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Posted

So in my introduction post. I mentioned a Invictus watch that was turned down for repairs. So yesterday I looked at the watch again and found it was running sum 7 minutes per hour too fast. I think after looking around on the Internet the problem maybe the watch has been magnetised the watch is a

Invicta Grand Diver 3045 Men's Automatic Watch

 

This watch has never been opened or serviced This watch was purchased from Amazon December 2018.

Posted

Hi  The problem may well be magnetism causing the balancespring to stick the coils but this could also be due to oil /dirt/grease.  What we require is if possible some pictures of the watch its movement and a close up of the balance area and or the make/caliber number. Armed with that information the members will be able to assist you with the diagnosis and hopefully repair.      cheers

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Posted
11 hours ago, watchweasol said:

 What we require is if possible some pictures of the watch its movement

These watches use an SII (Seiko) NH35. 

11 hours ago, watchweasol said:

and a close up of the balance area 

That may not be possible for the OP, being a diver's the caseback can be quite tight, so a good holder and case opener would be required. Also, the amount of gain is huge and may rules out a simple magnetization issue, however that can be cheaply tried out by the OP buying a cheap blue box demagnetizer, without opening up the watch.
o in the end the watch should be looked by a competent professional, with the hope that if it's a simple issue as demagnetization only or e.g. the hairspring jumped out oft he regulator he will request an honest fee for repair. 

Posted

Or, you can just replace the whole movement for around $50 and call it a day. I’ve been rebuilding a LOT of these lately (got a whole pile of damaged ones to practice on) and many of them had excess oil on the balance spring causing similar issue. It’s not the kinda thing most professional watchmakers would be interested in, so if you not keen on going down the watchmaking rabbit hole then it’s more practical to replace the whole lot in one go.

Posted
On 2/19/2022 at 9:46 AM, jdm said:

hat may not be possible for the OP, being a diver's the caseback can be quite tight, so a good holder and case opener would be required. Also, the amount of

Even changing the movement will require some investment in tools, plus module cost and then it may not be economic but if its a keeper breaking even is ok.

Posted
Posted

Here is a sample  of back removers ,whether it is screwed on or a snap on back a combination the one s-1600  and the jaxa copy on the far right will remove most backs.the yellow handle and case knife  for span on's.   The movement holder of the type shown will enable a good hold on the case whilst undoing the watch there are others to be had . Look up watch tools on Ebay or Visit cousins uk  watch meterial house and look under tools.     cheers

s-l1600 (2).jpg

s-l1600 (1).jpg

s-l1600.jpg

il_1588xN.1734692543_b1td.jpg

Posted

Hello all Well I didn't need any more tools.

I have repaired my watch and it was just magnetized, It is running smoothly now 

A really big thank you for every one that gave me advise I'm now going to repair a fossil watch with a cracked glass   

Posted

Let me jump in front of the camera while the media are recording the story of the saved watch...

I have this very watch on my bench...belongs to my neighbor.  If you ever decide to open it, I suggest the three-prong back wrench because it gives more control than the two-prong one and typically this back is on pretty tight since it is a 300M diver.

Once you open it, you have to worry about water proof being compromised.  I had to go through several iterations with this one...putting it in the chamber to test and then re-coating the gasket and trying again.

Regarding magnetization...I had an ETA 2824 that I serviced the other day and it was exhibiting a similar behavior, but intermittently.  This, after a full service.  I demagnetized it and the problem went away!

Posted

I have just ordered a three prong back opener before reading your post Thanks for the great advice

 

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hello all I hope you are all doing well and not spending to much time on your hands and knees lol

 

My new toy has arrived a Timegrapher like many I bought the Weishi 1000 simple machine a bit like me. 

