but most of all how would you finish this case? 

only asking because I am a new bee

Mike at Retro watches does a lot of seikos he loves them.  There are some vids on case and bracket restoration.  Take it with a grain of salt though, I'm still angry with him for making me ruin my grandfather's watch by putting it in soapy water. If you're  watching Mike you owe me a sentimental Raketa . It might give you a idea or two Tiny.

On 4/21/2022 at 6:41 PM, Tiny said:

Hello again so I have put my Orient 1743 on the todo list while some seller's get back to me with hopefully a stem.

I did mention that it was part of a job lot from ebay, well I have a Seiko 5 watch that needs Seiko glass and again Cousins have stopped selling the part I'm after.

 

So the Seiko is as follows Calibre is 7019 a

I believe the case is 7400 so on the case back it reads 7019-7400

I also have the number 702314 I think this number is 7 is 1970 0 is October and 2314 is the watch addition two thousand three hundred and fourteen in the production run

So I need a case glass of which the part number I think is Glass, Seiko 300W41GC0F but discontinued . also I have searched on ebay and only one item came up in my search and that was sold out again dead end however if it had been in stock would have cost £50.00 with delivery so my next question is is this watch worth that sort of pay out. I bought 7 watches in this lot from ebay at £40.00 but I think the expensive part have been striped from these watches and sold on.

Glass missing from some of the watches, backs missing, stem's missing O'and my favorite a bent nail holding a strap together. 

 

where should I go from here?

what would you do

Tiny mate think positively.  1. You've learnt not to buy a Seiko that has a broken crystal, unless it has value  2. You've learnt not to buy anything that doesn't  have a case back unless it has value, 3 you've learnt not to buy anything that doesn't have a stem unless you can source or make one or it has value. 4 you've learnt not to buy a watch that has has a nail holding a strap together unless the nail is gold and has value. 5 you've learnt to ask uncle Rich to help you and give you some tips on buying watches that aren't too broken and will have value. That's 5 big positives in my book for 40 quid, money well spent. Good value.

Seriously don't let it get you down, I've been there and so has everyone on here at some point. Next time you will do better I promise you, because I'll bloody make sure you do. So now you can start a spare parts cabinet can't you , that will be fun, see we're all having fun. Its all good here X

[xyzzy]

On 4/25/2022 at 7:45 AM, Tiny said:

also the grain run's from top to bottom (lug to lug) I haven't ordered a strap yet but I think I'm going to order this one from cousins uk

 

While the grain running lengthwise down the band would be the most common style, it doesn't look that way in the pictures.

I don't think that band will fit well.  The original band has special small end links that fit inside the recessed area under case.  That band has normal curved end links, which clearly won't fit at all.  I think you'd have to take them off and attach the small link on the end.  But, it's probably too narrow to properly fill the space, so the band will slide from side to side.  It also might be too short, causing the large link to hit the edge of the case.

Your original band doesn't look too bad.  The center links can be re-bent closed if they have pulled open. 

The movement spacing ring can just be glued.  It just fills space to keep the movement in position and doesn't need to be strong.  You don't even need to glue it.

[ObsessiveHorologist]

Once you've built the movement you'll want to wear it for a few days to make sure everything is OK - tricky without a crystal!
For these all but obsolete crystals (particularly the cut glass ones) I've had success with Sternkreuz after market replacements, particularly their XMF line.  For your crystal 300W41GC0F, the first three numbers are the diameter (30mm),  you can search the SK catalog for the phrase 'XMF 300'  and you should get three Seiko results - XMF 300.860, XMF 300.862, and XMF 300.863.  These are all flat topped, not cut like the original.
These are available from cousins for 3.95 GBP.  I'd suggest you try the .863 as it's thickest, with a corresponding increase in bevel diameter which is needed to optically hide the gasket underneath.  These are not guaranteed to work, but the angled bevel will likely match the original glass so chances are good.  You'll need a crystal press in order to fit it - the blue Chinese ones are good enough.
If the watch keeps good time, and you like wearing it, then by all means consider splashing out on the original cut glass crystal - ( but be warned they chip easily! )

I think your bracelet is original, or at least close.

