Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Is there any reason why brass bushings were/are used in movements? Is there some marginal benefit to using brass bushings over jewel bearings for certain applications?

I understand there may be cost savings if the pivot hole is drilled directly into the plate or bridge, but the cost saving if pressing in a brass bushing over a jewel bearing must be very marginal.

Posted

I think it's purely dollars and cents, because I can't see any advantage of using brass over rubies. But I've only seen brass jewels in pocket watches and a couple  of cheap vintage movements.

If you do come across any worn holes in the mainplates or bridges, rebushing with brass is definitely easier and cheaper than jewelling it with a ruby. I can turn a brass rod into any size bush easily, but I have about 1000 scrap jewels bought from eBay and I rarely find a suitable jewel for the one I wish to replace. And buying individual size Seitz jewels can be quite costly.

  • Like 1
Posted

Usually they're not separate brass bushings. If you look at a lot of watches they'll have an oil sink they might look like their separate but they're not.

As far as manufacturing goes you can drill a hole for a pivot or a larger hole for a jewel. But then you still have to push the julienne or mount it somehow it's additional steps. Then even at millions of jewels purchased they still have a cost which is more than a brass bushing there's more steps involved in manufacturing and putting it on the plate.

Then I still just can't quite think of any place where seen separate brass bushings? I don't suppose you have an example photograph?

One of the disadvantages of jewels? If you are importing watches in the United States not sure where that started but ended in the mid-60s we had tariffs to protect the watch industry. That meant that any watch imported in from anywhere almost would have an additional charge or possibly additional charges. Like the number of jewels bumped up the price it's why typically watches on the backside will say unregulated because regulated bumped up the price. There were some minor exceptions to this when the watch companies there were still in business in the late 50s and 60s set up manufacturing facilities on I think the virgin islands so watches were imported their finished by the companies are brought into the US as their own and that I think aloud the watch companies to avoid the tariffs on the movements. Otherwise the consumers were screwed because we had to pay a little more money for Swiss watches or anything from out of the country.

  • Like 2
Posted

There are some cases where it starts to become impractical to fit a jewel when it is in very close proximity to the edge of a bridge or plate.

Posted

I did also recently find a table for the differences in friction between steel/brass and steel/ruby, oiled/un-oiled. There isn't a huge difference.

  • Like 1
Posted
6 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

I think it's purely dollars and cents, because I can't see any advantage of using brass over rubies. But I've only seen brass jewels in pocket watches and a couple  of cheap vintage movements.

If you do come across any worn holes in the mainplates or bridges, rebushing with brass is definitely easier and cheaper than jewelling it with a ruby. I can turn a brass rod into any size bush easily, but I have about 1000 scrap jewels bought from eBay and I rarely find a suitable jewel for the one I wish to replace. And buying individual size Seitz jewels can be quite costly.

I don't have the tools to turn brass bushes. Cousins only sell brass bushes in packs of 10, which cost twice the price of jewels (sold as packs of 3).

I too bought a selection of jewels from ebay. I have found no problem in finding replacement jewels, usually for the automatic winding mechanism where brass bushes have worn out.

 

Posted
2 hours ago, mikepilk said:

I too bought a selection of jewels from ebay. I have found no problem in finding replacement jewels, usually for the automatic winding mechanism where brass bushes have worn out.

 

You have to be born under a lucky star. I don't get such luck.

Even when it comes to screws, I can go through 500 screws and not find a suitable replacement. I started making my own screws recently. 

That reminds me, I've got a bag of 1000 screws waiting to be sorted. 😥

Posted
3 hours ago, HectorLooi said:

You have to be born under a lucky star. I don't get such luck.

Even when it comes to screws, I can go through 500 screws and not find a suitable replacement. I started making my own screws recently. 

That reminds me, I've got a bag of 1000 screws waiting to be sorted. 😥

I sometimes have to enlarge the hole a touch.

Screws - I have the same problem, and as for the selection of stems I bought, I've never found a match !

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Yeah I have seen 44-56 documented for Elgin 18 size elsewhere. I have the style of gauge that's like a set of feeler gauges and I never noticed before today it is faintly stamped "Elgin". Pictured is the way I have been measuring. I am going to go to a larger jewel than the 42 that had been in there. I recently won an auction on a big set of Fitrite jewels all in the little bottles, to discover that the what's actually in the bottles bears no relation to the chart of sizes printed on the box. In most cases it seems to be all mixed so in fact I have about 24 little bottles and thousands of assorted jewels of all diameters and lengths, which is better than nothing. But since I don't have a micrometer with a table, measuring for the exact diameter will be a big job. Instead I will test a lot of them in the fork slot the same way I measure with the gauge. But this is still the next thing. I have to get the escapement to unlock first.
    • it would be nice to have the exact model of the watch the or a picture so we can see exactly what you're talking about. this is because the definition of Swiss watch could be a variety of things and it be helpful if we could see exactly the watch your dealing with then in professional watch repair at least some professionals they do pre-cleaned watches. In other words the hands and dial come off and the entire movement assembled goes through a cleaning machine sometimes I think a shorter bath perhaps so everything is nice and clean for disassembly makes it easier to look for problems. Then other professionals don't like pre-cleaning because it basically obliterates the scene of the crime. Especially when dealing with vintage watches where you're looking for metal filings and problems that may visually go away with cleaning. Then usually super sticky lubrication isn't really a problem for disassembly and typically shouldn't be a problem on a pallet fork bridge because there shouldn't be any lubrication on the bridge at all as you typically do not oil the pallet fork pivots.  
    • A few things you should find out before you can mske a decision of what to do. As Richard said, what is the crown and all of the crown components made of . Then also the stem .  The crown looks to have a steel washer that retains a gasket. So be careful with what chemicals you use to dissolve any stem adhesives or the use of heat. You might swell or melt the gasket unless you are prepared to change that also . The steel washer maybe reactive to alum. Something I've just used to dissolve a broken screw from a plate. First drilled out the centre of the screw with a 0.5mm carbide . Dipped only the section that held the broken screw in Rustins rust remover. This is 40 % phosphoric acid. 3 days and the screw remains were completely dissolved, no trace of steel in the brass threads. A black puddle left in the solution.
    • I suppose this will add to the confusion I have a roller jewel assortment. It lists out American pocket watches for Elgin 18 size and even 16 size it's a 50. But not all the various companies used 50-50 does seem to be common one company had a 51 and the smallest is 43. American parts are always interesting? Francis Elgin for mainsprings will tell you the thickness of the spring other companies will not even though the spring for the same number could come in a variety of thicknesses. But if we actually had the model number of your watch we would find it probably makes a reference that the roller jewel came in different dimensions. So overlook the parts book we find that? So it appears to be 18 and 16 size would be the same sort of the arson different catalog numbers and as I said we don't have your Mongol know which Log number were supposed to be using. Variety of materials garnered her sapphire single or double but zero mention about diameters. Then in a section of rollers in this case rollers with jewels we do get this down in the notes section Roller specifications but of course zero reference to the jewel size. I was really hoping the roller jewel assortment would give us sizes it doesn't really. But it does show a picture of how one particular roller jewel gauge is used  
    • Seems to still do it through my mobile data, I use an android phone almost exclusively, but I'll double check it. Thanks mark Strange, I'll try my laptop that utilities edge. I've been on site half hour since I got home, it hasn't done it yet. Thanks John
×
×
  • Create New...