Also like most I don't really understand the readings I'm seeing and I hope some one will help me under stand the readings and explain when a watch needs a service other than a watch isn't running or running fast or slow 20220409_124401.thumb.jpg.a633dd77ddcf7aefe67fe3490c0c5fac.jpg20220409_124601.thumb.jpg.aff9983ac25ab1bd2551c697ccf26ec3.jpg

in my images the TG has found the beat @21600 which is correct amplitude is set to 52 deg 

it also looks like the watch is performing quite well from -1 to 0 seconds lost per day and beat error the same -1 to 0 so would I be right in saying this watch don't need anything but enjoy wearing it.

 

But what would the read out be if it needed a service?. 

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    • Hello and welcome to the fo4um. Enjoy
    • Welcome to the forum, enjoy.
    • You're asking a pretty broad question and you didn't specify the machine but yes it's simple especially if you have the right machine. The question has problems but I'll take it as it is. Is it really that simple yes especially if you have the right machine. So in the video below he's making a screw and yes it really is that simple but pay attention to the machine it is not simple at all probably wasn't cheap but it is small it will probably fit in your garage. Unfortunately wouldn't fit in my garage as it's far too cluttered up with things. In the video he talks about making a screw and pay attention to the machine. The machine has lots and lots and lots of cutters and lots of things to do lots of machining all-in-one machine conceivably one step after another all programmable. If you look at his channel lots of CNC's stuff and there are several other videos related to this machine. He goes to the factory where they talk about it and show all the other machines they make in Switzerland.  I did look up the specifications the machine I don't recall the price it's not going to cut wheels I think it has a maximum diameter around 11 mm basically it's really good for making small diameter watch parts. Then in one of the other videos he goes to a factory that used to make parts with waterpowered machinery been in business for 100 years and everything they now make is made with CNC machines including this one. What was interesting with the factory photo was that when they make some parts they can put them on a optical comparator comparator compares with whatever the reference is and the machine can be programmed to adjust its cutting to make sure everything is actually being made to specifications. Oh and then somewhere in all of this there was at least one picture of a balance staff can't have a CNC Swiss machine without making balance staffs.   It would be really nice if we had pictures of the machine. Then yes if you look at the page for wheel cutting you can enter parameters and it will generate a G code but he left out things? Notice he has a picture of a complete wheel but the G code isn't making a complete wheel it's only cutting the gear teeth I don't see whereas the program for crossing out the spokes? Typically when you see people cutting gears once the teeth are cut most the time the spokes are cut by hand. Occasionally someone will mill them out but typically not with the program which seems strange if you have CNC capability for instance one of my friends fill it used to design assembly line equipment or things to make things. So his hobby was to continue to make tools to make things like clocks. Very interesting and clever clocks but his true fund was making the machines to make the clocks. Then machine is not controlled by G code like we would typically find today as the stepping motor controller he has was made a long time ago and the individual controllers used a textbased program. So the company had a editor you could write a program to cause each the stepping motors to do something. So basically once you figure out how to cut a gear he would just change the parameters for different size gears so here's an example of a gear as you can see we have the teeth and the spokes. Then we have a picture the machine which sucks because it would've been so much nicer if I could've taken a picture when it was cutting a gears so we can see things better. Then yes there is a worm gear stepping motor indexing this is a mini lathe and the indexing is at the end of the lathe head hiding. The basic operation of this machine would be brass sheet not cut to a specific diameter size not even round mounted on the machine. Then it turns and a milling cutter will cut the diameter. Then the gear would be cut with a gear cutter. The same mill cutter for the diameter although conceivably change the size I don't know but basically the same milling for cutting the outer diameter would be used to cut the spokes. I really can't remember how he did the center hole but whatever it was was very precise.          
    • Yeah I know the site and the creator of it.  the two video clips are good examples of the quicker method and a full tear down.  the quick method will work in many cases. But not always and not for all the different movements.  I strongly suggest to not bend the four tabs as was done in the first clip.  Instead there are three tabs that insert into the top plate, Much saver way as to not break a tab.
    • I found a motor that is 3/4 hp and another that is 1.2hp. They come with speed controller. So I don’t think I would need a wiring diagram. But I sure appreciate you offering your help! Do you think 1.2 hp would be too much for a watchmaker’s lathe?
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