Jake O

[Neverenoughwatches]

12 hours ago, ObsessiveHorologist said:

Once you've built the movement you'll want to wear it for a few days to make sure everything is OK - tricky without a crystal!
For these all but obsolete crystals (particularly the cut glass ones) I've had success with Sternkreuz after market replacements, particularly their XMF line.  For your crystal 300W41GC0F, the first three numbers are the diameter (30mm),  you can search the SK catalog for the phrase 'XMF 300'  and you should get three Seiko results - XMF 300.860, XMF 300.862, and XMF 300.863.  These are all flat topped, not cut like the original.
These are available from cousins for 3.95 GBP.  I'd suggest you try the .863 as it's thickest, with a corresponding increase in bevel diameter which is needed to optically hide the gasket underneath.  These are not guaranteed to work, but the angled bevel will likely match the original glass so chances are good.  You'll need a crystal press in order to fit it - the blue Chinese ones are good enough.
If the watch keeps good time, and you like wearing it, then by all means consider splashing out on the original cut glass crystal - ( but be warned they chip easily! )

I think your bracelet is original, or at least close.

Jake O

Great information for Tiny

[Tiny]

so I'm sat in my den/conservatory/converted stripping this watch down. I've striped the day and date discs of and O'my god it looks quite complicated to other watches I've seen on youtube and 'just the date side

 

[Neverenoughwatches]

5 hours ago, Tiny said:

so I'm sat in my den/conservatory/converted stripping this watch down. I've striped the day and date discs of and O'my god it looks quite complicated to other watches I've seen on youtube and 'just the date side

 

T. Take your time. Whenever I have something complicated  I take photos at every piece I take out then use them as a reference.  Another way I sometimes  work is, I take a couple of parts out then i put them back in again. Do this few times with each part you remove. If you imagine that you've stripped a dozen watches down all of the same make and calibre, from that point on every time you work on that calibre it would be second nature yes ? Apply that same methodology.  Part strip and then reassemble, and then keep progressing a couple of parts at a time. Your brain will automatically retain the progression. Do this as opposed to a full strip down and then having to remember how it all goes back. It's really good practice  as well. Let me know how that goes. If you are unsure as to what I'm saying then just ask fella

2 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

T. Take your time. Whenever I have something complicated  I take photos at every piece I take out then use them as a reference.  Another way I sometimes  work is, I take a couple of parts out then i put them back in again. Do this few times with each part you remove. If you imagine that you've stripped a dozen watches down all of the same make and calibre, from that point on every time you work on that calibre it would be second nature yes ? Apply that same methodology.  Part strip and then reassemble, and then keep progressing a couple of parts at a time. Your brain will automatically retain the progression. Do this as opposed to a full strip down and then having to remember how it all goes back. It's really good practice  as well. Let me know how that goes. If you are unsure as to what I'm saying then just ask fella

Do you know what I mean ? I always try to explain things in an easy to understand way. 

[Tiny]

So I've been stripping down the Seiko 5 this morning 

 

 

I was just wondering if I could use these lens wipes for glasses when dried out as watch paper. 

 

 

I do have a question about screws. how do you keep track of what screw goes where also do you wash the screws as well

 

[gbyleveldt]

7 hours ago, Tiny said:

 

 

I do have a question about screws. how do you keep track of what screw goes where also do you wash the screws as well

 

You either take lots of pics or make a video. I found making a video to be best. Another option is to put screws back into their position after you removed whatever it held in place.

[Neverenoughwatches]

8 hours ago, Tiny said:

So I've been stripping down the Seiko 5 this morning 

 

 

I was just wondering if I could use these lens wipes for glasses when dried out as watch paper. 

