Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hi 

I got a Omega movement that has been exposed to severe moisture but surprisingly, the balance is moving freely and alive. I brushed the surfaces with WD-40 and have disassembled 70 percent of the movement. There are still few screws stuck. Any chemical or mechanical alternatives to use get it all apart? And what to use and how would you clean each part? Appreciate your thoughts on this. 

 

 

Screenshot_20220318-160720.png

Edited by Khan
Posted

How's the setting lever screw? You'll have to remove the movement, then try to get the dial and hands off to get working with disassembly. I would suggest putting a little bit of WD-40 (with a toothpick or peg wood) onto ALL the screws Especially the crown and ratchet wheel screws, and let sit overnight--You might be able to get them off that way. The ratchet screw looks cooked (i.e. may break before coming out), but you can try.

To clean the balance, and the remainder of the movement, try overnight soak in hot black tea. It works better than lemon juice or vinegar. You can rinse the next day and use an old toothbrush to get the oxidation off. I think the crown and ratchet wheels are beyond salvaging, but if you get he screws off, you can deal with replacing them. These suggestions are just to remove the rust and assess if the particular part can be salvaged or not.

 

J

Posted

Thanks for the tips and tricks. 

Setting lever button is super stuck but figured to pull the stem out anyway. The screw for balance bridge and the movement holders are still stuck wherefore I can't remove the dial yet. I may have to soak them the screw heads for a bit longer. 

Screenshot_20220318-170546.png

Screenshot_20220318-170555.png

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Khan said:

Thanks for the tips and tricks. 

Setting lever button is super stuck but figured to pull the stem out anyway. The screw for balance bridge and the movement holders are still stuck wherefore I can't remove the dial yet. I may have to soak them the screw heads for a bit longer. 

 

 

Ok, good job! The mainspring barrel looks like it can be salvaged--check the teeth. Rust on every major component.... Be super careful with the balance.

Edited by noirrac1j
Posted

 I soaked a hairspring in vinegar but then it broke in unltrasonic ( solution in ultrasonic was ligther fluid) .

I think in your case penetrating oil on cock screw and patience perhaps two days , is your only choice.

Coca Cola soak will work but not before you remove the dial, its advantage is that you soak the whole movement, loosens everything.

Do not hurry, long soaks in Coke can't hurt.

Good luck.

 

Posted

Hello guys 

Thanks for all the ideas 

I miraculously disassembled everything now and temporarily having parts in a wd-40 bath and will try on the coke and black tea method. Patience is everything ☺️

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Interesting comment about the use of Coke to remove rust, not long ago I was searching the University of YouTube for a similar issue with a rusty movement.

I watched quite a few comparisons between all the common and some not so common methods and in every single one they found the one method that removed zero rust was Coke.

Perhapse they should have used the other type of Coke instead of Coca-Cola, the white powder version not Pepsi 😉

So will be interesting to hear your experiences with it.

 

Edited by Paul80
Posted

😂the white version 

That reminded me of try to use baking soda with fibre glass brush. That might have an affect. But if the rust is deeper, it could maybe be removed on a sand block. 

 

 

Posted

wd40 is ok on rusty screws, pb blaster is better. It's at the auto parts store. 

coke has a little bit of phosphoric acid in it but it probably can't penetrate anything oily. 

evaporust can remove the rust from steel and iron pretty efficiently but it seems that it can harm carbon steel parts, so i wouldn't put anything in it that wasn't already rusty. I've seen it remove rust stains from plates and bridges and i've seen it remove some of the plating off of plates and bridges after too much exposure. Use with care i guess. 

Posted

The biggest problem with removing rust is that because watch parts are quite small and often very thin, once the rust has been removed, either chemically or mechanically there is often very little of the original part left or what is left is so physically weakened that it soon fails in use.

In the end it's probably "best practice" to replace all rusty parts.

Easier said than done I know 😃

  • Like 1
  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, I am working on an older Valjoux Chrono. It doesn't have a stamp on the movement anywhere but I believe it is a Valjoux 72. I installed the train of wheels and they will not turn. The problem appears to be the 4th wheel and the escape wheel are not interfacing correctly. I had to replace both of these parts as the pivots were broken on each. I sourced genuine Valjoux/ETA replacements. I think the problem is with the escape wheel as all the wheels turn perfectly if I remove just the escape wheel.  My question to those with more Valjoux experience is am I mistaken? Is this some other model altogether and I have the wrong part or parts?    
    • I would remove the wheels, check for damage and if not damaged, clean. 
    • Thanks for the replies! Here's a photo of the front of the clock and a GIF animation of the movement (exposed by removing the black cap in the centre of the clock). You can see the behaviour of the gears. It's a fairly valuable clock from the 80s (Braun ABW 35). I'm not sure if replacing the movement would diminish the value, so I'd prefer to keep the original parts if it's easy to fix. But since the movement itself is pretty generic, I guess, maybe replacing it wouldn't make any difference with regard to the value of the clock? Or would it? I suppose the value is mostly in the design.
    • Well, my fundamental stance is that I want to go in and out without leaving any trace other than a shining, perfectly running movement. So, no scratchings on the inside of the case back lid, no marred screws, no debris, no fingerprints, and so on. That is, my goal is to make it impossible for the FBI to track me down. As a professional, I suppose you might want to keep track of returning watches, but as @JohnR725 mentioned, we can keep detailed computer records without marking the watch at all. That may not be true for every watch, but luxury and COSC-certified movements do have unique numbers. John also says it’s best to leave no sign you were ever there, and I couldn't agree more. Now, suppose the Sea-Dweller I'm working on is one day scrapped, and you want to sell the case-back separately (perhaps the case was destroyed in a plane crash). Then the scribbles on the inside no longer reflect the current movement inside the case. Also, the engraving will likely halve the market value of the case back. It had been "sleeping" for about a week and a half. Yes, the "debris/old lubricant" theory is my hypothesis as well! It will be interesting to see what I find once I have time to start disassembling the movement.
    • I've repaired a few of these, having some success with stripping and cleaning the mechanism.  They are so cheap though, its hardly worth the effort in many cases.
×
×
  • Create New...