Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've come across a movement (Seiko 6309) that has jewels that don't have oil cups in which to place oil. 

I'm seeking advice on the best way to oil the pivots - is it best to place some oil on the pivots before replacing the bridges or to try to place oil on top of the jewels?

Thank you.

IMG_20211106_182813.jpg

Posted

Hi  A touch of oil during assembly should suffice but,  also when assembled you can put a touch of oil on the Pivot head and then lift the wheel up and down to test the end shake and capilliary action will do the rest.    

Posted

Thanks @watchweasol, I may opt for the latter method as I find the train bridge rarely goes on cleanly and I would end up moving about the oiled pivots while trying to get the bridge on properly and then that oil would be everywhere except in the jewel!

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi  I too use the latter method as you rightly say the bridges don't always slot on in a oner so there is always the possibility of oil reaching parts it should   not  but both methods are permissable depending on the construction of the watch.

Posted
3 hours ago, Bonzer said:

I've come across a movement (Seiko 6309) that has jewels that don't have oil cups in which to place oil. 

I'm seeking advice on the best way to oil the pivots - is it best to place some oil on the pivots before replacing the bridges or to try to place oil on top of the jewels?

Thank you.

IMG_20211106_182813.jpg

Aren't they the jewel holes for the pallet lever arbor? I'm pretty sure they don't require oiling. 

Posted
58 minutes ago, Plato said:

Aren't they the jewel holes for the pallet lever arbor? I'm pretty sure they don't require oiling. 

They might well be, but all the other jewels are the same. I just took a photo to demonstrate what the flat jewels looked like. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Bonzer said:

They might well be, but all the other jewels are the same. I just took a photo to demonstrate what the flat jewels looked like. 

I see two jewel holes, one with a well the other without. 

Posted
11 minutes ago, Plato said:

I see two jewel holes, one with a well the other without. 

I think it's just the light. I've taken a (slightly) better photo with flash so you can see the dial side of the mainplateIMG_20211110_221040.thumb.jpg.134f5bb9fe79e56ef69bade697c831fd.jpg

Posted

Fair enough, that is odd. They can't be original to the watch. The only 'flat' stones I know of like that are from pivot gauges like this:

image.png.caf8efe67b6d755b78fe999b6625ed27.png

Posted
16 hours ago, Plato said:

Fair enough, that is odd. They can't be original to the watch. The only 'flat' stones I know of like that are from pivot gauges like this:

image.png.caf8efe67b6d755b78fe999b6625ed27.png

Strange. Perhaps the last repairer only had pivot gauge in stock and they had to raid that to make the repair 😮

Posted
On 11/11/2021 at 3:16 PM, Bonzer said:

Strange. Perhaps the last repairer only had pivot gauge in stock and they had to raid that to make the repair 😮

Many of the pivot gauges I've bought have missing jewels. 

Posted
41 minutes ago, Plato said:

Many of the pivot gauges I've bought have missing jewels. 

Now that you mention it, I was looking to buy a used gauge on eBay and noticed that most seem to have missing jewels, and despite this fact, the seller is demanding hundreds of dollars.  WT*?   I suppose if one had a drill press. a piece or flat stock of the correct thickness, and a jeweling tool, you would be better off making one.  

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 11/14/2021 at 2:12 PM, Fissile said:

Now that you mention it, I was looking to buy a used gauge on eBay and noticed that most seem to have missing jewels, and despite this fact, the seller is demanding hundreds of dollars.  WT*?   I suppose if one had a drill press. a piece or flat stock of the correct thickness, and a jeweling tool, you would be better off making one.  

I don't think you can buy the jewels without oil wells. 

×
×
  • Create New...