 

 

I do have a question about screws. how do you keep track of what screw goes where also do you wash the screws as well

 

Needs to be lint free T.Watch paper is pretty cheap . A pack will last you years

8 hours ago, Tiny said:

So I've been stripping down the Seiko 5 this morning 

 

 

I was just wondering if I could use these lens wipes for glasses when dried out as watch paper. 

 

 

I do have a question about screws. how do you keep track of what screw goes where also do you wash the screws as well

 

Photos T. And grouping them. Barrel bridge with screws,  train bridge with screws, pallet cock with screws,  balance cock with screws. Dial screws screw back in.  Calender works with screws, setting lever with screw. It does look like you've more or less done that. To be honest mate you've started with a fairly complicated watch for your first. A nice vintage  Swiss time only would be a better starting point. Or a mainspring pocket watch. They tend to be quite cheap.

Edited May 2, 2022 by Neverenoughwatches

[Tiny]

So after waiting for 6 weeks for my glass to arrive I received a refund this morning so now it's back to ordering and then "yes" waiting until the 19th July for the arrival of yet another glass.

 

 

Heard a quote yesterday what was fitting

the only thing you can't recycle is wasted time.

[tikkertok]

Hi tiny,     the reference you made earlier to the 'bent nail holding the bracelet together' put me in mind of a situation I was confronted with recently.  I was stumped by the method Seiko used to attach this case and bracelet,         

 

 

I have no idea how this is done in the factory, but I am a bit dense.  I got round it in the end by pressing a straight spring bar through the case.

 

 

5m62-0cc0  090044  kinetic

 

[Tiny]

Well I was set for a long wait as estimated delivery was 8th - 18th July.

I ordered on the 23rd June and it arrived today 29th June 

So now I'm a proud owner of a Seiko gen glass for this piece of History just waiting for a main spring to arrive (Number three) Hope I don't bend it this time.

I have bought a small vice to hold the winder handle in while I move the end of the spring into the slot 'this is where I struggle' to finish winding the spring 

Vice was needed for winder and to hold a watch while I cut some strap pin of a watch   

[Neverenoughwatches]

On 6/29/2022 at 4:18 PM, Tiny said:

just waiting for a main spring to arrive (Number three) Hope I don't bend it this time.

I have bought a small vice to hold the winder handle in while I move the end of the spring into the slot 'this is where I struggle' to finish winding the spring 

I have my fingers crossed for you T. The vice held winder will at least free up one hand so you can focus on getting the last bit of the spring into the winder. Your only other option would be to buy a barrel complete if you can find one and not cheap. Just take your time and be patient . Same goes for fitting the crystal. There's a couple here on the forum that are big Seiko fans, they will help you with any tips to get the jobs done. Gbylevedt is great and knows his stuff. 

[Tiny]

@NeverenoughwatchesThank you I looking at winding tomorrow yes the bit at the end of the spring is jointed at the very end so that alone makes it really hard to feed. I've tried all ways from holding the end down with crimped wire to hold the spring together trying to mark the spring so I stop in time to feed the spring but all have failed. I'm hoping having the winder handle in a vice will work. I've used 4 springs so far but on a good note I have found a supplier of springs on ebay 

[Neverenoughwatches]

16 minutes ago, Tiny said:

@NeverenoughwatchesThank you I looking at winding tomorrow yes the bit at the end of the spring is jointed at the very end so that alone makes it really hard to feed. I've tried all ways from holding the end down with crimped wire to hold the spring together trying to mark the spring so I stop in time to feed the spring but all have failed. I'm hoping having the winder handle in a vice will work. I've used 4 springs so far but on a good note I have found a supplier of springs on ebay 

Hi T . Just a couple of things. Do your new springs not come already wound, set on a pvc backing so that you can press them straight in ? The other thing is your winder feed in slot big enough to take the spring and the tang ? Post some good close up pictures tomorrow as you are doing it. More important than anything dont force anything, if it wont go then back it off and have a rethink. Have you got good vision on what you are doing ? I use a pair of really cheap 3+ reading glasses when I'm not using a scope or a bench magnifying lens. Good clear sight of any watch repair is an absolute must.