Jump to content

colour coded oil pins

Recommended Posts

Hello all noobie here

So I'm getting ready to strip down a watch and clean it and then lubricate the watch parts.


I have armed myself with oil and grease also fixodrop, also added to the mix I have bought a oil well and oiling pins in different colors but I'm having finding information on what color pin to use. Is there a chart or video explaining what oil pin to use.

I have tried searching this web forum or info also the internet but sadly my lack of knowledge has made it hard to find what I need to search for  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Tiny said:

I have bought a oil well and oiling pins in different colors but I'm having finding information on what color pin to use. Is there a chart or video explaining what oil pin to use.

There is no chart or standard relating handle colors to different lubricants. The economy oilers you've bought are probably all of the same size, that's unlike the better quality, their colors represent the tip size. You use the bigger ones to place more lubricant into a large area e.g. a barrel wall or lid, the smaller where very little oil has to go precisely on a spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So jdm do you or others have any advice on size of pin to use.

If I think about it I would go with the finest size and just use that for all the oil and maybe the next size to add the grease.




Link to comment
Share on other sites

Different manufacturers use the colours in different ways to indicate tip size, though it seems that black is used by (almost) all for the finest in a set. The sizes themselves are not standardised, so one manufacturer's "very fine" might be like another's "fine". Add to that the different tip shapes (sharp point, spade etc). Also, the amount of oil collected by the tip depends on viscosity and technique. For example, if you lift the oiler slowly and vertically out of your oil pot, you will collect much less than if you lay it flat and lift quickly. There is no correct tip size for a specific lubrication type.

The chart you are searching for doesn't exist. The correct amount of oil in the right place is the result you need, and the only way to get there is to know what is right, learn how to use the tools you have and practice a lot. It doesn't really matter how you get to that result. Use the finest oiler you have and add oil bit by bit if you want. Its quicker than adding too much in one go, then having to strip and re-clean. Look on this forum and elsewhere for advice on the correct amount of oil or grease in any particular place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  These are the places where I oiled with HP 1300...  I can see that the cannon pinion is moving as it should once I installed the pallet fork. I created a small video but was not able to upload it. It is a mov file type. I need now to source a GR4014X mainspring, a stop ever #9433 and both calendar disc as the days/dates are peeling out... This is the mido watch which holds the ETA Movement.... I just want to thanks all of you guys for your help, specially @eccentric59 who nailed it! So, I would consider this case as closed unless of course any question from any of you... Best regards Fernando     I could not download the file... I will tray to located. Many thanks. 
    • Thanks a lot everyone!  I'll update you as soon as a final decision has been made by my friend (and depending on her decision, what I may find inside). 
    • Thanks Marc, clearly I have a lot to learn about metallurgy. I’d expect the cutting of tool or spring steel to be a lot harder to cut into a precise shape- I expect I’d have to anneal it first? 
    • Unfortunately if you have used mild steel you will have little hope of hardening and tempering it, it simply doesn't contain enough carbon. You need to use a steel with a higher carbon content like tool steel or spring steel. One good source for this is engineers feeler gauges which can be picked up relatively inexpensively and provide a range of thicknesses of material. this will then harden and temper in pretty much the way you have described.
    • Thanks for this excellent tutorial and very fine illustrations @Jon! Really first class! 👍 I noticed that your image was a bit too small to read with ease, so here's a larger copy of it. I summarized @nickelsilver's method for adjusting beat errors to the following, but you can find all the info in the thread I linked to: “For everyday work, from the smallest ladies’ movements to marine chronometer, I set the balance with the cock on a bench block so the roller table is in a hole, balance on the block. Lift up the cock and move it over- not flipping it, just moving laterally, until I can see the slot in the hairspring collet, get in there and adjust (for tiny watches this is usually with an oiler, larger, a small screwdriver). Go back in the watch and check on the machine. I hold a balance arm of the rim with tweezers while moving the collet.”    
  • Create New...