I've managed to make this 2784 even worst!

[panchoskywalker]

While trying to fix this eta 2784 which was running and stopping, I 've manage to make it worst.

I dismantled the train wheels a few times and now I think I got it right but it still don't run. The balance wheel is ok and balance freely. But it still doesn't work.

What' wrong in this video? This should not happen right?

 

 

 

[ifibrin]

If you’re tinkering with a movement in a watch case, that’s your first problem. All movement work should be done only once the movement has been removed from the watch case. The only exceptions are removal of the rotor (and rotor bridge) or if you are doing minor adjustments to the balance regulator.

Anyway, if you can get the train wheels to spin freely by turning the barrel, it could mean one of the train wheels is not engaging with the rest of the train wheels (such as a broken escape wheel), or a broken pallet fork not locking.

[JohnR725]

8 hours ago, panchoskywalker said:

I dismantled the train wheels a few times and now I think I got it right but it still don't run. The balance wheel is ok and balance freely. But it still doesn't work

Usually in watch repair we try not to put the watch back into the case until it's running and usually don't disassemble the watch in the case as already stated above.

Then when you putting things together you shouldn't see the scenario at all? That's because when you put the wheels in and the pallet forks not there yet or the balance wheel you can make sure the entire train is spinning all the way to the escape wheel. Then once you verified that you can put the pallet fork in. Then you can lubricate the escapement and make sure the pallet fork snaps back and forth under power. Then the balance wheel can finally go in.

 

[watchweasol]

First thing to do is get the movement out of the case then remove the balance assy, next the fork next the mainspring and bridge and the train. Verify the pivots on all the train wheels and escapewheel, the fork pivots and the jewels in the fork are intact. Now start to re assemble the watch mainspring and train now verify the train freedom right up to and including the escape wheel if all ok fit the fork put a couple of turns on the spring and check the fork action to the bankings , is it snappy and crisp when moved then fit the balance and test thr watch.  when running satisfactorily , then case th watch and re test.    Doing things while it is still cased is making hard work of it and you can not see the various parts and their relationship with others.  Bad practise.

[panchoskywalker]

Thanks for all your comments, I've managed to fix it. The problem was that the escape wheel was broken, so it was like too short and keep coming out, I replaced it and now it works but I've another problem:

- The second wheel pin is also too short and the second hand keep falling out, my guess is that the pin is also broken inside the movement so it doesn't come out "enough" on the dial side, does that make sense?

[watchweasol]

Ys it makes sense  the center wheel top is broken off hence the sweep hand falls off,  parts sheet attached.

496_ETA2750,1,2,6,4 (4).pdf

[Nucejoe]

Lets see how long the tube of minute hand is. 

[panchoskywalker]

4 hours ago, Nucejoe said:

Lets see how long the tube of minute hand is. 

What does it has to do? Do you think the minute wheel might be misplaced?

[Nucejoe]

I was thinking tightening the tube might do, thats if its long enough.

[panchoskywalker]

I've managed to install the second hand by tightening the "hand's tube".

 

 

[panchoskywalker]

Watch is now working but sometimes the hour and minute hand stop moving while the second hand keep moving. The weird thing is that it can happen while it's on my wrist and it can also happen when the watch is on my desk and I don't touch it. 

I guess it's the cannon  pinion but how can it move when the watch is on my desk?

 

[JohnR725]

When you manually set the watch do you feel any friction at all? I was looking it's one of those other kind of cannon  pinion that I'm too lazy to look up the actual term is basically the cannon  pinion snaps into a wheel. The problem with these are they can become very very loose. This is a common thing on one of the bowl of a tuning fork watches the 218 where the Canon pinion itself might get stuck to the center shaft and the watch trying to power it will cause it to slip to the point where the hands typically don't move at all but the second hand keeps on moving because it is now no longer any friction there.

Another thing to do is to take the movement out of the case and push on the hands themselves and see if you have any friction at all which I'm suspecting they do not.

 

[panchoskywalker]

Just now, JohnR725 said:

When you manually set the watch do you feel any friction at all? I was looking it's one of those other kind of cannon  pinion that I'm too lazy to look up the actual term is basically the cannon  pinion snaps into a wheel. The problem with these are they can become very very loose. This is a common thing on one of the bowl of a tuning fork watches the 218 where the Canon pinion itself might get stuck to the center shaft and the watch trying to power it will cause it to slip to the point where the hands typically don't move at all but the second hand keeps on moving because it is now no longer any friction there.

Another thing to do is to take the movement out of the case and push on the hands themselves and see if you have any friction at all which I'm suspecting they do not.

 

Ok, you mean to take the movement out when the hands are stuck and check if there's friction...if they are loose it means the cannon pinion got out of place. I will try that.

[JohnR725]

7 minutes ago, panchoskywalker said:

Ok, you mean to take the movement

I don't care of the hands are stuck or not when the movement is out gently push on the minute hand and see if it has any friction in other words you should build it easily push it if you push hard enough it will move but if it seems to have zero friction that's where you have a problem.

A trim something out of the tech sheet up above this is your cannon pinion  Although technically  call this something else because it's really a two-part system. So what you perceive as the cannon pinion Steps in the brass wheel and that is where that becomes super loose. As I said you may be able to whether it's in the case try to set the watch and if you're feeling zero friction that's a problem. Sometimes you feel the crown and the case tube if it has one of those so it's hard to tell. Out of the case you may build a field basically there is no friction role for the hands. Also as I said where if you push on the minute hand gently you'll find it probably effortlessly moves that is also a problem

[panchoskywalker]

Thank you, I'll check that tomorrow.

[panchoskywalker]

@JohnR725

I've swapped the cannon pinion with a spar one I had and the watch is now working fine, it doesn't stop and it keep great time. The only thing is that setting time is quite hard so I think it needs a service but I will use it for a while before bringing it to a watchmaker.