Jump to content

Square drive for pocket watch stem


Recommended Posts

I have a number of pocket watches that I'm working on, where can I get a square driver for actuating the stem while the movement is out of its case?

What is the name for this tool, and are they readily available?  I could probably file one out of an old screwdriver, but I'd just as soon spend a couple bucks to save me the trouble.  

It doesn't need to be a $100 Swiss-made tool

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Or maybe a watchmaker's bench key?  Are you needing to test the setting or winding function of a movement that has the female section of a two-piece stem - but not wanting to remove the other part of the stem from the case to do it?  If that's the kind of movement and case you have, then you need a bench key.  It will have a squared end, they come in different sizes, and it will interface with the socket on the watch movement and functions in place of the stem and crown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/27/2022 at 6:47 AM, KarlvonKoln said:

Or maybe a watchmaker's bench key?  Are you needing to test the setting or winding function of a movement that has the female section of a two-piece stem - but not wanting to remove the other part of the stem from the case to do it?  If that's the kind of movement and case you have, then you need a bench key.  It will have a squared end, they come in different sizes, and it will interface with the socket on the watch movement and functions in place of the stem and crown.

Yes, this is exactly what I was referring to. Thanks!  Do you know where I could possibly find one?  The only thing that turned up in my initial search are keys that have the female end for key-wind watches.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are pictures of two of mine.  I got mine from Dave's Watch Parts. But they turn up on Ebay too.  They have the different-sized squared ends.  The six-prong works for most watches from 0s to 12s. The double ended one does most 16s and 18 s.  I have a couple other double ended ones for the other odd sizes.

I don't know what else to call them other than a form of "bench key".  But these kind are just for two-piece stem sockets.

Congrats on making your own!

IMG_20220304_062403.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

They also made some that look like sleeve wrenches, and so sellers on Ebay were mis-labeling them.  But sleeve wrenches are like a tube-kind-of-key.  They take the sleeve out of a pendant tube as part of removing out the positive/male end of a two piece stem & crown.
They can also adjust the depth of the sleeve, thus adjusting the depth that the male part of the stem reaches into the female socket.  There were times when I had a pocket watch with a stem system like this, and it had issues with moving between setting and winding.  Most often, I solved it by simply adjusting the sleeve depth, which had gotten a little off over time.   

Edited by KarlvonKoln
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 2/25/2022 at 3:20 PM, kibbler said:

I have a number of pocket watches that I'm working on, where can I get a square driver for actuating the stem while the movement is out of its case?

The square drive toward you're looking for is called the bench key. Typically they'll come in sets like picture of three that I have. That will correspond to most of your American pocket watches and conveniently  they work on European watches.

Also a picture out of the Elgin school training handout of not sure what was actually called but this is the page on making your own

Then from vintage tool catalog example of a Friday at types. They also have the other type for holding onto the square of a key wind when you don't have the specific key. Then it looks like from the description some other keys must've had both one and was Mail and the other end is female which I didn't know existed.

The problem with finding these brand-new is that they're not really useful for modern watches. It's hard enough to get modern parts for modern watches let alone get tools for a vintage watches. That unfortunately means you're at the mercy of the eBay sellers who seem to think that their rare and they should be really expensive.

bench keys pocket watch.JPG

plans bench keys Elgin college.JPG

bench keys catalog P2.JPG

bench keys catalog P1.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I snagged a pair of them on ebay last week for $35, and there's a set of 4 listed right now for $70

They key words for anyone else looking is "stem wind bench key"

Here's mine - there's some pitting on the shaft, but the tool ends are in good shape:

PXL_20220308_155713433.thumb.jpg.5a909243b71e0e31cb1462ac6afd6a46.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...

Okay! "stem wind bench key" it is. I came up on the thread with the same question, what on earth tool do I get to wind uncased American stem wind movements, finding only square drive female ended keys. And today I do see plenty of sub-$30 options on ebay.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, mbwatch said:

finding only square drive female ended keys

The problem is as soon as you use the word key in relationship to timepiece like a watch or even clock you get a very specific thing which is not what you want. Then if the bench keys came out of the box there in the miscellaneous tools and that's where you'd find them and whoever selling them has no idea what those are and then not going to list them. But I do curiosity I just went through eBay looking at miscellaneous vintage tools and not very promising. I think I might've seen Two of them but they're really hard to tell the pictures and there were lots of other stuff most of which I didn't consider it worthwhile. That was the problem with a lot some of the lots have interesting things but not for the price and not because most of it is not very interesting or usable or anything else.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did find some non-watchmaker screwdrivers (regular resin handled tools) with square ends but I'm unsure if the driving ends would be long enough to reach the 8mm or so into a pocket watch, and also if they could be sufficiently demagnetized since they are explicitly manufactured to be magnetic.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, JohnR725 said:

That was the problem with a lot some of the lots have interesting things but not for the price and not because most of it is not very interesting or usable or anything else

Very true.  I have gotten a few and perhaps paid a little more than I should and later discovered some tools in the bunch that I didnt know I needed.  Hit and miss...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So I found what I believe is the setting lever screw! Am I right in thinking the screw next to the click is the correct one for the setting lever? However if it is, it doesn't fit in the hole which I believe is for it! I can get the lever to sit nicely on the stem and line up with a hole, but the screw only goes as far as the shoulder and stops. It's as though the hole is too small! The dial side has been disassembled by the way, the other wheels are in my tray
    • When faced with say a pocket watch bridge which is cracked, silver soldering to repair is often the only option (hopefully someone wasn't there before hand with soft solder). I can generally do this succesfully and tidily with a small torch and miniscule pieces of silver solder, but on parts which were mercury amalgam gilded the heat can have have a deleterious effect on the finish.   I keep wondering if there's a good way to refinish these - and despite having the needful items would rather avoid using the mercury process.   In the past for electronic work I've gold plated PCBs but this involved gold potassium cyanide solution, which also doesn't realy belong at home. I've read that there are now safer alternatives but couldn't find more detail (and importantly how similar are the results to amalgam gilding, since I wouldn't want to refinish the whole watch). Pointers would be very welcome (and yes, I know solutions containing gold won't be cheap!) Alan
    • The first one is an Unruh max stake for pushing out staffs
    • Ok so with the great answers for my previous question may I ask what these two attachments are used for. The one with the red knob is I assume used for hand setting the seconds hand? Jon      
    • According to Cousins site I need to look at document G22 as I think I need an ATGB at 304 but I cant find this size in G22 doc. The last thing I want to do is order the wrong one😳  Unless I cant see the wood for the trees 😆 I could be looking at the wrong style, I assume its classed as Round plastic Armed  https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/wide-ring-gold-atgb
×
×
  • Create New...