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Everything posted by Bonzer

  1. Thank you jdm. I was aware that Cousins sold an assortment but I wasn't sure if it might be possible to order specific sizes from somewhere - although I can see why materials houses would perhaps prefer to sell an assortment. Thanks for the links
  2. I've since managed to extract this screw. What are my chances of obtaining a replacement, do you think? The screw head is 3.4mm dia Thread LH 0.95mm dia, 1.5mm long Is there a supplier that would be able to help?
  3. Thanks, I didn't realize these screws can be LH thread too Mikrolisk confirms that ASSA is A Schild. I just need to identify the movement now. Thanks
  4. The screw was stuck in thus pocket watch arbor. Despite leaving it to soak WD40, I managed to shear off the screwhead. Is this the sort of thing alum would be good for? Also, any idea which movement this is? - it is marked as ASSA on the mainplate and the only number is a 2 stamped somewhere else. I understand that ASSA is the same as A Schild (AS) but there is no movement number 2 showing up on Ranftt.
  5. I use a x10 loupe when oiling movements. However, I find it's a real struggle when oiling the pallet stone because my eye needs to be almost on-axis with the oiler (to get the oil in the right location) but the focal length means there is not enough distance between loupe and the movement to comfortably manipulate the oiler. Other than using a microscope, what is the best method of magnification for this sort of work?
  6. What about using a cutting broach, would that work? It seems that micro-reaming tools are very expensive
  7. Back to one of the original reasons for this thread - the need for a cannon pinion to fit this watch: I obtained a movement that was very similar but not similar enough (see warning in earlier post by oldhippy 'they look the same but there is always something wrong')! The cannon pinion in this replacement movement is slightly shorter but the pinion meshes nicely with the wheels and the existing hour wheel will still work nicely. However, the diameter of the centre hole is slightly smaller than it should be to fit on the existing pinion shaft. Now, I need to use the existing shaft bec
  8. Thank you. I measured the thickness with a micrometer and the height with calipers so it should be spot on.
  9. Well, it didn't hold so I tried filing the end of the 'hook' with a triangular file. It seems it might have worked although I need to test it properly in the movement or with a pin vice. I will order a new mainspring. The existing one is 1.4 x 0.15 x 380 but I can only find a replacement that is 400mm long. Would this matter very much? The barrel is 12.3mm in diameter.
  10. I finally managed to remove the cannon pinion. I soaked in oil for a day but that didn't work so then I soaked it in WD40 and that did the trick. It appears that the steel shaft had some rust on it which must be why it didn't come off easily. On different note, do you think the hook on this barrel arbor is retrievable? To me, it doesn't look as bad as I first thought.
  11. Thanks very much! I think the hook may be way past being able to be dressed by filing but I'll have a look. The annealing process might be an obstacle to me adding a pin, but we'll see. I appreciate your help, thanks.
  12. Thanks John and oldhippy, I've left it to soak in some light machine oil that I have, rather than waste my 9010 $$$ John, please can you explain how the barrel arbor hook might be fixed?
  13. Just some 9010 or something similar?
  14. Here you go, a view from both sides...
  15. It won't budge. I haven't got a staking set but I've tried resting the bridge on a piece of metal with a hole (to accept the back of the centre pin) and then tapped the protruding pin as you show in the photo and even if I get progressively harder, the pin will not move. I think it did initially move a bit as the pin is protruding out the back of the bridge slightly more than it was originally but it won't move any more. When I said heating, I was thinking more of a soldering iron tip on the cannon pinion?
  16. I would love to know how to remove it then. Maybe by heating it? I can't get the bridge off until the cannon pinion is removed as the centre shaft has a rounded end.. a bit like a rivet. I'd like to now how to repair it although I suspect I don't have the tools to do it at the moment.
  17. In the case of the arbor, the hook has worn away and won't engage with the spring. In the case of the cannon pinion, that was my fault. I struggled to remove it from the centre wheel shaft and used too much force to lever it - and broke a leaf on the pinion Another lesson learned stupidly. In fact, the pinion is still stuck. I understand it's a tapered shaft but I cannot even knock it out by placing the centre wheel bridge over a staking block.
  18. Yes, the screw head had sheared off, no doubt someone had forgotten it was left threaded. I have the wheel, it's the screw, cannon pinion and barrel Arbor I need to make it work. The case looks very much like the pictures posted above. In fact, the chain is identical, including the key thing ( what this that for?)
  19. I have the winding wheel - I had already taken it off as the crown wheel screw was missing. See attached for keyless(Sorry about the pic - the movement was still in the case when I took this a few days ago)
  20. I think I already have the BestFit scans. Just never worked out how to use them Thanks
  21. Please could someone help me identify this movement as I need a donor movement for some parts to fix this one. The only stamps on the movement are 39306 and the number 56. It's a cylinder escapement and possibly French. The diameter of the movement is about 30.3mm Thanks!
  22. Since posting this, I think I've discovered the problem - Where the end of the hair spring is secured by a screw and clamp, the spring it was not completely horizontal. I loosened the screw and levelled the spring and it is much much better now! Thanks for your help and advice.
  23. I have a movement that has very steady timekeeping when DD but the timing is constantly fluctuating when the DU. I've noticed that when DD (accurate), I cannot see any gap between the hairspring and the regulator pins but when it is DU (fluctuating), there is a small gap between the edge of the spring and the pin. Could this be causing the fluctuation in timekeeping?
  24. Ah, thanks very much @Delgetti. I was wondering if this was the way to do it. Would you leave the jewels in so that the spring is supported whilst this is carried out? I found that the spring tends to drop into the setting without the jewel there but I also didn't want the added stress of accidently launching the jewel into outer space whilst fiddling with the spring!!
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