Jump to content

Oiling Incabloc Combined Bushings


Recommended Posts

Hi  I should have a search on the watch fix site as our host Mark Lovick as I recall showed how to do this.  Usually it means dismantling the setting and oiling the cap stone and re fitting or the use of a bergeon oil pen to introduce oil through the jewel hole.  Probably Nicklesilver who is a professional will lend his expertise to the question.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to have a Bergeon automatic oiler, but it has long since disappeared. I didn't like it as I could never be certain how clean it was at the tip.

 

For jewels such as these, or old fashioned assembled cap and hole jewels as one might encounter in any watch made before Incabloc or Kif existed, I put a small amount of oil on the hole jewel, then push it through to the cap jewel. There are specific tools for this you can buy from your supplier; I use tiny taper pins that are intended for hairspring pinning.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, nickelsilver said:

I used to have a Bergeon automatic oiler, but it has long since disappeared. I didn't like it as I could never be certain how clean it was at the tip.

 

For jewels such as these, or old fashioned assembled cap and hole jewels as one might encounter in any watch made before Incabloc or Kif existed, I put a small amount of oil on the hole jewel, then push it through to the cap jewel. There are specific tools for this you can buy from your supplier; I use tiny taper pins that are intended for hairspring pinning.

How would you clean such a combined bushing? Pegging it with pegwood would appear impossible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, ifibrin said:

How would you clean such a combined bushing? Pegging it with pegwood would appear impossible.

I ultrasound them in L&R #111 cleaner, rinse twice in #3 Rinse and finally benzine.

I also place a drop of oil in the jewel hole and use a broken oiler, which I sharpened to a needle point, to wick the oil into the setting.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

I ultrasound them in L&R #111 cleaner, rinse twice in #3 Rinse and finally benzine.

I also place a drop of oil in the jewel hole and use a broken oiler, which I sharpened to a needle point, to wick the oil into the setting.

So you wouldn’t peg it then? I imagine if this was a movement where the oil had congealed, cleaning with ultrasound only might not remove it entirely. Have to press it out with a jeweling tool then?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, ifibrin said:

So you wouldn’t peg it then? I imagine if this was a movement where the oil had congealed, cleaning with ultrasound only might not remove it entirely. Have to press it out with a jeweling tool then?

You have to try the L&R cleaners. They do such an amazing job that even fully assembled incabloc jewels come out clean.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, HectorLooi said:

You have to try the L&R cleaners. They do such an amazing job that even fully assembled incabloc jewels come out clean.

Wow. Not having to peg jewels does sound very appealing! Sharpening peg wood is a very time consuming and tedious endeavor. How is the smell of the cleaners like? Very solvent heavy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Kalanag said:

My JLC 889/1 has two combined bushings as bearings for thr escape wheel. Can somebody tell me how to oil these bearings without a automatic oiler? Thanks for any hint!

Karl

85164DC6-F9EE-4FD8-AEE3-0B9671196882.jpeg

 Back to your question, after you have cleaned the entire bridge/plate with the bushing jewel, you can oil the cup in the jewel on the opposite side with a normal Oiler. You then have to use a needle or a sharpened Oiler to poke the hole jewel through the oil cup, wicking the oil from the cup to the gap in between the hole jewel and the endstone.

Edited by ifibrin
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, ifibrin said:

Wow. Not having to peg jewels does sound very appealing! Sharpening peg wood is a very time consuming and tedious endeavor. How is the smell of the cleaners like? Very solvent heavy?

I use it in jeweller's cleaning jars, which have sealed covers. So no smell escapes. But if you put your nose to the jar, then it's bad.

The only downside is we have to get it from the local supplier which charges 180SGD for 2.5L of each solution. And they don't alway have stock. It is classified as a hazardous substance and can only be shipped in, which take 2 months.

 

1 minute ago, ifibrin said:

 Back to your question, after you have cleaned the entire bridge/plate with the jewel, you can oil the cup in the jewel on the opposite side with a normal Oiler. You then have to use a needle or a sharpened Oiler to wick the oil from the cup to the gap in between the hole jewel and the endstone.

That's exactly right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

I used to have a Bergeon automatic oiler, but it has long since disappeared. I didn't like it as I could never be certain how clean it was at the tip.

Couldn't the tip just be pushed into a clean piece of pith wood and then be blown off (like an ordinary oiler), or am I missing something here?

Anyway, a disadvantage of the the automatic oiler that I have, the Bergeon 1A, is that the diameter of the tip is too wide for some very small jewel holes, like the those for the capped jewel holes of some Seiko and Orient watches (3rd and escape wheel). In those cases an Incabloc oiler (or similar) is really what's required. For anyone interested here's my video review of the Bergeon Automatic Oiler 1A.

4 hours ago, nickelsilver said:

There are specific tools for this you can buy from your supplier;

Here are some pictures of it:

0020.thumb.jpg.8a940f2e22696df170b08f1ceb266a01.jpg

0030.thumb.jpg.4043404aeff78d3877e2987afd6bf27e.jpg

Edited by VWatchie
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I’ve been working on a 7750 with some success - so far not broken or lost anything and have the base movement up and running well. I’ve reassembled the chronograph mechanism and I have a problem with the minute recording. The finger on the centre wheel is at the wrong angle - it hits the minute driving wheel and the watch stops, unless I give a little nudge and then it carries on.    The tech sheet says to check for 0.02mm clearance (figure B) which I haven’t got. Can I adjust the finger on the chrono wheel, or should I get a replacement? Is there anything else to consider?
    • Thanks for the clear explanation.  
    • Yesterday a Rolex cal. 3135 landed in my hands housed in a Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date reference 15200. Having analysed its running (fully wound) using @praezis excellent PCTM software, nothing is alarming or acute, nevertheless, my conclusion is that it's up for and could benefit from a service. I'd like to know if someone has a different opinion. Pictures to follow... However, what is alarming is that the rotor is loose, and unfortunately, I think it's pretty bad as the rotor won't even oscillate when the watch is in a dial-down position and gently shaken.  It also makes an unpleasant metallic sound when the rotor is spinning, so I hope it hasn't caused too much damage. Unfortunately, I have not been able to confirm this visually as I do not have the correct tool to open the case back and do not want to take chances with my JAXA opener. No doubt a repair is needed, and if a repair is done a service should of course be done as well. I guess I just answered my question 🤨 After reading this thread started by @dibs1, I guess that the rotor axle is worn out and needs to be replaced. dibs1, you mention that you replaced it "using the proper staking punch". It would be interesting if you (or someone else!) could tell us a bit more about how that operation is done. I also read somewhere that "There is a brass 'bearing' or similar, in the movement that wears out and starts to leave brass shavings in the surrounding around". I have no doubt that I would be able to carry out a service but I feel a little unsure about how advanced the rotor repair is and what tools are required. So any handy tips would be greatly appreciated!
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • Hello, I am French and Canadian, based in Montreal for 11 years now. I am a watch addict, specially vintage watches or watches with an history. I have always been fascinated by the ingenuity of watch movements and I have decided recently to learn more about them by taking Mark's courses on watchfix.com I will certainly learn a lot from you all, I am therefore looking forward to participating in this forum.
×
×
  • Create New...